UKC

Is there Sport climbing at the Roaches?
Will it say in the Guide book?
Thanks

In reply to Frankie1992:

Starting running, even now you might just make it before the hord of troll killers, defenders of trad and holier than though mob descend upon this thread in a ravaging hord.

errr actualy the Roaches has no bolted routes, probably the nearest are some of the routes at Harper Hill just outside Buxton. The BMC guidebook 'from Horseshoe to Harpur Hill' covers them.

Run! I can hear the mob coming!

In reply to Frankie1992: Get yourself and drill up there and make some....that should get the ethics brigade moving!

In reply to Frankie1992:

hahahahahahaha 0/10

In reply to Frankie1992: I feel so sorry for you...so young. What songs do you want played at your funeral?

In reply to GregChes:

Dont get it... (probably about to recieve UKC abuse!!)

In reply to Frankie1992: im amazed everyone has been civil! this much be a record for ukc.
must be as all the trad ethics brigade are utilising the clock change and out climbing!

In reply to chrisbaggy:

He's young and from the South..... both of these mean he needs 'special consideration'

In reply to Frankie1992:

Why are you interested in something so daftly out of place? You'll probably find plenty of unadventurous things to do in and around Leek.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

in his defence he may never have been to or even seen the roaches so wont know it is as daftly out of place as it actually is.....


...or he may just be trying to wind up 'Disgusted of RonHills'

In reply to Frankie1992:

Frankie, notwithstanding a certain ancient bolting incident over at Gradbach, this is pretty staunch trad climbing territory. For historical reasons too complicated to go into it would be regarded as a bit of faux pas to bolt a line at the Roaches. That said, if maximum outrage is what you are aiming for, a new line of bolts up to the peregrine nesting area should do the trick.

Limestone is where the bolts tend to go, and only then in agreed areas. As mentioned above the closest sport climbing would be at Harpur Hill, or at Blackwell Halt and the scruffier bits of Cheedale.

In reply to Frankie1992:
No

In reply to Dave Garnett:

...'the scruffier bits of Cheedale' are where the trad routes tend to be, Dave!!! Any wallabies left at the Roaches, or are they as rare as Roaches sport routes?

In reply to jon: No, the peregrines ate 'em all.

In reply to Howard J:

I saw a couple of wallabies there when I was eleven, on a school climbing trip. Just me and my mate - we'd wandered over to the left end of the upper tier and there they were. Thought they were kangaroos. Nobody believed us. Now the bleedin' peregrines have eaten 'em. Bugger.

In reply to Frankie1992: No there isn't any sport climbing at the Roaches. Just trad. Head for the limestone if you want to clip some bolts.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Funny you should mention that bolt. The was a date with destiny at the weekend. The nephew of the man (for it was a man) who placed that bolt came face-to-face with the phantom of his heredity ... and like a cyclical folk tale wished that bolt to still be there! One discete rescue later, and the phantom lives on.

In reply to Frankie1992:

Yes it will tell you in the guidebook.
Most guidebooks give advice about the accepted ethics of an area and you should gen yourself up on this beforehand. You'll get a flavour of this from the logbook pages here and on Rockfax of course.
If you really fancy the Roaches don't let the lack of sport pitches put you off. There are routes of all grades. You will need to drop down grade, perhaps signifcantly, until you are used to it. If/when you have scared yourself silly you can always trot off to the sport crags in the general area.

In reply to jon:
Now the bleedin' peregrines have eaten 'em. Bugger.

i heard that the wallabies were trying to bolt the sloth, so the ethics brigade talked the peregrines into "disposing" of them!!

In reply to chrisbaggy:

..trying to shag the sloth, I'll think you'll find.

In reply to Frankie1992:

Thanks for all the advice. Ill take a look at the places suggested. Glad the ethics club stayed away!

In reply to Jon Read:

Sweet!

In reply to Frankie1992: Don't listen to them mate. There is loads of good sport climbing at the Roaches

In reply to alan moore:

I suspect this is a sly ethic man creeping in!!

In reply to Frankie1992: There is a bolt at the top of tech crack, but thats the only one trad central, personley I love it how it is