UKC

Hi, how much experence is required for Tower Ridge in Winter? I have done plenty of scrambling in Winter in the Lakes, Snowdonia etc. as well as some easy(ish) winter climbs up to about grade II/III. I am confident with trad placements and moving together on a short rope. I understand that it is a long and committing day but I am fast I was just aware that there are a lot of deaths and acciddents wondering what experence is required in your opinions
Thanks in advance
P.S. Sorry if I'm in the wrong chat but it wouldn't let me post anywhere else and I don't want to sign up and get a load of junk emails for just to ask one question

In reply to Unregistered:

Well it not Grade 4 for nothing. Conditions vary, it's long, often has bad weather and you can be waiting for hours behind slow parties, and it's not easy to get past. Then you have to get back down...!

In reply to Unregistered:

Tower Ridge is about as close as you'll get to an alpine climb in Britain.

There's nothing technically harder than III on the ridge but it gets a IV because of its length and because of the number of benighted grade III climbers who had to get rescued every winter from Tower gap. You need to be confident about moving together and route finding if you're lucky enough to get the ridge to yourself. You also need to be fit enough to take on the hardest of the climbing at the very top.

In reply to Unregistered:

Crikey. Is it given IV? It was II/III when we went (and did it as a three) - we started early and finished in twilight on the summit.

If you choose your conditions, it'll be fine for you.
1. Recco the start the night before
2. Start really early - so it's just light as you set off
3. Spot the traverse. really the only route issue
4. Know the way off.

One of my best winter days ever.

In reply to Unregistered:

Its worth saying that variable conditions can make for very different days (as they can on most winter climbs). I've soloed it in October under 3 inches of powder and verglas and in March on fat ice under blue skies. Needless to say the latter is a far more pleasant experience (and I wont be repeating the former- I'd like to see my kids grow up)!
Its well known for being time consuming under deep powder so maybe think about saving it for more enjoyable conditions and later season with more daylight. Knowing the route helps a little and to find the Eastern Traverse keep going up until the crest is gently overhung rock above you- don't fall for the earlier lookalikes.

In reply to Unregistered:

Do it in summer conditions - knocks a grade off if you know where your going