In reply to JPG:
> (In reply to Alan James - UKC) I think the Edwards' bowline (as taught by the Edwards) has evolved since those diagrams were done...
I'd be interested to know what it has evolved into. There isn't much room for manoeuvre with that knot.
Other reasons that an Edwards bowline is safer, especially for sport climbing:
1) The figure of 8 is a two-part knot - you tie, then thread, then tie again. Without the second tie it is useless and there have been many accidents where people got distracted while half way through the process and then forget to tie part 2 since they subliminally thought that they had tied a knot already. The bowline is either tied or not.
2) Another reason, which is why I also use bowline for trad, is that the tail from the Edwards knot is easy to tuck away. You are left with only one (or two - trad) live ropes leading away from your harness. Having clipped a long tail into a bolt before do to confusion when in extremis, this is a good enough reason for me to favour the much cleaner knot create by the Edwards bowline without a stopper.
3) I also hate stopper knots from the time one got stuck on the lip of a roof when I went for a dynamic move.
4) Another more technical reason for an Edwards bowline is that it creates a key rope loop with a larger circumference than a figure of 8 with a stopper. The key rope loop is the loop leading directly to the live rope. If this is small then it puts greater stress on the rope. The key rope loop on a figure of 8 with stopper is only threaded by two other ropes, whereas it is threaded by three on a bowline. I actually think this reason is a bit knit-picking , and it is easy to tie a figure of 8 without a stopper, but with a thread back, that negates points 2, 3 and 4 above.
I can't really see the benefit of using a figure of eight for trad. People say about belaying on the rope loop but this doesn't seem to be an issue at all as far as I can see. The knot is still perfectly strong.
I say learn the Edwards knot and use it at all times, for all climbing - it's neater, safer, and easier to undo after loading.
Alan