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Have had a year packed with airtime, partially through going for routes when they were wet, partially through floundering and making mistakes. And partially through being generally weak and crap.
Interested to know which other routes people have fallen off! And if there's routes that crop up commonly in this thread.
My list...
The Strand (E2 5b)
Brimstone (E2 5c)
Bluter Groove (E3 6b)
Holloway/Crocadillo (E2 5b)
Comes the Dervish (E3 5c)
Pull My Daisy (E2 5c)
Grond (E2 5b)
Space Invaders (E2 5c)
The Monster Kitten (E1 5c)
and finally The Genie (V 7)
Is Goose Creature on the slate a trad or underbolted sport route...?
Post edited at 16:30
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In reply to JackM92:
Was my last trad fall, but not this year. I did however manage to fall off a 6a sport route, which iirc was a first.
If you fell off & were ok, then you fell off the bit that's a very short 6b+ sport route. As opposed to the bits that are E1 5a.
> Pull My Daisy (E2 5c)
Was my last trad fall, but not this year. I did however manage to fall off a 6a sport route, which iirc was a first.
> Is Goose Creature on the slate a trad or underbolted sport route...?
If you fell off & were ok, then you fell off the bit that's a very short 6b+ sport route. As opposed to the bits that are E1 5a.
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In reply to JackM92:
Quite a few. I took a fair lob off the top pitch of Gogarth, probably my longest lead fall - it was quite exhilarating.
If you aint falling you aint trying hard enough
Edit:
I like that you have fallen off a few E2/E3's since thats what im working towards for 2018 - not the falling off bit though :P
Quite a few. I took a fair lob off the top pitch of Gogarth, probably my longest lead fall - it was quite exhilarating.
If you aint falling you aint trying hard enough
Edit:
I like that you have fallen off a few E2/E3's since thats what im working towards for 2018 - not the falling off bit though :P
Post edited at 16:46
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1
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In reply to JackM92:
Regent Street (E2 5c) on no less then 3 separate occasions and
Two Sunspots (E2 5c)
Proper falls mind none of this slumping onto the rope nonsense!
Regent Street (E2 5c) on no less then 3 separate occasions and
Two Sunspots (E2 5c)
Proper falls mind none of this slumping onto the rope nonsense!
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1
In reply to J Whittaker:
Came pretty close to taking a massive whipper on Gogarth, got very pumped and just went for it.
Tried to lead routes I knew were hard and awkward, rather than cherry picking soft ones for the grade tick. Onsighted 4/7 E3's that I tried, seemed a big step up from E2's though.
Came pretty close to taking a massive whipper on Gogarth, got very pumped and just went for it.
Tried to lead routes I knew were hard and awkward, rather than cherry picking soft ones for the grade tick. Onsighted 4/7 E3's that I tried, seemed a big step up from E2's though.
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In reply to J Whittaker:
Were you on route? It's quite easy to take the last pitch of Devotee by mistake. I did.
And presumably you fell off the well-protected bit of Pull My Daisy, rather then the exciting bit?
> Quite a few. I took a fair lob off the top pitch of Gogarth, probably my longest lead fall - it was quite exhilarating.
Were you on route? It's quite easy to take the last pitch of Devotee by mistake. I did.
And presumably you fell off the well-protected bit of Pull My Daisy, rather then the exciting bit?
Post edited at 18:25
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
I think the last pitch of Gogarth is harder than the last pitch of Devotee.
I think the last pitch of Gogarth is harder than the last pitch of Devotee.
1
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In reply to JackM92:
Off the top of my head this year I have fallen off:
Stroof (E1 5c)
Less Than Zero (E3 5c)
Knightsbridge (E2 5c)
Goose Creature (E3 6a)
Off the top of my head this year I have fallen off:
Stroof (E1 5c)
Less Than Zero (E3 5c)
Knightsbridge (E2 5c)
Goose Creature (E3 6a)
In reply to JackM92:
Took my first proper lead falls this year, so a year of good progress. A few decent falls on sport, even that is new for me.
On trad
Knightsbridge (E2 5c) a big wipper onto a number 1 wire. Twice!
The Vice (E1 5b)
Embankment 3 (E1 5b)
What I discovered this year is that if you actually try hard and realise that falling off is absolutely inevitable it's not scary, getting pumped and thinking you might fall off or might not, is.
Took my first proper lead falls this year, so a year of good progress. A few decent falls on sport, even that is new for me.
On trad
Knightsbridge (E2 5c) a big wipper onto a number 1 wire. Twice!
The Vice (E1 5b)
Embankment 3 (E1 5b)
What I discovered this year is that if you actually try hard and realise that falling off is absolutely inevitable it's not scary, getting pumped and thinking you might fall off or might not, is.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
I wouldn't know, I never did the top pitch of Gogarth!
As I recall, Gogarth and and Devotee were respectively HVS and E2 at the time though.
*Edit: the description for the last pitch of Gogarth on the database here sounds even more like the top of Devotee than the description I was following. Perhaps nobody does the original finish now?
