In reply to springfall2008:
> I quite like a thick long nylon sling for setting top ropes, often to run over edges.
Often handy, but slings are heavily weakened by abrasion. Ropes are still mostly OK until you burn through the sheath (they are remarkably tough). The correct answer is of course multiple independent strands (which a single sling only provides with appropriate knots) not running over an unprotected edge - either get rope protectors or stick a backpack etc. under the rope on the edge.
> in theory you should never depend on a single screwgate for your anchor setup (many people might risk it but don't esp as a novice).
What theory? Single screwgate in an anchor is fine (that's what many climbing walls use, after all) if appropriate (i.e. not running over an edge, not in a position it will rub against rock and unscrew, the right way up so that gravity closes rather than opens the gate)...
> To cut costs you could find an old climbing rope and cut it down instead of your static rope.
So use a bit of old skanky stretch rope rather than £10-£30 of nice new static rope? Static rope will (for the diameters people normally buy) have better abrasion resistance than dynamic rope, and more important you don't get loads of stretch
> Finally, get yourself a sling on your harness with a screwgate on the end (cows tails) and when you are near the edge attach yourself to the anchor using the screwgate and not just via a prusik. Take care not to shock load any static rope/slings.Have fun
Agreed where possible. Often you have a 'safety line' (first leg of your anchor) coming from well back and you want to approach the edge (to put more gear in, arrange edge protection etc). Using a prussik is much less safe than say 'pretend abseiling' across the top of the crag but 'safe enough' if you aren't planning on hurling yourself off the edge - you use the prussik to stop you falling over the edge rather than expecting it to stop you if you do.