/ Where's the best Yorkshire bouldering when its ho
Looking for recommendations on bouldering locations that are good when it's really hot! Easy to moderated stuff (Font 5/6) Peak District, Lake District or somewhere in between
Thanks very much!
Parts of Shipley Glen are well sheltered
almscliff if there is a breeze but little shade
Seconded, north facing but can be midgetastic
There is a reason there’s not much information...
> Earl Crag has got to be a contender.
Where is the good easy bouldering at Earl? I live quite close but have never really got on with the place (granted, this is because it is often cold, wet and green, which is hardly a problem at the moment).
There's loads of easy stuff I used to have a go at, from the VDiffs up to English 5b tech grade problems knocking about. Font 5/6 is completely meaningless to me.
Any specific recommendations? I have lived in the area since 1995 and have been actually been able to see the crag from both my houses but have climbed on it perhaps three or four times. Mainly, that is b cause of the cold, wet, green excuses. I have done the classic routes but have never been taken with the bouldering, going instead to Almscliffe, Caley etc. With the A59 now closed indefinitely and so much dry weather it would obviously be much more convenient to go to my local crag so I'd genuinely appreciate any suggestions. I have the latest grit guides but no bouldering guides.
Earl bouldering is in the new grit guides.
High moorland stuff can be great to catch any wind going. Tree shade is another alternative but can be midgy.... Caley etc. Also Woodhouse Scar is always worth a look...nice and shady and less midges.
> Earl bouldering is in the new grit guides.
Yes. I know that. I have been bouldering on Yorkshire Grit, albeit for training rather than as a specialist or even particularly keen boulderer for 50 years and have probably been to Almscliffe, Caley, the Glen, Brimham etc literally thousands of times and sporadic visits to some more esoteric areas known only to locals. However, I have always dismissed Earl as a bag of crap - green, cold, bad landings etc etc and have not enjoyed the handful of times I have been up there in the 20-odd years I have lived here. So I was surprised to see Ex Poster suggest it as a candidate for 'Best Yorkshire Bouldering' and wondered if I had been missing some area of hidden gems, hence my request for some specific suggestions. By turning my head 45 degrees I can see the crag right now so I would be absolutely delighted if someone were to tell me I have some cracking bouldering up there virtually on my doorstep rather than needing to drive to more regular venues, especially now that the A59 landslip has made it such a tortuous journey.
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, much appreciated. Will check them out.
Everything on Barden fell is off limits at the moment due to fire risk. Some of the high moorland stuff won't be accessible for a while. Other high moorland is available though.
Thanks dunnyg. Is Barden fell any of the places previously mentioned in the thread... or somewhere else? Ie Bridestones isn't on Barden fell is it?
All the crags mentioned so far are ok, it's places a bit further north, e.g. Simons seat up to Rylstone that you need to worrry about at the moment.
It is always worth checking on https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ for any problems, saves getting all the way to a crag and finding out you can't climb.
Look for North/east facing crags to try and stay in the shade and keep an eye on the wind direction so you don't end up at a sheltered crag if you can help it. Good luck!
What grades do you boulder? I'm mainly f6A and below and its well worth the visits but in my grades not, as the old joke label goes, one of the crags that might get called " the best bouldering in Yorkshire ". Its much better at harder grades, especially 7s.
Try Thruscross Boulders as their in the woods and sheltered, some problems may be a bit dirty though so take a good brush. It can also be combined with Hood Crag just to the north which is north facing, the problems are a bit harder but can be done from standing at a lower grade.
If you are going over the lakes then I'm sure the reservoir level at Thirlmere Boulders will be low enough for you to climb the majority of the problems, there's some good one's in the grades you're after and it's not that often they're above the water line.
> What grades do you boulder?
Hard to say as I don't really boulder much these days. I've just been out today doing 6b sport but bouldering is a bit trickier to judge, especially as knackered knees make me wary of falling or even jumping very far. I have just tried to do a comparison with my Almscliffe problems and have found two Font 3s I would think twice about doing but a Font 5+ I can do in trainers and, Bless my soul, a Font 6b I can do. So I'd say Font 4s and 5s over a good landing is probably my level these days
I just had one visit to Earl Crag bouldering. We went on a dank autumn day and it looked green, damp and unlikely on arrival but we had a brilliant day at the western end. Things just dried enough as we got to them. A big team helped. My view would be get to know it: don't dismiss it.
"Where's the best Yorkshire bouldering when its hot..." Then you want a location; "Peak District, Lake District or somewhere in between".
Your geography isn't too hot even if the weather is.
The one thing more reliable than the hot weather is a touch of pedantry and sarcasm on every UKC thread.
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