In reply to Neil Williams:
> Do you think? I disagree.
As far as indoor leading goes, over the longer term, you will only ever be a genuinely good climber (both in absolute and relative terms) if you are genuinely comfortable with falling off.
What prevents many people from achieving that is having poor experiences of falling off, especially early in their climbing career, and getting bruised/bashed or grazed.
This is also for most people a very asymmetric process. A 'poor' fall (or backing off) generally damages someone's confidence far, far more than a 'clean' fall (or successfully going for a move/clip) will boost their confidence.
That is the reasoning behind my feeling that indoor climbers are probably better avoiding leading until they are in the position to lead harder routes where they can almost always fall-off with impunity. That will hopefully mean that their initial (and on-going) experiences of falling off are all completely positive and they do not develop any mental barriers they subsequently need to work hard to overcome.
> [2] This does back up your safety point, though I wasn't injured, it just woke me up a bit.
You may disagree, but I think that sort of slightly awkward fall, whilst it may not obviously dent someone confidence about leading, it is not a positive experience and is a valid reason why overly easy routes with massive jugs on lead lines are better avoided.
> If I'm getting knackered, I enjoy a well-set easy lead
These days I don't tend to do that. I really want to avoid getting into bad habits and specifically 'backing off' moves or clips when I am leading so when I am tired I find top-roping much better for maintaining the positive 'go for it' attitude that I want to develop/maintain. If you can still lead really well when knackered, you are doing better than me.
> there's barely any point, they're too short to be worth it.
I completely agree about short (8metre) routes. In fact, in line with the whole theme of only leading when you can actively re-enforce positive performance, I don't think you gain much if any from leading on short walls. Doing 2-3 reps of short lines on top-rope is likely to be far more useful training.
HTH explains my thinking a bit more.