In reply to Timbob_jones: I found "Castle Crack" at Bowden Doors a good lead climb, really enjoyed it actually. It will be busy tomorrow though so I recommend getting tehre as early as you can. It got packed in the afternoon a few weekends ago. It will be really nice there tomorrow as teh weather should be great and it faces south
Some of the "easier" climbs I found very frustrating as the rock is very polished at teh start of many, I guess from so much use. As such I'd say some of the grading is lower than it actually is.