> I think the last pitch of Gogarth is harder than the last pitch of Devotee.
I wouldn't know, I never did the top pitch of Gogarth!
As I recall, Gogarth and and Devotee were respectively HVS and E2 at the time though.
*Edit: the description for the last pitch of Gogarth on the database here sounds even more like the top of Devotee than the description I was following. Perhaps nobody does the original finish now?
Post edited at 20:13
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I think it's quite obvious which route is which. The problem with Gogarth is that the top pitch is much harder than any of the other pitches. You get some gear on the traverse and then when you head up to the groove it draws you in and the gear is poor, tough for E1.
Devotee top pitch is better to protect and if you can jam and have a positive approach its soft for E2.
I think it's quite obvious which route is which. The problem with Gogarth is that the top pitch is much harder than any of the other pitches. You get some gear on the traverse and then when you head up to the groove it draws you in and the gear is poor, tough for E1.
Devotee top pitch is better to protect and if you can jam and have a positive approach its soft for E2.
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In reply to J Whittaker:
Maybe. But there is another way of looking at it - If you are falling you aint trying hard enough
> If you aint falling you aint trying hard enough
Maybe. But there is another way of looking at it - If you are falling you aint trying hard enough
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In reply to profitofdoom:
Personally I tend to find I actually try very hard indeed when struggling above trad gear!
Personally I tend to find I actually try very hard indeed when struggling above trad gear!
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
It is an utterly desperate move! But only 2 hard moves on the route, both next to bolts.
It is an utterly desperate move! But only 2 hard moves on the route, both next to bolts.
In reply to JackM92:
Ha, I fell off Space Invaders (E2 5c) this year too. Quite a hard/thin move going above your gear. Feels quite easy to slip off. Depressingly, after many up and downs to work out, I actually did it first go, then slowly toppled off backwards like a punter, trying to stuff my fat fingers into the pocket. 5b is a joke.
Ha, I fell off Space Invaders (E2 5c) this year too. Quite a hard/thin move going above your gear. Feels quite easy to slip off. Depressingly, after many up and downs to work out, I actually did it first go, then slowly toppled off backwards like a punter, trying to stuff my fat fingers into the pocket. 5b is a joke.
Post edited at 10:10
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In reply to Spengler:
Strapadictomy at froggat
The wow wow in australia
Valor at tremadog
Strapadictomy at froggat
The wow wow in australia
Valor at tremadog
Post edited at 10:17
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In reply to JackM92:
Sharkbait (E5 6b)at Aillaide, dropping the pretty much the last move before the rest
Behemoth (E5 6b) at Water cum Jolly, also dropping it pretty much the last move before the rest
Strangely there have been few (trad) falls other than that: 2017 has been a good year for lucking my way up routes in/around my limit. That said, for those over my limit (Master's Edge and Dalriada) - which arguably I should have fallen from - I 'resorted' to a top rope (although this is something I am completely happy with).
Sharkbait (E5 6b)at Aillaide, dropping the pretty much the last move before the rest
Behemoth (E5 6b) at Water cum Jolly, also dropping it pretty much the last move before the rest
Strangely there have been few (trad) falls other than that: 2017 has been a good year for lucking my way up routes in/around my limit. That said, for those over my limit (Master's Edge and Dalriada) - which arguably I should have fallen from - I 'resorted' to a top rope (although this is something I am completely happy with).
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In reply to JackM
Time for Tea (E3 5c) down climbing off tea for two
Celestial Inferno (E4 6a) missed the jug
Auto da Fe (E4 6a)
Tippler Direct (E3 6a) pumped to the point of not even being able to hold a quick draw, hit my belayer and got slight whiplash
Quietus (E2 5c) oo that move! Nearly but not quiet
Knightsbridge (E2 5c) bloody wind!
Gates of Mordor (E3 5c) those pesky slopers!
Post edited at 11:56
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In reply to JackM92:
Embarrassingly I fell off Mutiny Crack. After the hard for the grade start bit. Lord knows why, it was a bit wet and I was knackered from some gear fiddling.
I'll never live that down.
Embarrassingly I fell off Mutiny Crack. After the hard for the grade start bit. Lord knows why, it was a bit wet and I was knackered from some gear fiddling.
I'll never live that down.
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In reply to JackM92:
Downes' Crack (VS 5a) - Injured my heel and a load of tendons in the process, things are improving again now though
The Bludgeon (E1 5b) - Just couldn't see the move.
The Indy 500 (E1 5b) - Downclimbing having decided I couldn't see where to get gear in and my head wasn't in it, would probably have been easier doing that than fighting up the bail out option of Hot Rod (VS 4c)!
Downes' Crack (VS 5a) - Injured my heel and a load of tendons in the process, things are improving again now though
The Bludgeon (E1 5b) - Just couldn't see the move.
The Indy 500 (E1 5b) - Downclimbing having decided I couldn't see where to get gear in and my head wasn't in it, would probably have been easier doing that than fighting up the bail out option of Hot Rod (VS 4c)!
