UKC

Climbing at Widdop at the moment and surprised to find (suspenseful music…) bolts!

There’s a glue-in next to two old pegs on The Three Cs (VS 4c) and an expansion bolt at the top of Purgatory Buttress. Both look brand new.

Are these known about?

In reply to cheque:

Can't believe you've not had a reply to this. Anyone local willing to take these out?

In reply to cheque:

Could you confirm whether they are bolts, or peg-bolts...

In reply to Removed User: You’re probably joking but they are not those peg bolts, there’s no effort been made to make them look like anything other than what they are.

The Mystery Buttress one (I found it while climbing the route The Three Cs but there are other routes that cross that ledge) is a round-bar commercially-produced glue-in with a big ugly patch of pale grey glue around it, the Purgatory Buttress one is a standard expansion bolt with a hanger. I’ve uploaded a picture of it to my gallery on here- as I’ve put in the photo comments it looks to have been placed since it rained last as the dust from drilling the was hole still there. Before we cleaned and climbed Artificial Route there was no sign of any recent activity on the routes on that buttress though- all were filthy and unchalked.

In reply to cheque:

I was with Cheque and saw the bolts.

I'm lying in the bath and pondering the expansion bolt. It's eye is lined up for a rope towards Widdop Wall and Reservoir Dogs. For obvious reasons we didn't take much notice of wether they had been cleaned/brushed/chalked, but perhaps it had been placed to work one of these. There is the huge, car sized 'guinea pig' block on the top of the buttress which can be belayed from but it would be difficult to get your rope exactly where you want it (particularly on the Arete of Reservoir Dogs). This is absolutely not an excuse for the bolt in question, but may be the reason it's there.

The bolt on The Three C's is even stranger. Yes it's next to some pretty battered pegs but even without any of this gear, the route would only be bumped up to HVS.

For such a remote crag it seems to have had a serious kicking over the years. Artificial Route which must have over 20 chipped holds, and then the route to the left of Reservoir Dogs which looks like it was basically once a sport route!

In reply to cheque:

Just a reply to say, wtf is going on in Yorkshire???

In reply to cheque:

This is so frustrating. It should be obvious to anybody with the knowledge and gear to place these that Widdop is the last place they'd be tolerated. Now somebody with the knowledge and gear to remove them has to waste their time sorting them out.

In reply to Jon Read:

Maybe it's overspill from the limestone grid bolting that is in full swing there?

On a more serious note I find it hard to believe that someone who has enough climbing experience to be thinking about working Widdop Wall/Reservoir Dogs is ignorant enough to place bolts on historic moorland gritstone.

In reply to cheque:

I’m only in Blackshaw and would be delighted to go and remove them but lack the experience to not make a hash of it. So bloody annoying people (person!) are ok with treating special places like this.

Edit: I can nip over and remove the hanger at least. What size nut is it? (I’m ignorant to such things!)

In reply to cheque:

Any chance the bolt was highliners, abseilers or similar?

I’ve been in touch with the BMC access rep for the area. I don’t think the bolts will be there for much longer.

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Either 17 or 19 spanner. 

If it the hole is overdrilled, it is easy to hammer the bolt fully into the hole, and cover with resin. However, if the bolt isn't over drilled then it won't knock flush and you'll need to use an angle grinder to cut as close to the rock as possible. And then cover the remains with a small mound of resin. For this reason I always think it is best to cut it down first, and then knock into the hole. 

For extra neatness, once knocked flush you can use a standard DIY bolt or screw or something placed on the end of the bolt and hammer this, so that the bolt recedes deeper into the hole. Then you can get a very neat finish with the resin in the remaining hole.

Unfortunately the glue ins are harder to disguise. They need cutting as close as possible (without marking the rock - not always easy depending on placement) and covering. 

Sprinkle grit/dust over the resin for a good colour match.

In reply to cheque:

I’m here now, it’s rotating in its hole so can’t get the nut off but the hanger is loose. Only brought a couple of ring spanners so it looks like it’s staying for a few more hours at least.. my 4 year old is getting impatient 😂

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Wow, live coverage !!

In reply to jon:

Back to the studio..!

In reply to cheque:

I spoke to Accy Nez and this isn't a first occurrence. Three glue-ins were removed from the guinea pig a few years ago.

Also, I've absolutely no idea about angle grinding but if there's sparks it might be worth considering whether there's a fire risk at the moment?

In reply to Will Hunt:

Evidence of a recent fire butted up against one of the boulders behind the buttress, sadly.

In reply to jon:

Maybe it would be a good idea to actually record the process of making good and publish the video on here or the likes? It would certainly open a few eyes to A)the amount of effort it is to undo and B)the prevailing British trad ethic in these sorts of places. 

In reply to cheque:

Finally had chance to get back and take the nut and hangar off the one on top of Purgatory Buttress. Did stumble across another bolt stump dangerously sticking out 2 inches of the block at the top of Purgatory Chimney (VD).. nearly stood on it! Utter clowns whoever installed it.

In reply to cheque:

I went for a wander with the family up there on Sunday. Took a large amount of rubbish down while we were there.

Irritating to find that someone has lit fires right up against the slab on the easier side of Pickpocket. Loads of glass shattered on the landings. Took a load with us, but ran out of bags to put things in. Won't get up for another week or so.  Check your landings folks  

In reply to greg_may_:

That's a real shame - thanks for collecting what you could.

In reply to greg_may_:

I noticed this and spotted a lot of burnt wood scattered, did you do this to hide it? Thought it might have been imbeciles chucking it whilst it was still hot!

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Sadly no, the wood was "dispersed" when I arrived there as well