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New starter, totally baffled by terminology!!!!

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 iain_cbr 05 Oct 2009
I'm well and truely snookered by all the different terminology used on here. Is there a good all round beginners guide I can get my hands on? I would like to know things like:

What's the difference between sport and trad climbing?
What do the grades mean?
What gear do i need to start out?
etc, etc...

All the jargon is a bit daunting!

Thanks in advance!

Iain.
 Ridge 05 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Beat me to it!
In reply to iain_cbr:

At a jokesy level there is the classic (though very dated):

'A Glossary of Commonly Used Climbing Terms and Phrases or
The TV Armchair Guide to Mountaineering'

by Tom Patey (from his book 'One Man's Mountains')

Climbing rope -- fulfills many functions, e.g., it may be used for lassoing
projecting spikes, crossing impassible gorges or for pulling up
climbers who have lost their nerve.
A solo climber -- One man falling alone.
A roped party -- Several men falling simultaneously.
Hemp (rope) -- A rope that breaks.
Nylon (rope) -- A rope that melts.
Ice-ax or "Pick" -- An implement for chopping holds in mud or soft rock.
Piton or "Spike" -- An implement for opening tin cans (various other uses).
Knife -- Indispensable. Should be instantly attainable. One of these saved
several lives on the Matterhorn.
Snap-link -- A link that snaps.
Safety Helmet -- A safety device for climbers falling head first. If the fall
is a long one, the climber may become completely impacted into his
helmet and be telescoped into a small globular mass which can be
stowed in a rucksack (cf. mountain rescue).
A Tiger's Web -- A hopeless tangle of rope or ropes.
A Pied d'Elephant -- A special short climbing boot for climbers who have all
their toes amputated.
Leepers -- Small insects encounted on Welsh sea cliffs.
Krabs -- Another unusual hazard encountered on Welsh sea cliffs.
(if this last hazard is considerable one, Lobster Claw Crampons
are worn).
A Cow's Tail -- The fray end of an old climbing rope.
A Lay-Back -- An unusually confortable bivouac.
A Hand-Jam -- A climber with one hand caught in a crack.
A Foot-Jam -- A climber with one foot caught in a crack.
A Good-Jam -- A climber who is permanently struck in a crack.
A "Joe Brown" -- A climber with large hands who gets stuck in cracks.
Whillans -- An orange-coloured rucksack.
A Novice -- Someone (often dead) who should be kept off the mountains at
all costs.
An experienced climber -- Someone whose death was unavoidable.
An Alpine Club Member (cf. Veteran) -- Someone who never dies but slowly
fades away.
(Contrast An Alpine Veteran -- Someone who has been to the Alps.
Steeplejacks, Munich Fanatics, Dangle and Whack Merchants, or
Masters of the Sophisticated Modern Techniques - Alterative terms
(of a different vintage) for a piton climber.
A careful climber -- A slow climber.
A cautious climber -- A very slow climber.
A climbing-nut -- A reckless climber.
A running belay -- A cowardly second.
A Thread belay -- An asphyxiated second (due to a slow third man and a very
fast leader).
A Descendeur (French) -- A Term of derision. The opposite of a climber.
A psychological belay -- (Alt. usage) (1) A female second; (2) Looks like a
belay but isn't...
A Classic Route -- Much loose rock and grass.
A Direttissima -- A very long free fall or "Plunge".
A long Run-out -- A very long arrested fall.
"One of Nature's Last Strongholds" or "The Last Great Problem" --
A B.B.C. Outside Broadcasts Production.
Overhanging -- Vertical.
Vertical -- Steep.
Scrambling -- Fairly Steep.
Interesting -- Nerve-racking.
Thin -- Non-existent.
Amusing -- Die Laughing.
The Crux -- Where everyone else unties to watch the leader.
"Fissure" (French) -- A dirty, unpleasant crack.
Backing up, Straddling, Back and Knee, Back and Foot, Foot and Mouth --
Various postures adopted in Chimneys (?Derivation -- Kama Sutra).
Considerable Exposure -- No Privacy.
Free climbing -- No charge for spectators.
A Rurp -- A strenous grunt. A combination of a rift and a burp.
Abseiling -- Showing off, Pretending to Fall.
Committed (to the Route) -- Under Suspended Sentence of Death.
Peeling Off -- Undressing.
 jas wood 05 Oct 2009
In reply to iain_cbr:
well.