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In reply to JackM92:
Good thread. Not done that many routes (quality not quantity) by had a few falls.
Gritstone Gorilla E3, Great Orme - hadn’t fallen off an E3 for years but this one got me on the pumpy crux, the only excuse was it was after a day’s sport climbing.
Flakey Wall E4, High Tor - messed up the top crux.
Supersonic E5, High Tor - it was almost in the bag but a foot popped out of a pocket while I was searching for a decent handhold.
Tangerine Dream E4, Pembroke - my excuse is that it was damp but not sure I’d have onsighted it in good conditions as the crux is quite hard and not very obvious. Pinged off he crux a few times before figuring out the sequence.
Mammoth E5, Gogarth Main Cliff - a monster of a route in a very traditional style, this beast mauled my hands so badly the scars took a couple of weeks to heal, while my ego got badly bruised as I took multiple wingers all through the crux section. One to do again, may be...
Hunger E5, Gogarth Main Cliff - the bottom crux is nails so took a few small falls before figuring out how to use the desperate pinches.
All falls were safe and good fun.
Good thread. Not done that many routes (quality not quantity) by had a few falls.
Gritstone Gorilla E3, Great Orme - hadn’t fallen off an E3 for years but this one got me on the pumpy crux, the only excuse was it was after a day’s sport climbing.
Flakey Wall E4, High Tor - messed up the top crux.
Supersonic E5, High Tor - it was almost in the bag but a foot popped out of a pocket while I was searching for a decent handhold.
Tangerine Dream E4, Pembroke - my excuse is that it was damp but not sure I’d have onsighted it in good conditions as the crux is quite hard and not very obvious. Pinged off he crux a few times before figuring out the sequence.
Mammoth E5, Gogarth Main Cliff - a monster of a route in a very traditional style, this beast mauled my hands so badly the scars took a couple of weeks to heal, while my ego got badly bruised as I took multiple wingers all through the crux section. One to do again, may be...
Hunger E5, Gogarth Main Cliff - the bottom crux is nails so took a few small falls before figuring out how to use the desperate pinches.
All falls were safe and good fun.
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In reply to JackM92:
I had quite a few small falls / slumps onto the gear, but only one big whipper this year trying to onsight this bad boy:
Whoremoans (E6 6b)
It left me bruised and battered, and I succumbed to top-roping it on the return visit before leading it.
I had quite a few small falls / slumps onto the gear, but only one big whipper this year trying to onsight this bad boy:
Whoremoans (E6 6b)
It left me bruised and battered, and I succumbed to top-roping it on the return visit before leading it.
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In reply to Misha:
That's a good list Misha.
I haven't done Gritstone Gorilla, but know a few (very) strong folk that have failed on it. I've done the rest, all on sight apart from Mammoth, which I did ground-up after falling from just above that weird pocket.
Funnily enough when I came around to doing Mammoth Direct years later all I could remember was that weird pocket, but I couldn't remember what I actually did with it - or anything else of use like the moves/gear/where it went etc... I remember getting through all of the hard stuff lower down and being so pumped I thought I was going to fall out of the rest. The 4b moves above felt pretty traumatic as a result....
That's a good list Misha.
I haven't done Gritstone Gorilla, but know a few (very) strong folk that have failed on it. I've done the rest, all on sight apart from Mammoth, which I did ground-up after falling from just above that weird pocket.
Funnily enough when I came around to doing Mammoth Direct years later all I could remember was that weird pocket, but I couldn't remember what I actually did with it - or anything else of use like the moves/gear/where it went etc... I remember getting through all of the hard stuff lower down and being so pumped I thought I was going to fall out of the rest. The 4b moves above felt pretty traumatic as a result....
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In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
If you didn’t onsight Mammoth, that makes me feel a bit less like a numpty
If you didn’t onsight Mammoth, that makes me feel a bit less like a numpty
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In reply to JackM92:
Came off High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) - in July. Ground fall. Literally my second trad leader fall, and my second trip to the MIU :-/ Physically I was only out of action for two weeks, but it was a pretty slow autumn because of it.
Had slow-motion slips off Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a) and English Overhang (VS 4c) (trying not to use the 'creaking flake'), but these are the only trad falls I've ever had where the gear has held. Really looking forward to taking a proper whipper and actually being caught - would really help to get it into my head that the gear sometimes works! (I wonder if there's a way to take a practice fall onto trad gear, maybe while backed up to a slack top-rope...?)
Came off High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) - in July. Ground fall. Literally my second trad leader fall, and my second trip to the MIU :-/ Physically I was only out of action for two weeks, but it was a pretty slow autumn because of it.
Had slow-motion slips off Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a) and English Overhang (VS 4c) (trying not to use the 'creaking flake'), but these are the only trad falls I've ever had where the gear has held. Really looking forward to taking a proper whipper and actually being caught - would really help to get it into my head that the gear sometimes works! (I wonder if there's a way to take a practice fall onto trad gear, maybe while backed up to a slack top-rope...?)
