UKC

this randomly showed up on the front page...

sorry guys. did anyone actually *see* that it's the wrong* bit of the rope that is being tied off ? it aint gonna work like that...

*it's the bit that will be under load, you need to tie off the other bit.
provided that you actually know how to properly use your belay plate...

sorry again for being a continental smartass )

In reply to Zillas:

No need to apologise, Zillas old boy. No-one understands what you're talking about anyway.

In reply to mcdougal: propably right. ) slainte mhath mcdougal !

but, just for the record:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3295

In reply to Zillas: Ah, that's better. Looks alright as demonstrated. Are you saying that the knot should be tied using live rope while under load? Would love to see you try that. Good luck.

In reply to Zillas:

Do dheagh shlàinte to you too, mate.

Do you mean the 2 photos? They look alright to this particular bogus Scotsman!

In reply to Zillas:

Nope. That's spot on. You lock off the dead rope, and when you decide to release you are in a good position to carry on belaying.

I do exactly the same thing abseiling and if it didn't work I would now be dead.

In reply to Zillas:

Looks fine to me.


Make sure you don't partly undo the screw gate while locking/unlocking like I did once....It was still locked but that 3/4 of a turn loose got me a dirty look from my partner. True story.

In reply to needvert:

Ah! I now see that the whole thing appears 90 degrees twisted on the photo as the krab is in the rope loop and not the belay loop of the harness.
that explains my confusion - for several reasons this is not something I would do, even if it is technically safe.the method to tie off is correct of course.

shame on me, i should have given the picture a second better look.

In reply to Zillas:

Yeah...diagram would be simpler if he belayed off the belay loop.

In reply to Zillas: Why would you not belay off the rope loop? I always do this when multi-pitching.

In reply to neilwiltshire: Personally, I belay off both the belay loop and the rope loops. (I was once belaying off just the rope loops and my belay device disappeared into the void when I untied at the top.)

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Some tie in knots capsize easily when you load just the loop, FoE w/ yosemite finish comes to mind.

This mentions it:
http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com.au/2008/11/figure-eight-follow-through....

There's a video around somewhere.