UKC

Why are comps in the summer?

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 Marmolata 20 Aug 2018

Just reading about the bouldering finale in Munich last weekend made me wonder why the comp season is in the summer? Since the comps are on plastic walls anyways and most of the indoors wouldn't it make sense to have the comps in the wintertime (on the northern hemisphere)? This way pro climbers wouldn't have to choose between working their projects and preparing for or competing at the tournaments.

1
 webbo 20 Aug 2018
In reply to Marmolata:

Clearly you are unaware that the best conditions are in the colder months.

 

2
 MischaHY 20 Aug 2018
In reply to Marmolata:

Actually they'd still have to choose because a sufficiently intense training cycle has to take place in the alternate half of the year. Training and competing is pretty much impossible and so what actually happens during comp season is maintenance of fitness/strength so as to carry good form into comps, whereas winter will be much higher intensity, with sustained periods of exhaustion so as to stimulate physical change in the body and therefore gains. 

Obviously some will fall outside of this spectrum but the majority will be following the above. 

1
 AlanLittle 20 Aug 2018
In reply to Marmolata:

Most of the bouldering world cup is April to June, Munich is the only one in the middle of the summer.

Of the regular world cup bouldering venues Munich & Vail are both outdoors, not sure offhand if any of the others are too. But quite a few of the lead ones are - Arco, Chamonix, Briançon, Imst ... (Ratho sort of)

And there aren't many major northern hemisphere venues where summer is prime projecting season anyway. (Ok, Céüse & Magic Wood)

 MischaHY 21 Aug 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

Don't forget  Ousel's Nest...

In reply to AlanLittle:

Indoor comps are the rarities.

 

Hajiochi is indoor, Kranj is indoor, Meiringen is indoor. Everything else is outdoor.

(Meiringen is early April, Kranj used to be November)

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 gravy 21 Aug 2018
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Indoors / outdoors I don't think it matters - I think the OPs question is why hold them when it's stinking hot when we all know that stinking hot conditions are sub-optimal?

I hope the answer is because the competitors are busy doing some real climbing when the conditions are actually good but I suspect not...

1
 AlanLittle 21 Aug 2018
In reply to gravy:

I fear you overestimate the OP, who appears to think stinking hot weather is the best time to be projecting outdoors 


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