Post edited at 21:43
In reply to BlueTotem:
Not from the crux, I hope.
> Came off High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) - in July. Ground fall.
Not from the crux, I hope.
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In reply to JackM92:
Orange Robe Burning (E6 6b) Put in a big effort, upping and downing but fell fingers an inch from the good hold at the end of the hard climbing. Great one fully going for it!
Autobahn (E5 6b) Was really hot and I took a few falls on the low crux
The Pulsebeat (E5 6b) bad wet connies. Faffed around loads and ended up slipping off down climbing
The Golden Mile (E5 6b) got a bit scared and fell off. Next go I wS less scared but then it got harder!
Profit of Doom (E4 6b) managed to bridge up and place the cam but then was so bridged our I couldn’t move! My mate had used a sky-hook to protect getting to the cam and I didn’t fancy testing it!
Doubting Thomas (E5 6b) just plain hard! Hard to find the right holds
Scary Canary (E5 6a) fluffed the crux first go but went fine next go
The Wall of Horrors (E3 6a) my only excuse for falling off three times is that I’m totally shit at gritstone climbing!
Can’t think of any other falls but seems like it’s been quite a good year!
Orange Robe Burning (E6 6b) Put in a big effort, upping and downing but fell fingers an inch from the good hold at the end of the hard climbing. Great one fully going for it!
Autobahn (E5 6b) Was really hot and I took a few falls on the low crux
The Pulsebeat (E5 6b) bad wet connies. Faffed around loads and ended up slipping off down climbing
The Golden Mile (E5 6b) got a bit scared and fell off. Next go I wS less scared but then it got harder!
Profit of Doom (E4 6b) managed to bridge up and place the cam but then was so bridged our I couldn’t move! My mate had used a sky-hook to protect getting to the cam and I didn’t fancy testing it!
Doubting Thomas (E5 6b) just plain hard! Hard to find the right holds
Scary Canary (E5 6a) fluffed the crux first go but went fine next go
The Wall of Horrors (E3 6a) my only excuse for falling off three times is that I’m totally shit at gritstone climbing!
Can’t think of any other falls but seems like it’s been quite a good year!
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In reply to Misha:
It's really hard! I still think it'd be 50/50 if I got on it now
If you want something similarly punchy get yourself on Alien (E6 6b), it's technically a grade harder but quite similar. A rambling + easy(ish) start leads up to a slightly unfathomable crux section. Perfect for an onsight attempt, most likely (as it did in my case) leading to a ground-up effort.
It's really hard! I still think it'd be 50/50 if I got on it now
If you want something similarly punchy get yourself on Alien (E6 6b), it's technically a grade harder but quite similar. A rambling + easy(ish) start leads up to a slightly unfathomable crux section. Perfect for an onsight attempt, most likely (as it did in my case) leading to a ground-up effort.
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In reply to JackM92:
Checking through my logbook, I was very disappointed to find the only trad fall recorded was Propeller (HVS 5a) and that was when a hold snapped. Clearly not trying hard enough. Great thread, thanks.
Checking through my logbook, I was very disappointed to find the only trad fall recorded was Propeller (HVS 5a) and that was when a hold snapped. Clearly not trying hard enough. Great thread, thanks.
Post edited at 10:42
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In reply to kingholmesy:
Not something I'd be keen to fall off of at any rate! Nice work on the onsite go!
Bold as Love (E6 6b) - Trying to decided whether I'm dropping the crux on purpose because I don't want to put myself through running out the top bit or that I'm now too pants for climbing anything longer than 10 foot.
Not something I'd be keen to fall off of at any rate! Nice work on the onsite go!
Bold as Love (E6 6b) - Trying to decided whether I'm dropping the crux on purpose because I don't want to put myself through running out the top bit or that I'm now too pants for climbing anything longer than 10 foot.
In reply to JackM92:
I started the year by bottling the lovely but severely overgraded eliminate of Windows of Perfection (E5 6b) at Sennen, to be followed swiftly by falling off one of Cornwall's best kept secrets and possibly something of a sandbag, Something for the Weekend (E2 5c) - in reality, these first two routes are probably about the same grade!
Nearly everybody falls off Limestone Cowboys (E4 6b) and I was no exception but I was just glad to get on it finally.
Less of a fall, more of a terrifying capitulation. What was supposed to be a mellow day of DWS, ended up with me following Max up the eye opening unrepeated Nick Hancock North coast crack of Maxwell's Demon (E5 6b) and having to take an alarming pendulum to bypass the crux - my only real pant-filling moment of the year.
The thing I really wanted to do this year was Entropy's Jaw (E5 6b) bit it was not to be. I got into the groove okay but couldn't progress beyond there - pads so maybe doesn't count. Finally I spent my annual day falling off Toltec Twostep (E6 6c) up on the moor. Trying hard this year maybe, but possibly also a little unrealistically.
