UKC

/ Where's the best Yorkshire bouldering when its ho

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huwj - on 03 Jul 2018

Looking for recommendations on bouldering locations that are good when it's really hot! Easy to moderated stuff (Font 5/6) Peak District, Lake District or somewhere in between

Thanks very much!

Graham Booth on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

Parts of Shipley Glen are well sheltered 

almscliff if there is a breeze but little shade

1
Lusk - on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

Earl Crag has got to be a contender.

Earl Crag

Post edited at 14:37
Graham Booth on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to Lusk:

Seconded, north facing but can be midgetastic

mrphilipoldham - on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

Bridestones (West Yorkshire)

Lots of quality stuff here, but info on what's what is hard to come by. Plenty of pictures on here for the best lines.

Graham Booth on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

There is a reason there’s not much information...

Wiley Coyote2 on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to Lusk:

> Earl Crag has got to be a contender.

Where is the good easy bouldering at Earl? I live quite close but have never really got on with the place (granted, this is because it is often cold, wet and green, which is hardly a problem at the moment).

 

Lusk - on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to Wiley Coyote2:

There's loads of easy stuff I used to have a go at, from the VDiffs up to English 5b tech grade problems knocking about. Font 5/6 is completely meaningless to me.

1
Wiley Coyote2 on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to Lusk:

Any specific recommendations? I have lived in the area since 1995 and have been actually been able to see the crag from both my houses but have climbed on it perhaps three or four times. Mainly, that is b cause of the cold, wet, green excuses. I have done the classic routes but have never been taken with the bouldering, going instead to Almscliffe, Caley etc. With the A59 now closed indefinitely and so much dry weather it would obviously be  much more convenient to go to my local crag so I'd genuinely appreciate  any suggestions.  I have the  latest grit guides but no bouldering guides.

Offwidth - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to Wiley Coyote2:

Earl bouldering is in the new grit guides.

High moorland stuff can be great to catch any wind going. Tree shade is another alternative but can be midgy.... Caley etc.  Also Woodhouse Scar is always worth a look...nice and shady and less midges.

Wiley Coyote2 on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

> Earl bouldering is in the new grit guides.

Yes. I know that. I have been bouldering on Yorkshire Grit, albeit for training rather than as a specialist or even particularly keen boulderer for 50 years and have probably been to Almscliffe, Caley, the Glen, Brimham etc literally thousands of times and sporadic visits to  some more esoteric areas known only to locals. However, I have always dismissed Earl as a bag of crap - green, cold, bad landings etc etc and have not enjoyed the handful of times I have been up there in the 20-odd years I have lived here. So I was surprised to see Ex Poster suggest it  as a candidate for 'Best Yorkshire Bouldering' and wondered if I had been missing some area of hidden gems, hence my request for some specific suggestions. By turning my head 45 degrees I can see the crag  right now so I would be absolutely delighted if someone were to tell me I have  some cracking bouldering up there virtually on my doorstep rather than needing to drive to more regular venues, especially now that the A59 landslip has made it such a tortuous journey.

huwj - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, much appreciated. Will check them out.

 

Cheers

dunnyg - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

Everything on Barden fell is off limits at the moment due to fire risk. Some of the high moorland stuff won't be accessible for a while. Other high moorland is available though.

huwj - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to dunnyg:

Thanks dunnyg. Is Barden fell any of the places previously mentioned in the thread... or somewhere else? Ie Bridestones isn't on Barden fell is it?

Cheers

dunnyg - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

 

All the crags mentioned so far are ok, it's places a bit further north, e.g. Simons seat up to Rylstone that you need to worrry about at the moment. 
It is always worth checking on https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ for any problems, saves getting all the way to a crag and finding out you can't climb.

Look for North/east facing crags to try and stay in the shade and keep an eye on the wind direction so you don't end up at a sheltered crag if you can help it. Good luck!

Offwidth - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to Wiley Coyote2:

What grades do you boulder? I'm mainly f6A and below and its well worth the visits but in my grades not, as the old joke label goes, one of the crags that might get called " the best bouldering in Yorkshire ". Its much better at harder grades, especially 7s.

phleppy on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

Try Thruscross Boulders as their in the woods and sheltered, some problems may be a bit dirty though so take a good brush. It can also be combined with Hood Crag just to the north which is north facing, the problems are a bit harder but can be done from standing at a lower grade.

If you are going over the lakes then I'm sure the reservoir level at Thirlmere Boulders will be low enough for you to climb the majority of the problems, there's some good one's in the grades you're after and it's not that often they're above the water line.

Thruscross

Hood Crag

Thirlmere Boulders

Post edited at 13:43
Wiley Coyote2 on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

> What grades do you boulder?

Hard to say as I don't really boulder much these days. I've just been out today doing 6b sport but bouldering is a bit trickier to judge, especially as knackered knees make me wary of  falling or even jumping very far. I have just tried to do a comparison with my Almscliffe problems and have found  two  Font 3s I would think twice about doing but a Font 5+ I can do in trainers and, Bless my soul, a Font 6b I can do. So I'd say Font 4s and 5s over a good landing is probably my level these days

 

harold walmsley - on 04 Jul 2018
In reply to Wiley Coyote2:

I just had one visit to Earl Crag bouldering. We went on a dank autumn day and it looked green, damp and unlikely on arrival but we had a brilliant day at the western end. Things just dried enough as we got to them. A big team helped. My view would be get to know it: don't dismiss it.

Billhook - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to huwj:

"Where's the best Yorkshire bouldering when its hot..."  Then you want a location; "Peak District, Lake District or somewhere in between".

Your geography isn't too hot even if the weather is.

 

 

 

huwj - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to Billhook:

The one thing more reliable than the hot weather is a touch of pedantry and sarcasm on every UKC thread.


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