/ Cheddar Gorge - A good first multi pitcu climb

swifty - on 17 Apr 2018


So I have made the leap from the gym to the rock and have been climbing a sorta average level of sport climbing routes, So I am climbing 6a to 6c+.

Me and my climbing buddy want to start doing some multi pitch but want a real easy route to practice on in cheddar? This is SPORT not trad.. not that hardcore yet..

Everyone on here seems to give pretty sound advice, so let me know

ericinbristol - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to swifty:

Hi Swifty. Your easier multipitch options are limited because things Stone Cold Fever and Castles Made of Sand are out of bounds now until 1 October. 

Between now and 1 July (but not 26 may to 4 June inclusive) you can do Goats R Us (2 pitches 6b, 6b+ but can be run together as one 40 m pitch if you have a long enough rope). Bigger and better is Space Tourist in the same time window (90 m, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+). And that's all there is.

I would emphasise that access is very delicate, monitored closely and any violations will be highly visible and could result in a total ban on the South side so please please follow the rules.



trouserburp - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to ericinbristol:

You might like Sunshine at Anstey's Cove (5, 6a) not so far afield - you'll want a sling for the fence belay - and then there are a few single pitch routes in the 6s to make the day worthwhile


Post edited at 12:31
Mark Kemball - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to swifty:

I'm not really a sport climber, but I enjoyed Space Tourist (6b+) . Please note though, access is very sensitive, part of the conditions of access to the south side is that you should have 3rd party liability insurance, you may well be asked to show  evidence of this. The easiest way to get this is by joining the BMC.

Fakey Rocks - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to ericinbristol:

Actually also not permitted May 6, 7, 8.

See cheddar south UKC , download the calendar, it says it's for 2014 but u get the 2018 one..

Post edited at 15:15
ericinbristol - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Yes, sorry for the omission and thanks for that

Fakey Rocks - on 19 Apr 2018
In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Apologies , that should actually say May sat 5th, sun 6th and mon 7th.

springfall2008 - on 20 Apr 2018
In reply to swifty:

Keep in mind that for multipitch the escape is harder, so pick something within your (outdoor) grade.

You could try: Schrodinger's Cat, Earl (6b) at Woodcroft Quarry (Wintours) or another similar line, it's just 2 pitches and easy to escape the by walking off the ledge after the 1st pitch.