UKC

Off to Skye to try The Cullin Ridge next week so was wondering as I have never even looked at a guide book for Skye assuming we bagged the ridge and the weather was still good are there any classic climbs up to Hard Severe (just getting back into climbing after a lay off of several years, used to climb regularly E1/2 so have the knowledge just not the fitness) you would recommend. We will be camping in Glen Brittle and have a car. 

It's an amazing adventure but tough going. Hopefully there will still be snow patches for water otherwise you will need to drop down into one of the corries. If you got the energy after then the Cioch is the obvious one.

Skye The Cuillin SMC book covers it. I'm just back from a week there, we mostly scrambled, did Coire A Grunnda and Coire Lagan...practiced some multipitching over easier ground in lower Coire Lagan as my partner is new to trad.

The walkin to Coire Lagan from Glen Brittle is really nice, with a good path and gentle slope most of the way. Grunndha is a fair bit further and more scree and boulder fields to navigate.

Coire Lagan though is stuffed with long 3* routes on all sides. We considered doing Jeffrey's Dyke (D) on Sgurr Mhic Choinnich which looks like a fabulous line but as we can count my partner's total trad climbs on your fingers, decided to come back another time for some proper climbing.

I'm fortunate to have family on Skye but stayed several nights at Glen Brittle campsite as it's so good! 

There's a few snow patches left high up at the Northern end of the ridge, but nothing at the Southern end.

Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

Sron na Ciche

Sgùrr Alasdair Sgurr Dearg (Inaccessible Pinnacle)

At HS 4b Integrity up on Soon na Ciche is far and away best couple of pitches at the grade. Sometimes gets quoted as VS in some guides, but the gear is good all the way. Quite a long day if combined with one of the longer routes from the base of the cliff, but an approach along the terrace and the start gained via Arrow Route, V.Diff. on the slab immediately below would make a great combination.

Commando Crack (HS) is another option. Tops out just below the summit of Sgurr Alasdair.

That's the only combination I've done. The first overhang of Integrity (VS 4c) is a big, intimidating (even though well protected) move - I'd be generous enough to give it Mild VS - then a lot easier: sustained S, with a couple of slightly harder patches, IIRC.

Added note: I see that a sizeable majority of UKCers who've done it agree that it's Mild VS.

Two great classic days out from Glen Brittle are

1. Cioch Direct or Cioch West on Sron na Ciche, finishing with the scramble out onto the Cioch itself - very atmospheric and photogenic. If you want to spend the day on Sron na Ciche there is a good choice of easy routes under E1. Beware of loose rock in some places.

2. Traverse of a section of the main ridge itself incorporating Sgurr Alaistair (actually just off the Main Ridge), and also taking in the Inaccessible Pinnacle traverse going up the West Ridge and Descending the East Ridge. (This is actually the opposite direction when approaching along the Main Ridge from Alaistair. But you can easily overcome this by just walking along the base of the pinnacle.  Alternatively if you are a purist and want to maintain direction, you can ascend the East Ridge and ab down the the West Ridge!)

Yes, a superb route which could be added to the Cioch West/Arrow Route/Integrity link up pretty conveniently.

I'm with them.

Sron a Ciche link-up followed by a round of Coire Lagan.