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Suggested climbs/Scrambles in West Cornwall

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ericdavid 26 Jan 2018

Hi

New to this site, so happy to take any advice. A few friends and I did Snowdon this year, the Crib Goch route. We really enjoyed the mix of terrain, total time taken, some challenge on Crib Goch for non-ropes etc.

We have booked to go Cornwall for a 4 days in May, staying in Penzance with the aim of doing a similar level or slightly more challenging scramble/climb.

Any recommendations? Most climbs Ive I have seen involved lots of rope work (which I guess is obvious for cliff faces). But keen to see what people suggest and if we should consider booking a climb with a company to do some rope climbs with. 


Thanks,

Eric

 

 

 Tom Last 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

To get the best out of easy terrain in West Cornwall you'll want to be climbing about diff - vdiff; stuff like Bosigran Ridge, Land's End Long Climb, Longships Ridge, Alison Rib et al at Bosigran etc. all spring to mind; roped climbing.

There's really nothing at all in Cornwall equivalent at the same level of difficulty to Crib Goch (i.e. Scrambling grades) with anywhere near the length and level of interest that you might find on that route or similar I'm l afraid, so yeah, you're gonna want to rope up to get the most out of it. If you do that, you'll have as good a time climbing here as you will anywhere.

There's a few good MIAs (instructors) locally who will happily take you up this sort of stuff if you require it.

Have fun,

Tom

 Greasy Prusiks 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

I agree with Tom. I can't think of anything similar to long grade 1 scrambling in Cornwall, I'll post again if I do but don't hold your breath.

On the upside Cornwall,  especially west Penwith where you are has some of the best climbing in the UK. I'd really highly recommend hiring a guide for the day and getting out on some rock. 

 Mark Kemball 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

As above, I can't think of anywhere that fits what you want, I was hoping some local expert like Tom might know of somewhere.

 jayjackson 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

As others have said, I’m not aware of any scrambling of a reasonable length around Cornwall - it’s all roped climbing terrain.

Routes suggested above by Tom are all brilliant - Commando Ridge is Cornwall’s answer to mountaineering!

If you do decide to book an instructor, look for one with the “AMI” logo (Association of Mountaineering Instructors) - they have to meet ongoing requirements for CPD and conform to the AMI’s code of professional practice. 

Shameless touting of my own business here (but anyone with the AMI logo will give you a good day out).

The first set of photos here are of Commando Ridge...

https://www.facebook.com/pg/ClimbCornwall/photos/?tab=album&album_id=14...

 

OP Anonymous 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

There is also the ridge of Kilmar Tor on Bodmin Moor. It doesn't have the length or exposure of Crib Goch but it's the nearest thing you'll find to a long ridge scramble/walk in Cornwall.

The crest of the tor gives over half a kilometre of walking along a granite ridge with lots of short up and down bits over tors and boulders. You could even stop a short way along to do The Eastern Turret - The Eastern Turret (M) - Cornwall's oldest rock climb, an Easy to Moderate scramble. You won't need ropes or an instructor to do it, but you'll still find plenty of interest.

It's quite a way from Penzance though, but if you are driving it's a few miles off the A30 south west of Launceston so perfect for a stop-off while traveling to or from Cornwall. There is parking near the tor at the end of a lane up from Berriowbridge, from where I'd guess the walk along Kilmar and back wouldn't take more than an hour. But if you wanted more of an outing you could do a circular walk from Minions as detailed here: https://treksandtors.co/2017/04/16/the-cheesewring-kilmar-tor-and-the-hurle...

Other than that, it's pretty much what has been said earlier in the thread, rock climbing routes that it might be better to rope up for. Even the easiest one I can think of, Gendarme Ridge at Bosigran,  would be sensible for novices to do with a rope.

 

 Offwidth 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

Be warned: some of the climbs suggested are pretty serious. Lands End Long Climb is one of the worst classics in the UK for sandbag status (it's HS not VD and Severe if you avoid the top wall and the traverse/jump). Commando Ridge is delightful aside from the final obstacle, but involves exposed travetsing that I wouldn't take a beginner climber on. If you want some fun easier climbing in the area go here:

Halldrine Cove#maps

 

1
 flour 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

Coasteering?

 Jasonic 27 Jan 2018
In reply to ericdavid:

https://climbingcornwall.com

Local & qualified!

 mbh 27 Jan 2018
In reply to Anonymous:

+1 for Kilmar Tor. I have often been running around there, starting from Minions or, more often, from the end of the lane you mention. I have been along the ridge a few times, and up and over it in several places, at which times the running became 'running'.

There must be many good scrambles down to/by the water's edge in West Penwith. One I've done with our children, years ago when the youngest was around 10,  was out along the base of Porthguarnon cliff, following our nose until we found a way up.

Another could be the way down to the base of the Seal Slab end at Chair Ladder. I hesitate to recommend it, since it is a good 15 years since I was there, but I don't recall ever using a rope for that, including the crawl across the jammed boulder above the dawn. If you've never been there, it would have a real sense of adventure. Ditto the way down to the bottom of Helluva Slab. Or just walk/scramble out as far as you can along the base of Bosigran, or take the normal scramble out to the foot of Sennen and then back out, and so on.


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