UKC

Apart from looking through ukc crag guide are there any guidebooks that don't skimp with the selection of M-Vdiff routes.   Finding ourselves near Dartmoor for a few months and children keen to get out climbing. TIA

https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/south-west/Dartmoor/ All you need...

thanks - and it def doesn't skimp on routes in that grade band?

Its a definitive so has virtually every route in the area.

I know what you mean. I used to try and find low grade climbs on the tors when my kids were young and we were holidaying there, and found very little.

Granite climbing here tended to be bold, requiring good jamming technique, faith in friction and avoidance of lichen. It can be scary because there tends to be little in the way of good in cut holds - not good for beginners.

I haven't seen a current guide book, but I'd be surprised if there is much lower grade climbing.

It's a recurring issue for me as my climbing ability is not what it used to be! I've found some areas listed like Leigh Tor which has plenty of short very low grade routes which will suit us fine though it sounds busy so really need a book so we can find a backup plan for when we've failed to leave the house on time to park easily!  

that's what i was hoping for before I spend !

Dartmoor guide Mark mentioned is great.

    When my kids were younger they enjoyed the Dewerstone which is fairly sheltered. If not too windy then Hound Tor, Greator, Leigh Tor are great spots. 

A few suggestions of where you'll find several routes that meet your needs: Hound Tor, The Dewerstone and Sheeps Tor. Some good, easy routes near Hound Tor at Greator Rocks, too.  

Just made a quick count in the index - over 80 routes at VD or easier, but I suspect there may well be a few polished sandbags amongst them. I also spotted 4 of that very dubious, best avoided grade of HVD...

perfect - thanks so much for that info

I'd sort of echo what trangia said, but the other spin is just drop your grade a bit. Granite is a great apprenticeship and there are a reasonable amount of climbs in the easier grades, just they can often be a bit tough for the grade. However a really good learning experience that will stand you in good stead.

It would be worth reading up how to chimney climb and hand jam. Also given that the number of low grade routes that have gear and are good at each crag are quite limited you could always try and get out with someone more experienced or even god forbid top rope a few harder routes to get the hang of things. Once you get to S / HS the number of well protected routes with stars really opens up. By the time you hit HVS the routes really aren't particularly hard for the grade overall IMO compared with the lower grades anyways.  It's not a dissimilar style to grit, perhaps a tendency for less easy routes that aren't chimneys and have gear.

thanks - good advice - looking forward to taking the kids out as it's mostly for their benefit (and hopefully mine in the long run!) - not an area I've climbed, but somewhere I know very well!

In terms of learning the rock its probably a better area for bouldering. Cornwall granite is certainly a bit friendlier but still not a super easy climbing style, but the lower grade routes aren't as mean overall and they tend to be better quality with more gear.

I did some of my first climbs at Bosigran  20 something years ago, having only climbed single pitch stuff in peaks I found it hard and I was so scared I vowed never to climb again....that lasted a week! Then I climbed several times a week til other things got in the way.   But we're closer to Dartmoor than Cornwall so I'm sure we'll find somewhere from folks suggestions that will suit.

Sheeps Tor is a good bet for a choice of easier climbs and is a nice place to be with children. Can be combined with a walk around Narrator Plantation to the north. The Dewerstone has several easier climbs as well.

But avoid Slanting Crack (S 4a) ; )

Leigh Tor