I started the year by bottling the lovely but severely overgraded eliminate of Windows of Perfection (E5 6b) at Sennen, to be followed swiftly by falling off one of Cornwall's best kept secrets and possibly something of a sandbag, Something for the Weekend (E2 5c) - in reality, these first two routes are probably about the same grade!
Nearly everybody falls off Limestone Cowboys (E4 6b) and I was no exception but I was just glad to get on it finally.
Less of a fall, more of a terrifying capitulation. What was supposed to be a mellow day of DWS, ended up with me following Max up the eye opening unrepeated Nick Hancock North coast crack of Maxwell's Demon (E5 6b) and having to take an alarming pendulum to bypass the crux - my only real pant-filling moment of the year.
The thing I really wanted to do this year was Entropy's Jaw (E5 6b) bit it was not to be. I got into the groove okay but couldn't progress beyond there - pads so maybe doesn't count. Finally I spent my annual day falling off Toltec Twostep (E6 6c) up on the moor. Trying hard this year maybe, but possibly also a little unrealistically.
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In reply to Duncan Campbell:
How was the Pulsebeat? Thought it was meant to be pretty bold so interesting that you fell off?
How was the Pulsebeat? Thought it was meant to be pretty bold so interesting that you fell off?
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Yeah it’s on the list. Remember Ferdia said she got two upside down knee bars which sounds cool. Strong line!
Yeah it’s on the list. Remember Ferdia said she got two upside down knee bars which sounds cool. Strong line!
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In reply to JackM92:
Nightmayer (E8 6c) - Fell on the headwall. One for 2018
Chemin de Fer (E5 6a) - Pumpy, hard E5, especially if you actually did it without in situ gear and placing it all on the go. No hiding places.
Class of '86 (E5 6b) - hesitated going up on the last move and tried to reverse instead but missed a foothold down climbing to the rest and winged off.
Dreams and Screams (E6 6b) - pumpsville
Psycho (E5 6b) -
Collection Plate (E7 6b) - Totally soaked and massive rack, pumped out of my tree and didn't fancy the death groove above so a wimpy slump.
Return visit needed for a couple next year, already frothing with psyche
Nightmayer (E8 6c) - Fell on the headwall. One for 2018
Chemin de Fer (E5 6a) - Pumpy, hard E5, especially if you actually did it without in situ gear and placing it all on the go. No hiding places.
Class of '86 (E5 6b) - hesitated going up on the last move and tried to reverse instead but missed a foothold down climbing to the rest and winged off.
Dreams and Screams (E6 6b) - pumpsville
Psycho (E5 6b) -
Collection Plate (E7 6b) - Totally soaked and massive rack, pumped out of my tree and didn't fancy the death groove above so a wimpy slump.
Return visit needed for a couple next year, already frothing with psyche
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In reply to all:
I'm impressed. You guys fall off more routes in a year than have ever. Way more.
I just don't try hard enough.
I'm impressed. You guys fall off more routes in a year than have ever. Way more.
I just don't try hard enough.
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In reply to JackM92:
I got some decent air miles in this season, all three were in the 7-8m range, coming off pretty much on the last move each time.
Anger and Lust, E2 5c at Pass of Ballater.
Lipp Service, HVS 5b at Rosehearty. Flipped upside-down and injured knee and foot!
Moronic Inferno, E3 5c at Reiff
I got some decent air miles in this season, all three were in the 7-8m range, coming off pretty much on the last move each time.
Anger and Lust, E2 5c at Pass of Ballater.
Lipp Service, HVS 5b at Rosehearty. Flipped upside-down and injured knee and foot!
Moronic Inferno, E3 5c at Reiff
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In reply to JackM92:
the only ones I can remember falling off were Destiny (E2 5c) Lundy. It felt nice to go back a few days later and do it properly.
And facedancing at swanage.....although that was in February so feels years ago.
Quite a restrained year for me.
the only ones I can remember falling off were Destiny (E2 5c) Lundy. It felt nice to go back a few days later and do it properly.
And facedancing at swanage.....although that was in February so feels years ago.
Quite a restrained year for me.
Post edited at 21:25
In reply to Misha:
Got loads of kit on it actually despite looking like there is non from the ground
Got loads of kit on it actually despite looking like there is non from the ground
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
There are plenty of folks who thinks it's 6b and no more - myself, I'd say a cruxy 6b+ because let's face it, lots of it is easy English 5a where you don't want to fall and a perfectly protected and hard for the grade crux. There are plenty of harder 6b+ routes out there and I've fallen off lots of them.
To the OP - it feels like a trad route to me but it's definitely a sporty sport route. I'd even suggest it's bolted perfectly.
There are plenty of folks who thinks it's 6b and no more - myself, I'd say a cruxy 6b+ because let's face it, lots of it is easy English 5a where you don't want to fall and a perfectly protected and hard for the grade crux. There are plenty of harder 6b+ routes out there and I've fallen off lots of them.
To the OP - it feels like a trad route to me but it's definitely a sporty sport route. I'd even suggest it's bolted perfectly.
