UKC

/ Where's Gaz?

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AP Melbourne - on 03 Jan 2018
Was just net surfing and found a few climbing vids of some of my long-lost 'babies'. Knockin', Thormen's Moth, Arch Enemies and Gaz Parry on The Spider - one of the best FFAs I [n]ever did. If you've read 'Punk in the Gym' you may recall the whole sorry tale about that one and to this day thirty odd years [they Have Been Odd] later if I had any regrets it would have to be not doing it properly.
So; where's Gaz? If anyone knows him could you please pass on my regards.
Thanks,
Andy P.
Darren Jackson - on 03 Jan 2018
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Get in touch with him yourself, Skippy?

http://www.gazparryclimbing.com
Post edited at 23:44
zv - on 04 Jan 2018
In reply to AP Melbourne:

What an amazing line. Every time I walk down Chee Dale usually to Two Tier or Embankment, I look at the spider and think "One day!" !
Chris Craggs - on 04 Jan 2018
MischaHY - on 04 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:
Get on it. Crux is F7A+ and can be teched out, Gaz does it a super powerful way. Such a class route. Pretty much goes: short 7a into F7A+ to a no hands rest, followed by a short 7b on good holds. Go for it!
Post edited at 11:01
zv - on 04 Jan 2018
In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks for the beta. If I find a keen partner, I'll get on it, need a long term project. Is the beginning now bolted? I heard before the easy beginning did not have any bolts?
MischaHY - on 04 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Pretty much, maybe take a few wires. Drop me an email and I'll write you up some specific beta for the crux if you want.
MischaHY - on 04 Jan 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Cracking shot Chris. Looks like mega conditions to be out ;-)
aln - on 04 Jan 2018
In reply to MischaHY:

> can be teched out,

What does that mean?

MischaHY - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aln:

There's a relatively static solution to the crux which involves being a little more bendy and precise but means you don't need to be quite so strong. Technical solution > Teched out.
Gaz Parry Climbing - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Hi Andy....currently in France Thanks for you comments. Great route.
Gaz Parry Climbing - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to MischaHY:

Did you do it? Great route.
MischaHY - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to Gaz Parry Climbing:

I had a bad habit of falling off the upper traverse when I was trying it a couple of years ago... >.> Still an open account for me. Brilliant route though, what a line. One to go back for when I'm in the UK again.
kristian - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to AP Melbourne:
Hi Andy. I have over the years enjoyed repeating many of your PeakLime routes and I must have rebolted most of them.
The first free accent up the front side of the buttress is quite interesting and the aid point is still to be freed.
It is certainly possible for the very tall but I felt a second elbow in the forearm would help also as the jug is beyond the 90 degree lip.
On such a big outing (for the Peak) this would feel very eliminate as the line of least resistance is so close. With a new more direct start it was possible to remove the belay and make the line go as a single pitch sport route.
I did always wonder why you left the line half done but on reading your book it became apparent why. I am sure you would have also found the easy way up if your head was in the right space and the blinkers came off.
Together Zippy and I have since crisscrossed the front of this buttress with some good and not so good routes but The Spider is the best.
aln - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to MischaHY:

Ah OK, thanks.
kristian - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

The route starts up Sirplum P1 so the first bolt was put well out of reach. If you happen to be down there without any trad gear it is quite easy to stick clip the first bolt if you solo up onto the grassy ledges. Although it is a highly regarded route on many peoples wish list you are unlikely to see anyone on it. Not sure why that is?
AP Melbourne - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to kristian:
The first free accent up the front side of the buttress is quite interesting and the aid point is still to be freed.
> I did always wonder why you left the line half done but on reading your book it became apparent why.

Hi kristian, really nice post that, ta.
Am so glad you 'got' my reason for not going back to The Spider but time was running out and I was Australia-bound and heading for some cliff they called Taipan Wall in a scruffy mountain range called The Grampians you see.
As for the remaining aid point ,,,, I did the move free [in two parts as you've read] and TBH can't understand why nobody else's eliminated it by now! I mean; heel/toe in the break, small undercling, l,o,n,g stretch to jug, loads of slack to avoid helpful tension and job's done. Stroll to the top. Best profile in't Peak as apparent in Neil Foster's brilliant sequence.
Now seriously young lad; Do I have to come back there n show you?

kristian - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to AP Melbourne:

As a semi dwarf 5.7ish I will pass on that one, but yes the challenge is still out there. But you know it's hard enough trying to get todays hotshots away from their pointless eliminate link ups at the Tor to venture more than 1 minute from the car to try something different.
I have a quality line cleaned up down cheedale that is out of my reach literally. I have offered it out to worthy contenders but they are not at all interested. Not everyone has the new routing bug that we have/had. Mark/Zip thinks I should let Steve do it but I want someone to cherish it and have a fight. Steve would do it in 5 minutes on the cleaning bolts and wobbly holds. It would then go unrepeated and forgotten for years.
AP Melbourne - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to kristian:

Steve would do it in 5 minutes on the cleaning bolts and wobbly holds. It would then go unrepeated and forgotten for years.

Am assuming you mean Steve Mac? Yeah, he's good him isn't he so you're probably right.
Dave Mac did a line in Peak Cavern I think and that place surely has some stunners to be done. How come access can't be arranged - even if it's a couple of days a week?
MischaHY - on 29 Jan 2018
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Access to Peak Cavern would be stunning - and surely interesting for any tourists?? Hum Ho. 


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