UKC

/ Chamonix AD Climbs

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Denbo - on 08 Jan 2018
Going to Chamonix in late May and looking for suggestions for accessible climbs at AD grade. Appreciate any help.
teh_mark on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Denbo:

A lot will depend on conditions - best to go with a big list of potential routes, and whittle it down at the OHM once you've arrived.

You can't get much more accessible than the Cosmiques Arete, which I suspect will go in mostly any conditions. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is nearby too, and could be a good shout if the crux pitch isn't completely dry (and thus loose). To be honest, there's plenty accessible from the Midi that could suit, and can all be done in a day from and back to the valley.

The Rockfaax might be a good investment.
Denbo - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to teh_mark:

Thanks for that Mark, trying to sort out a wish list as you suggest and got "Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles Rouges: Selected Climbs" on order. I've done The  Cosmiques Arete some years ago but that is on the list since my buddy hasn't. Thanks again, Den

edprince - on 19 Jan 2018
In reply to Denbo:

Dent du Geant normal route rates very highly for me - fixed ropes up a lot of the climb giving an easier option if freeing it becomes too strenuous or time-consuming. Hits the 4000+m mark, and approach not too bad from Torino hut - or there's a great bivvy site just below the first couloir. Just fabulous situations all the way up - proper mountain day. Would recommend the panoramic lift across from the Midi - have to be fast to catch it back on the day of the climb though.

Pete Houghton - on 19 Jan 2018
In reply to edprince:

> Would recommend the panoramic lift across from the Midi - have to be fast to catch it back on the day of the climb though.

There's a mighty big "if" attached to that... Storm Eleanor ate the Panoramic the other week, bits of it are currently scattered across the Vallee Blanche. It is unlikely that they'll have fixed it by May this year.

Denbo - on 21 Jan 2018
In reply to edprince:

Hi.  Thanks for your thoughts, I've looked it up and it seems a piece of work to me, a big day and a big height. I'll put it in the wish box I think but probably never tick it, at least not this trip.

Denbo - on 21 Jan 2018
In reply to Pete Houghton:

Bet that spoiled someone's day.  Thanks for the heads up.

LakesWinter on 21 Jan 2018
In reply to Denbo:

If you're saying that the Dent du Geant looks like too big a day out then I'd suggest that you're not ready for AD routes in the Alps and you'd probably be better off and have more fun starting on some PD routes with a bit of glacier and a bit of rock ridge and moving to AD when they feel easy. Doing things like the Cosmiques Arete doesn't count - its a nice climb in an alpine setting but not really a real alpine route.


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