/ Wye Valley recommend me some routes E3-4 Sport 7b

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Jeromecooper - on 17 Jun 2017
As the title suggests.....

My partner and I have two/three days available and have never climbed in the Wye Valley. ( Although we have walked around in the rain )

Looking for recommendations in the E3-4 grade range. Are the routes generally clean? Are the pegs in reasonable conditions?
When we were wandering around in the rain last time there seemed to be some sport in the top quarry. Are these in the guide or supplement guide? Any must do routes here for the 7b climber? Or.............. would you climb somewhere else entirely?

I do have the guidebooks but not at my fingertips so looking for suggestions on here for now.

Keen for your thoughts,
Cheers, Jerome
guy xavier percival - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Jeromecooper:

When you say sport in the top Quarry do you mean Woodcroft Quarry at Wintours leap? Not a lot in the mid 7's. It is mostly stuff in the 6's. Your best option for sport is at Ban-y-gor which is close to Wintours Leap. Crawl buttress has the two best 7b's in the area. There are loads of others to go at. It is a good summer crag as it is quite shady.
As for trad the best crag for E3-4 is without doubt Symonds Yat. Loads of great routes plus easier classics.
springfall2008 - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Jeromecooper:

That's way beyond my grade, but what about Wintours leap area, sports around the Deceiver Butress:

The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver (7a)

And trad on the go-wall:


Vulture Squadron (E3 6a)
Bristoldave - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to springfall2008:
Of those I've climbed:
Kaiser wall E36a
Lundy Calling E4 5c
Heil Hitler 7a (3 pitches)
Nelson Mandela 7b
Almost me 7c

Want to do:
Strange little girl E4 5c
Hyena Cage e4 6a.

Not sure about the sport on deceiver buttress mentioned above- it's a bit adventurous (loose).
Billg - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Jeromecooper:

I agree with Guy about the sport. Unfortunately the best routes of that grade on the main wall of Ban y gor are currently banned but as he said the routes on Crawl Buttress are great. "Paladin ... " is not a great route. But there's really good trad on Wintours Leap.
E3s. Kaizer wall, Fly in the Eye, Gendarmerie (perhaps E4), and at E4 Hyena Cage, La Folie and Strange Little Girl are all really good. Fly wall's lower pitches can be vegetated but we'll worth the effort to reach the upper walls. If you are pushing yourselves Feline and Dog Eat Dog at E5 would both get E4 in other parts of the country and are superb.
Despite living 30 mins from Symonds Yat for over 15 years I've never been as it's never looked worthwhile to me, but I guess I better take a look.
pasbury on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Billg:
It's just had a bit of a clean-up too so a good time to visit.

(the yat that is)
Post edited at 12:49

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