/ Introductory Leads, Glasgow area?

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kbow265 - on 20 Jan 2013
Did my first lead on Neilston quarry in November, went out and tried to lead Plunge on Dumbarton rock but really struggled and ended up backing off (combination of really cold hands and feet and struggling to place gear). Any suggestions for nice Diff/VDiff leads in the lowlands/south Highlands with lots of gear placements (as this is what I want to practice)?
coinneach - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to florence58:

The Whangie or Auchenstarry as well as Neilston were where I learned the basics.

I'd leave it until the springtime though.
Nic DW - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to florence58:

Nielston is the most beginner friendly. Auchinstarry has a couple at that grade. Maybe Loudoun hill. Would urge caution on The whangie- some great rock but also some very chossy bits- requires careful judgement, so maybe best to wait until you have a bit more experience. Cant think what else to reccomend...

Limekilns in fife has a few "VS"s which are very solid and take lots of gear, and IMO would be graded severe-HS in many places. Maybe still a bit much though. There a bit steep but with good holds.

It's a bit of a shame- you've got great access to some really top stuff once you've got a bit more experience but there's limited stuff for beginners in the vicinity.

Look out for a sunny day with little wind if you want to get out this time of year without your hands freezing.
AlH - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to florence58: Second to be careful of The Whangie for loose rock. There are short options at The Quadrocks above Largs too (some easy but poorly protected- you can spot the gear on the better protected ones from the ground, and The Great Corner is a well protected Severe if you have big gear). I've taken people across to Traprain Law which is across the country near Haddington and very polished in places but it does have some well protected routes in a nice setting.
Mark Bull - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to coinneach:

Unfortunately the last round of council vandalism at Auchinstarry did a lot of damage to the best beginners routes in the car park area (Access Route, Anarchist and Tar). What is left of their upper sections is still loose and dirty and now lacking protection, though the climbing is easier.
Scream (S) is still OK.

Hawkcraig (Aberdour) has some good well protected VDiffs: Fish Head Arete, Ganja, Escalator.
james mcclung - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to florence58: hi neilston about the best for learning should try
loudoun hill its great Auchinstarry Quarry is good but only dun a few climbs there if you want to go east try Rosyth Quarry a lot at V VD S VS
and its not to high lots of gear should wait till the weather improves

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