In reply to Thelittlesthobo:
> winhill, please don't take this as an attack on the facilities my daughter gets. I am most appreciative of them. TBH I would rather not discuss specifics of her training as that's not fair. This thread could be about Glasgow, London or wherever. Its is a persons take on how youngsters are able/unable to get into a sport.
Except you're talking about a very specific area of a sport and the costs associated with it. Some parents pay £40 an hour for coaching for their kids (even working class parents) and even at that level are able to report back good value, so part of the issue is how to evaluate value in that sense.
> Dan has zero input into my daughters climbing lesson
I have no idea how it works at Eden but that's why I said guidance, I'd be surprised if it was zero as the staff share knowledge etc. Quite a few of the best coaches don't attend every single regular session, or even most of them, the point is that they are directing it.
> Whats your point?
Like I said, you've only just scratched the surface of the effort involved.
As for non-climbing parents, there are 2 examples regularly used, Sasha DiGuillan (first women to climb 9a) and brilliant youth climber used to live a 5 hour drive away from her coaching but her non-climbing mom drove her anyway. Also in the States, a review of top youth athletes found one factor that was the most common quality - they mostly came from 2 car families. I'm not suggesting that buying a wreck and leaving on the drive will boost your daughter's climbing 3 grades but rather that 2 car families had the mobility and finance to fully support their kids.
To support a kid through ages 8-18 in competitions a parent has to do a 4 hour lead belaying course costing £80, that makes climbing totally accessible and trivially easy. If a parent won't do that (or pay someone else) then their kid ain't going to be the next Adam Ondra.
I seem to remember Wayne Rooney's extended family had to support him to the tune of tens of thousands of pounds, they had a big party when he signed for Everton as a Pro because it meant they'd get their investment back. Much less accessible.
As for climbers themselves putting something back in, my kids have had free coaching sessions off a who's who in British climbing - Shauna Coxsey, Nathan Philips, Dave Barrans, Katy and Pete Whittacker, previous BBCs, TeamGB members , I bet 10 or a dozen in all and not as formal hothousing but mostly random right place right time stuff. You'd never get that accessibility like that to the top stars in football.
I was at the Bowderstone this year, walking passed it and my kids got up on it but couldn't do much in their walking boots, so I said we'd got the shoes in the car I go get them. There was a bunch of guys trying the roof round the back but I tend not to get into conversations with people in those circs, what you gonna say?
Anyway we looked at The Crack, not hard (6a?) but a bit of a highball for the kids at 6 metres, so the kids weren't happy about having no mats. The guys round the back heard this, came over and lent us a couple of mats (they had about 8, looked like a factory sale at Silentnight).
I don't tend to read the comics or keep up with celebrity climbers but one of the guys was called Jordan and I thought the only guy I knew who was good enough to repeatedly fall off an 8b roof was Jordan Buys, didn't ask him but I was indisposed when the kids wanted spotting so he jumped up to volunteer and helped take them through the problem.
I had to google an image later just to confirm it was Buys but there aren't many sports where you can go for a random walk, do a random boulder and get helped out by people operating at the very highest level. (I did once bump into Steve Chettle in the car park at B+Q but he didn't give me any football tips).
The obvious point is that there is a whole other world out there, it's just you haven't experienced it yet.