Giggleswick south

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 Ahogg16 20 Apr 2013
Hi all just after some tips or advice please
i and a group of friends are Planning on going up to Giggleswick South next week to take out first outdoor sport climbing steps, we are competent indoor climbers and have lead indoors etc but want to get outdoors if the weather holds

Looking to make the most of the day so just looking for advice on which routes to have a crack on, I have Yorkshire Limestone guidebook.

any tips hints or advice is greatly appreciated

OP Ahogg16 20 Apr 2013
In reply to Tall Clare: Thanks i've downloaded it and going through it now
 Alpenglow 20 Apr 2013
In reply to Ahogg16: That was the place I went for my first outdoor lead climbing session.

Do you know how to thread the belay? If not, read the following article.

The crag is okay but in some places the rock is a little loose and the bolts are further apart that what you're used to indoors.

I could lead around 6a+/6b indoors, however when I went there the first time I found I could only lead up to 5+ ish. Start on something fairly easy 4+/5/5+ mark and see how you do there.

Routes I would recommend are as follows:
Match Play, 5+ (sector swans)
She's Not Yew, 5+ (sector swans)
Cygneture Tune, 5+ (sector swans)
Cygnet Chewer, 5+ (sector swans)
Out Of Bounds, 4 (sector golf - left of sector swans)
Kleine Scheidegg, 5 (swallow's nest - right of sector swans)
Alpiglen, 5+ (swallow's nest - right of sector swans)

Hope that helps,
If you have any more questions you're welcome to PM me


OP Ahogg16 20 Apr 2013
In reply to blackreaver: thanks very much i'll put them top of the list much appreciated.
should be ok threading threading have done a bit in NZ taught by a very experienced friend of mine but thanks for the link as well

In reply to Ahogg16:

Actually sector Swans (with the exception of the bit with Black Swan Rising on it) is one of the worst areas. The sector with all the routes named with an Eiger is worth visiting. Take the number of stars with a pinch of salt.

 Alpenglow 21 Apr 2013
In reply to Ahogg16: I did enjoy the routes in Swallow's Nest (the section where all the routes are named after the Eiger).
Sector swans isn't that bad although the rock is loose in some places (definitely wear a helmet).
The best routes are in the higher grades (e.g. Black swan rising, 6b), however I wouldn't discard the section entirely (Match play and She's not yew are worth it IMO).

OP Ahogg16 27 Apr 2013
In reply to blackreaver: thanks very much for the advice it paid dividends, 4 of us went up today (Saturday 27th April) and concentrated in Swallows nest and i agree i can also lead 6a/b indoors but taking a step back outdoors was great advice.

thanks again
 1poundSOCKS 27 Apr 2013
In reply to Ahogg16: I'd say just be a bit careful at Giggleswick, or anywhere really, there's quite a bit of loose stuff. First 2 times I climbed outside was at Giggleswick, both times I fell breaking holds. On another trip a block the size of a microwave came off one route in the Swallows Nest sector.
 spacecadetjake 30 Apr 2013
In reply to Ahogg16: Just a thought ... sight the routes before you climb. I'm a new climber and started my outdoor sport in the U.K. at Giggleswick also. I had climbed sport in Spain and Turkey before on very forgiving limestone.

A few of the routes are very hard for the grade because they can be really directional, sloppy and polished. There were a few in the low 6s which my friends who climb in the low 7s found challenging. I was dis-heartened at first but once you get into the type of climbing at Giggleswick its actually a really cool place
In reply to Ahogg16: Some nice easier 5's over on the Wilderness walls area, Puckoon, Rawhide and couple of others. Very pleasant and straightforward.

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