UKC

/ Ropes for Mountaineering and Ice Climbing

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annar - on 06 Jan 2018

Hey all. I am looking for some opinion on ropes for mountaineering and ice climbing. I currently have a single Beal 7.7mm 50m golden dry Ice Twin rope which my partner and I have successfully used for a two-man ascent of Mt. Rainier. I am intending to get more into Ice climbing this winter (probably some top rope and some leading) in the northeast, as well as some plans to do a climb up Mt. Shuksan and possibly Gannett Peak in the summer. I am debating on purchasing a 2nd beal 7.7mm 50m twin rope to use for ice climbing and for Shuksan in the event of rappelling. My other thought was to get a pair of larger half ropes or just use a single for some odd climbs.

What do you think? Does it make sense to just get a 2nd twin for like $120 and learn to climb with twins for ice, or should I expect to get other ropes and just keep the single twin for glacier travel?

Thanks in advance.


Adam15 - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to annar:

Just get a second rope so you have a twin rope set up for ice climbing leading and assuming they are rated as a double too use both together for top roping.
nufkin - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to annar:

Don't know what ice routes are like in the (presumably) US northeast, but if they largely follow gully lines and icefalls then you could probably manage on a Single rope - something like a Beal Joker perhaps, or maybe a touch thicker. Especially if you're planning on setting up top-ropes, just because a single would be easier to handle. I think there's some articles on Will Gadd's site making the case for this system (paired with a thinner tag line for full-length retreats on multi-pitch routes).
But if the routes weave around you might do better to use Half/Double ropes to cut down on the rope drag, rather than a Single or Twins, especially if the routes are of a more mixed nature where the extra redundancy is a bit more reassuring in the event of rock abrasion etc. Beal Ice lines are pretty good, and not much heavier than a set of Ice Twins, or perhaps the Cobras if you want some extra heft. Make sure whatever you get is dry-treated

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