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In reply to mrchewy:
Agree with you on the bolting, I really like the slate bolting, so many routes that are spicy but safe.
For me goose creature is a tad harder than 6b+, cruised a few slate sport routes at that but had a proper epic on GC. Fell off twice before doing the hard move then threaded the top and lowered off for the redpoint...then fell off at least 12 times try it again! Finally did it but was on the verge of standing on the bolt and going for the French method.
Agree with you on the bolting, I really like the slate bolting, so many routes that are spicy but safe.
For me goose creature is a tad harder than 6b+, cruised a few slate sport routes at that but had a proper epic on GC. Fell off twice before doing the hard move then threaded the top and lowered off for the redpoint...then fell off at least 12 times try it again! Finally did it but was on the verge of standing on the bolt and going for the French method.
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In reply to JackM92:
Rested on Electric Circus E2 5c at New Mills
Failed on Daydreamer (stanage) E2 6b with pads then top roped it
Fell on Appalousa Sunset E3 5c (Five Clouds) (got really scared and jumped onto side runner tbh)
Slump on Skywalker E2 5c (Aillaide) close
Rested on Liquid Courage E1 5c (Staden) in the rain
Fell of both Orpheus wall and the Keel at Birchen early season - both proper falls at least even if the routes should have been doable
Fell off Green Crack at Curbar again early season
Need to fall more rather than wimping out!
Rested on Electric Circus E2 5c at New Mills
Failed on Daydreamer (stanage) E2 6b with pads then top roped it
Fell on Appalousa Sunset E3 5c (Five Clouds) (got really scared and jumped onto side runner tbh)
Slump on Skywalker E2 5c (Aillaide) close
Rested on Liquid Courage E1 5c (Staden) in the rain
Fell of both Orpheus wall and the Keel at Birchen early season - both proper falls at least even if the routes should have been doable
Fell off Green Crack at Curbar again early season
Need to fall more rather than wimping out!
5
In reply to JackM92:
Arms Race at Avon - in the expected place. Totally pumped by the huge metal ring. Pleased to report no grabbing of ironmongery...just let go
Arms Race at Avon - in the expected place. Totally pumped by the huge metal ring. Pleased to report no grabbing of ironmongery...just let go
1
In reply to JackM92:
Fallen off a few classics this year, each with a lesson learned.
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) - I'm too short (not good enough) to reach the lip without a little spring!
Bond Street (HVS 5a) - Stick to jamming as opposed to laybacking around the niche!
Long Tall Sally (E1 5b) - Smearing doesn't work when its wet!
Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a) - As above (this lesson took a while to sink in)! Tried bridging, but couldn't get the feet to stick in the wet! Laybacked the whole think in the end, will have to come back for the face on thrutching method.
Teck Crack (E1 5c) - Teck crack is hard! Also learned that your second gets annoyed when you fall on their head for the 14th time in a row!
Fallen off a few classics this year, each with a lesson learned.
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) - I'm too short (not good enough) to reach the lip without a little spring!
Bond Street (HVS 5a) - Stick to jamming as opposed to laybacking around the niche!
Long Tall Sally (E1 5b) - Smearing doesn't work when its wet!
Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a) - As above (this lesson took a while to sink in)! Tried bridging, but couldn't get the feet to stick in the wet! Laybacked the whole think in the end, will have to come back for the face on thrutching method.
Teck Crack (E1 5c) - Teck crack is hard! Also learned that your second gets annoyed when you fall on their head for the 14th time in a row!
3
3
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
A skyhook on PoD???
> Profit of Doom (E4 6b) managed to bridge up and place the cam but then was so bridged our I couldn’t move! My mate had used a sky-hook to protect getting to the cam and I didn’t fancy testing it!
A skyhook on PoD???
Post edited at 20:39
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Alien is a notoriously difficult route to onsight, the crux moves are utterly baffling at first aquaintance. I actually don't know anyone who has managed it - although someone must have
> If you want something similarly punchy get yourself on Alien (E6 6b), it's technically a grade harder but quite similar. A rambling + easy(ish) start leads up to a slightly unfathomable crux section. Perfect for an onsight attempt, most likely (as it did in my case) leading to a ground-up effort.
Alien is a notoriously difficult route to onsight, the crux moves are utterly baffling at first aquaintance. I actually don't know anyone who has managed it - although someone must have
In reply to Goucho:
Yeah, maybe in a pocket on the right wall of the groove? Seemed suspect to me...
Yeah, maybe in a pocket on the right wall of the groove? Seemed suspect to me...
In reply to JackM92:
Well, I joined the club on Knightsbridge (E2 5c).
I then managed to mess up Billy Whizz (E2 5c) just to confirm that Grit E2s are no pushover.
Unsurprisingly, I failed on Mirage (E3 6a) followed by (another) failure on Arms Race (E4 5c) before finally getting it later in the month.
Lastly, I took a couple of decent lobs off Ceramic (E4 5c).
I should probably have pushed it more but I got on a reasonable number (for me) of E3s over the year.