sport climbing is climbing using bolts as protection in case of a fall (something which sport climbers do a lot of).
trad climbers use protection from a wide range of items such as cams nuts hexes slings which basically are removed by the person following (trad climbers try to avoid falling usually !)

grades only need apply when you have been climbing a while then you will know what they indicate but for starters the tech grade 4a 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c etc refers to the technical skill required to carry out the hardest move on a climb 4a being easiest. its best not to mention the trad grading system as it would take a while and is the cause of many a debate.

to start out MOST people would get a harness shoes (comfy!)and belay plate and beg/bribe someone experienced to 'show you the ropes' :O) then the terminoligy will become clearer.

ask on here if anyone in local area is will to learn you or seek a learner course from a reputable company.

good luck :O)
In reply to EZ:

A good list, but because obviously American, a lot of UK climbing terms are missing. Just at a glance: no Krab, Stance, Thin, Thread ... It'll be interesting to see how many others people can spot that are missing.
 EZ 05 Oct 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: When I went looking for some terms I already knew the ones you mention so it didn't occur to me. Good observation.
OP iain_cbr 06 Oct 2009
Cheers to everyone who replied!

I've printed off the glossary of terms, and located 4 local crags within 5 miles of my house! I had no idea they were there!

Muchos gracias.

Iain.
 jas wood 06 Oct 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
gaston, thumb sprag, thrutching, udging, yarding are a few more
In reply to jas wood:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> gaston, thumb sprag, thrutching, udging, yarding are a few more

Well, gaston, sprag and thrutching are all in their glossary. I don't (personally) know anybody who uses the terms gaston or yarding, but a sprag, thrutch and udge are wonderful oldies that I hope will remain alive.
 standard 06 Oct 2009
The good thing about wikipedia is you can edit it.
Go ahead people.
 Joe G 06 Oct 2009
In reply to jas wood:

> gaston

Gaston - what happens to you when you spend a night in an alpine hut with 40 farting climbers to a dorm.
 Rog Wilko 06 Oct 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: My favourite in this mode was
Definition of rope - a device to ensure the leader never falls....alone.
I also quite like the use of the word entertaining - a pitch (or part of a pitch) on which it is entertaining for others to watch you.
 jas wood 06 Oct 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: one of my climbing partners is 67 yrs old and has climbed since adam was a lad and has many a tale as you would imagine (still gets up the odd e2) and his phrases have me in stitches.
"ill back hand myself" being a popular one - still not sure what it means :O)

jas
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth) My favourite in this mode was
> Definition of rope - a device to ensure the leader never falls....alone.
> I also quite like the use of the word entertaining - a pitch (or part of a pitch) on which it is entertaining for others to watch you.

My favourite Patey one is: 'Amusing' = Die laughing
 w.pettet-smith 06 Oct 2009
In reply to iain_c'Sprag
A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed.' from said wiki article. say what now? i'm confused.
spragg 06 Oct 2009
In reply to w.pettet-smith: not half as confused as I am
 Slarti B 07 Oct 2009
In reply to iain_cbr:
Get Libby Peter's book, "Rock climbing - essential skills..."

Dont think she covers Gastons but she has lots of much more useful stuff, ansers pretty much all of your questions and takes you much further. Excellent picturesdiagrams.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Essential-Skills-Techniques/dp/095415...
ranger 09 Oct 2009
In reply to jas wood:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth) one of my climbing partners is 67 yrs old and has climbed since adam was a lad and has many a tale as you would imagine (still gets up the odd e2) and his phrases have me in stitches.
> "ill back hand myself" being a popular one - still not sure what it means :O)
>
> jas

only 66
What about a threader.Only climbers of some age will know this. Stainforth will know.
OP iain_cbr 09 Oct 2009
In reply to jas wood:
> "ill back hand myself" being a popular one - still not sure what it means.

I assume it means that he'd hit himself with the back of his hand, presumably if he got something wrong!


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