UKC

Hi all! Brand newbie here ????

Iv been indoor climbing (mix of top rope and bouldering) casually for about 2 years. I'd say I am at about a 5a/b grade, depends on the day really!

I have a stage 4 bunion on my left foot and stage 1 on my right foot. In the past few months Iv found climbing increasingly difficult due to the pain it causes my feet. Generally its when I spend any increased time on my toes negotiating a move etc.

A recent visit to the podiatrist banned me from wearing regular climbing shoes because of the shape (if you have bunions you'll know!) and the lovely people at my climbing centre directed me towards approach shoes which I have now purchased.

Due to the thicker soles and different shape there are some holds (mainly chippy slippy ones) I just can't use anymore. I feel like I am fighting a losing battle and am now struggling to finish even a 4b/c.

Has anyone had similar experiences and can offer some advice?? I really don't want to quit but its starting to feel like the odds are against me ????

Thanks in advance!

Em ????

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:

Move away from the slabs and walls and onto steeper climbs where the foot holds will be larger for the same grade and it should be possible to climb in clumpy approach shoes. Short of getting a pair of custom made climbing shoes you will never be able to stand on tiny footholds again.

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:

I've heard of people with similar issues who solved the problem by simply cutting a small hole in the shoe that allowed the bunion space. Perhaps this would be a good solution for you?

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:
Would those shoes that have individual toes work for climbing? I know someone with a pretty big bunion that wears them (not for climbing, just walking etc) and says they are really comfy.

In reply to Fiona Reid:

I have similar shoes ("barefoot" ones with minimal soles, but not the separate toes) which I use for walking, and my bunions appreciate it, but they'd be terrible for climbing -- they're designed to allow your toes to bend back naturally, which is exactly what you don't want if you're trying to put all of your body weight through a tiny point on the end of your shoe. Especially if you have bunions, which are going to scream loudly at that point.

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:
Not sure where you're based, but it would be worth putting on a call to Si at Mountainfeet just outside Oldham (check the website). He is extremely knowledgeable and sorted out a 20 year mountain boot problem I'd had in a one hour assessment and fitting. Well worth the 70 mile journey from my house. If anyone can help you, it'll be him.

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:

Try a pair of 5.10 Guide Tennies. They're a hybrid rock/approach shoe. You might find they don't interfere too badly with the bunions, and they're almost as good as proper rock shoes.

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:

Commiserations. Also had bunions, bent big toe, hammertoe on both feet. Recently had surgery to correct all these on the the worst foot so I can't report yet on effect but my surgeon seems to think there should be a marked improvement (worth searching past UKC posts for bunions and foot problems)....surgery for you may be worthwhile as the condition will probably still deteriorate.
Perhaps a bigger rock shoe on the bad foot would help, I believe that at least one firm (Evolve?) may supply different size shoes at 20% extra. Could contact various manufacturers. Also check with podiatrist if wearing rock shoes for just a few hours will really be bad....if they had velcro straps you could just wear them climbing and slip them off between. Some shoes could be stretchable at pressure points by your local cobbler.

In reply to MischaHY:

Seconded -- my bunions are not nearly as bad as the OP's, but I've done this on a few shoes. In some cases, I've glued a black fabric patch over the top so it doesn't look too odd.

I'd also suggest looking for shoes with as wide a toebox as you can -- I think some people have found Scarpa shoes good for particularly wide toeboxes relative to the heel? And you might also find shoes that are relatively stiff useful, so there's less force bending your toes back.

Obviously, I am not a doctor, consult with your podiatrist, etc. etc., but maybe they'd be open to negotiating and agreeing on some shoes which are more tolerable for your feet. Especially if you take them off at all available opportunities.

I think something like the Five Ten Moccasyms which a small modification would be sublimely comfy.

In reply to MischaHY:

Yeah, unlined leather's good because it'll stretch to accomodate any odd lumpy bits (I currently have Sportiva Cobras as my comfy indoor shoes).

On the other hand, both the Cobras and the Moccs have pretty soft soles, which might or might not be good for the OP -- stiffer soles can give protection against your toes being bent back, if that shoves them in a direction they object to.

I guess it's going to be quite individual depending on how much the OP's big toe joints move, in which direction, and which directions or types of pressure produce the worst pain.

Also, obviously, get the most bunion-friendly shoes you can for whenever you're *not* cramming your feet into climbing shoes.

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:

Not much advice to give but commiserations. I just googled stage 4 bunion. I have bunions too, and now can estimate these at stage 2 (left foot) and stage 1 (right foot).

I use lace up leather La Sportivas Miura. The lacing allows me to loosen around my toe area but keep it tight on the heel. As someone has already said, leather stretches.

In reply to Mrs Tetsuo:
Sportiva Mythos are a very comfy proper rock shoe. They can be narrow, but they are designed to stretch (steam and broomstick for quick stretch). My girl wears a sloppy pair for her bunion, and I have a big hole chopped in my pair on one heel for a large calcaneal prominance/post bursa (chronic). They aren't aggressive like all other rock shoes.

Also have used a chopped up Evolv Cruzer (google this to see) on my bad foot only for over a year, which climbs pretty well, and better than most clumpy approach shoes. It is a cross between a rock shoe and an approach shoe.  Very good climber, and pretty comfy and modifiable.

Rock shoes are relatively easy...My girl and my problem is trying to find, modify, and wear solid stiff mountain climbing boots, which is way harder!

But as for rock climbing...who cares about grades if you can get out and do SOMETHING even if your body isn't as good as it used to be.  Try climbing outdoors and you will see that grades are less important for the fun factor! Indoor climbing kills crumbling bodies, and without the grade incentive, doesn't offer much. Outdoors, you are just smiling all the way no matter the grade

Good luck.