Well, I joined the club on Knightsbridge (E2 5c).
I then managed to mess up Billy Whizz (E2 5c) just to confirm that Grit E2s are no pushover.
Unsurprisingly, I failed on Mirage (E3 6a) followed by (another) failure on Arms Race (E4 5c) before finally getting it later in the month.
Lastly, I took a couple of decent lobs off Ceramic (E4 5c).
I should probably have pushed it more but I got on a reasonable number (for me) of E3s over the year.
2
Ordinary route, Diff, on th idwal slabs in big boots in the rain was a bit of a surprise fall, with 10 or so grades in hand I wasn't expecting to part company with the crag, even in those conditions...
In reply to JackM92:
didn't fall off much but also didn't push hard this year.
Stroll On (E3 6a)
Moving Being (E4 6b)
Honourable mention to nearly breaking my legs on
The Sweetest Taboo (E4 6a)
didn't fall off much but also didn't push hard this year.
Stroll On (E3 6a)
Moving Being (E4 6b)
Honourable mention to nearly breaking my legs on
The Sweetest Taboo (E4 6a)
In reply to JackM92:
You were unlucky on the dervish and were trying well 'ard on the grond. You definitely had a top year for pushing yourself
You were unlucky on the dervish and were trying well 'ard on the grond. You definitely had a top year for pushing yourself
1
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
What, the placement was suspect, or the use of a skyhook on a route which has never needed one since it was first climbed 40 years ago, was suspect?
I really do f*cking despair at some of the attitudes of some climbers these days!
> Yeah, maybe in a pocket on the right wall of the groove? Seemed suspect to me...
What, the placement was suspect, or the use of a skyhook on a route which has never needed one since it was first climbed 40 years ago, was suspect?
I really do f*cking despair at some of the attitudes of some climbers these days!
1
10
In reply to tprebs:
You'd have been lucky to get away with broken legs if you'd fallen off that!
You must be a trusty belayer as I fell off most times we got out...
You'd have been lucky to get away with broken legs if you'd fallen off that!
You must be a trusty belayer as I fell off most times we got out...
1
In reply to Goucho:
The latter. I feel your dissapointment but there is no need to be quite so holier than thou. In all generations climbers do suspect things.
The latter. I feel your dissapointment but there is no need to be quite so holier than thou. In all generations climbers do suspect things.
4
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
Yep, if all of Goucho's generation hadn't fallen onto that wire slot maybe it wouldn't have blown
> In all generations climbers do suspect things.
Yep, if all of Goucho's generation hadn't fallen onto that wire slot maybe it wouldn't have blown
Post edited at 13:10
8
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
How very dare you Mr Greenwood.
I've never fallen off PoD on any of the numerous times I've done it. And I don't know anyone else from my peer group who has either ; -)
My generation were paragons of ehical virtue.
All those stories of frigging routes and then developing amnesia afterwards, the cheating, back stabbing, chipping (or over enthusiastic wire brushing as it was known), side runners never owned up to, and all the other salacious besmirching of the era of God's chosen ones, are just scurrilous jealousy and urban myth
> Yep, if all of Goucho's generation hadn't fallen onto that wire slot maybe it wouldn't have blown
How very dare you Mr Greenwood.
I've never fallen off PoD on any of the numerous times I've done it. And I don't know anyone else from my peer group who has either ; -)
My generation were paragons of ehical virtue.
All those stories of frigging routes and then developing amnesia afterwards, the cheating, back stabbing, chipping (or over enthusiastic wire brushing as it was known), side runners never owned up to, and all the other salacious besmirching of the era of God's chosen ones, are just scurrilous jealousy and urban myth
6
In reply to Goucho:
Just think of the standards you’d have reached if you adopted today’s dubious ethics! o, tempora! o, mores!
Just think of the standards you’d have reached if you adopted today’s dubious ethics! o, tempora! o, mores!
In reply to bensilvestre:
First time I did it back in either 81' or 82' (need to check diaries) I managed it onsight, and just thought it was a beautifully elegant route with exquisite moves. But I will add the caveat that it's a lot easier and more straightforward if you're a lanky 6' 2" bugger with a +10 inch ape index - especially when it comes to placing the then crucial brass offset nut
Reckon it's probably about E4 6a if you're tall, but more like E5 6b if you're short.
A classic John Allen masterpiece, and my favourite route on grit - hence my somewhat terse response to someone using a skyhook on it.
> Watched Bob hickish on sight it, looked tough!
First time I did it back in either 81' or 82' (need to check diaries) I managed it onsight, and just thought it was a beautifully elegant route with exquisite moves. But I will add the caveat that it's a lot easier and more straightforward if you're a lanky 6' 2" bugger with a +10 inch ape index - especially when it comes to placing the then crucial brass offset nut
Reckon it's probably about E4 6a if you're tall, but more like E5 6b if you're short.
A classic John Allen masterpiece, and my favourite route on grit - hence my somewhat terse response to someone using a skyhook on it.
Post edited at 15:31
1
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
Of course they do, none of us are above being a dickhead every now and then.
But when we are, we shouldn't be either surprised or offended when we get called out for it.
> The latter. I feel your dissapointment but there is no need to be quite so holier than thou. In all generations climbers do suspect things.
Of course they do, none of us are above being a dickhead every now and then.
But when we are, we shouldn't be either surprised or offended when we get called out for it.
1
3
In reply to Misha:
> Just think of the standards you’d have reached if you adopted today’s dubious ethics! o, tempora! o, mores!
In reply to JackM92:
I fell off, in my grand incompetence:
1) The Sloth (HVS 5a) (Twice) First attempt at a HVS. Went a stupid way up to the cheeseblock and got stupid pumped and scared. As well as these two falls, one of which I inverted on, there was quite a lot of hanging on gear and terrified down-climbing.
2) Roscoe's Wall (HVS 5b) Got quite scared on the traverse, plonked a crap piece of gear in, and decided, stupidly, to rest on it. The cam 'rolled' out and thus I went with it. Pendulumned into the ground, and my belayer. Did it afterwards, with a better bit of gear.
3) Pedlar's Slab (HVS 5c) Tried placing gear where none was to be found, and promptly fell off. My pile of ropes made a fortunately good pad.
4) Headless Horseman (E1 5b) Slipped on the crux when a pebble shifted under my foot. Did it fine second try.
I fell off, in my grand incompetence:
1) The Sloth (HVS 5a) (Twice) First attempt at a HVS. Went a stupid way up to the cheeseblock and got stupid pumped and scared. As well as these two falls, one of which I inverted on, there was quite a lot of hanging on gear and terrified down-climbing.
2) Roscoe's Wall (HVS 5b) Got quite scared on the traverse, plonked a crap piece of gear in, and decided, stupidly, to rest on it. The cam 'rolled' out and thus I went with it. Pendulumned into the ground, and my belayer. Did it afterwards, with a better bit of gear.
3) Pedlar's Slab (HVS 5c) Tried placing gear where none was to be found, and promptly fell off. My pile of ropes made a fortunately good pad.
4) Headless Horseman (E1 5b) Slipped on the crux when a pebble shifted under my foot. Did it fine second try.
2
Muir Wall: Muir Wall (C4)
Bailed not fell. No excuse, but I was soloing and was going too slow due to total incompetence and lack of drive. Very embarrassing. Should have taken a hammer.
Post edited at 18:55
In reply to WillRhodes:
Roscoe's is probably easier to solo as long as you've got the head for it. No hanging around placing gear. I hope your fall didn't break any more bits off it.
Roscoe's is probably easier to solo as long as you've got the head for it. No hanging around placing gear. I hope your fall didn't break any more bits off it.
1
In reply to Goucho:
Very true, just keep in mind I didn’t place the hook (although I did clip it)and I managed not to fall onto it, As I got a cam into the blown wire slot and then fell off... Good effort onsighting it! I’m a shortie and thought it felt really hard -I got bridged out but felt so stretched out I struggled to move in any way other than down!
Very true, just keep in mind I didn’t place the hook (although I did clip it)and I managed not to fall onto it, As I got a cam into the blown wire slot and then fell off... Good effort onsighting it! I’m a shortie and thought it felt really hard -I got bridged out but felt so stretched out I struggled to move in any way other than down!
In reply to Michael Hood:
Ah wait, might have been the route next to it, which I did afterwards, can’t quite remember what it’s called.
My mistake, Magic Child (HVS 5a) perhaps?
Roscoe’s came first to mind with it being a far better route
Ah wait, might have been the route next to it, which I did afterwards, can’t quite remember what it’s called.
My mistake, Magic Child (HVS 5a) perhaps?
Roscoe’s came first to mind with it being a far better route
Post edited at 23:00
In reply to JackM92: Top hold of the left finish to Resurrection, long long ride - 20m as I measured it later. Had tested the gear trying the right hand finish. That crushed my 'let's get off to a good start to the season', more of a flying start!
3
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:
> Ordinary route, Diff, on th idwal slabs in big boots in the rain was a bit of a surprise fall, with 10 or so grades in hand I wasn't expecting to part company with the crag, even in those conditions...
Have to confess I'm a bit amused by the idea of 'parting company with the crag' on the Ordinary Route on the Idwal Slabs. I can't see how there'd ever be a gap between you and the rock. Surely you'd just slither down it? ... and then just grab some jugs as you go ???
2
In reply to JackM92:
Avon Gorge. "Gonk"
Unprecedented squall hit, rock that was already polished was hilarious to behold. Foot came off, gear ripped arrived back on belay ledge, 15 meter fall. Miraculously belayer broke the headfirst fall and landed on legs, bruised knee and a ripped trouser.
Now its known affectionately as 'gorge gate'.
3
In reply to philhilo:
The pump at that point must have been disgusting! I remember just gunning it as fast as possible with a few fairly wild slaps and hoping for the best.
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