UKC

I've been using the medium tension pro-hands gripmaster following this climber specific routine- https://rockrun.com/blogs/how-to-guides/gripmaster-training-tips

I've maxed out the medium and ordered the heavy tension today.

I run 10k in 50 to 60 minutes, 5 times a week. And I eat healthily enough so no real issues with fitness.

Unfortunately I don't have a fingerboard or pull-up bar at home at the moment but can anyone recommend other things I can do at home to help improve my condition for climbing please?

Thanks

In reply to DizzyVizion:

Hi Dizzy,

I think google is very much your friend here, but I’d recommend the Climbing Nomads core work videos and the lattice training website for starters. 
 

And pull-ups on door Frames. This also has the benefit that you learn how to reattach door frames, which is a good DIY skill 

In reply to Herdwickmatt:

Yep, door frame could do with mending. Was using an unfixed pull-up bar and it pulled the frame off a bit.

I'll go with Google.

Thanks Matty

In reply to DizzyVizion:

I've been doing the Lattice 6 minute core, increasing weight and swapping some exercises, also their flexibility stuff on the Crimpd app. 

youtube.com/watch?v=MRY9RG3ewTQ&

These are pretty easy to make, I got the carriage bolts on ebay

youtube.com/watch?v=pnPCGKQ7JqA&

But I think half crimp max hangs on 20mm holds are the home exercise that have by far been the most helpful with outdoor climbing, probably not what you want to hear! If I didn't have a Beastmaker I'd get a pull up bar and something like a campus rung above a door.

In reply to GrantM:

Thanks gman

Will watch those videos tonight (at work atm).

I have a Simond hangboard but need another cut of plywood to mount it properly.

I see experienced climbers and I'm impressed with their strength and endurance on small holds.

I'm going to put the effort in to close the gap, and also work on a climb 2 or 3 grades above what I can do at present. I love tackling a huge challenge. I'm a very determined person when dealing with something that seems a bit too ridiculous.

Thanks again

In reply to DizzyVizion:

It's worth bearing in mind that strength and endurance on small holds is something that you build gradually.  You really don't want to be getting stuck into really fingery training or climbing on small holds until your tendons are going to be able to take that level of strain and not tear or become damaged in some way (trust me, it's no fun and puts back your progression).

Finger strength is just something that comes after years of progression and whilst absolutely should push yourself on projects that are hard there are no short cuts to building up strength and you probably don't want to be jumping on a fingerboard till you've been climbing a good few years.

So yes, crack on, but be careful!

In reply to Iamgregp:

Thanks lamegregp

I'd read about hanging and pulling with fingers being too risky when starting out so went with the Decathlon / Simond training board. It's made of resin and is rough like rock, and with big holds and slopers it's ideal. 

The finger holds are just a bonus for further down the line really. 

I'm only just now able to use the medium tension grip master for the maximum recommended routine for climbers, which is great when I consider where I started with it.

I'm in for a shock when the heavy tension grip master arrives though.

In reply to DizzyVizion:

The metolious 10min sequences are alright for starting out finger boarding and can easily be altered as strength builds. 

In reply to DizzyVizion:

Ah yeah just looked it up, looks good for starting out in training, stick to the big holds and you'll be grand.  Don't rush things, gently gently catchy monkey when it comes to training!

In reply to Herdwickmatt:

That's a great shout, thank you 👍

In reply to DizzyVizion:

Start easy and build over the long term. 

Fingers are really easy to damage, take an age to fix and only improve slowly because tendons and connective tissue is slow to adapt.

You can put on strength way faster than your joints and tendons can adapt (which is dangerous to the fingers) so go for a balanced approach: easy build fingers and all around strength and flexibility.

Don't forget the shoulders are often a weak link and are often overlooked so concentrating on the correct form when hanging and doing shoulder exercises is as important as the hang itself.

You can make hangboards (and other training gear) from bits of scrap wood - they are perfectly functional but less ascetically pleasing that bought ones. A pulley and some weights (or bricks) is useful for starting with to reduce the load on your fingers.

In reply to gravy:

Thanks gravy

Not long after I first got the grip master (medium tension), I remember thinking I could increase the time I held a pinch. I ended up injuring a finger and had to stop completely for about 3 weeks before slowly building up again.

The thought of getting a similar or worse injury freaks me out a bit.

I have one of these- https://www.simond.com/climbing-training-beam-ballsy-board-black-id_8360021

When I get it mounted properly, I'll be using only the bigger holds and slopers for stuff like hanging and pulling up. I won't be graduating to real finger holds too soon.

The grip master heavy tension I've ordered may not see too much action just yet. But the medium has become far too easy for certain exercises, which is a sign there has been some progress and I'm keen for that to continue.

In reply to DizzyVizion:

And just to note training finger strength isn’t dangerous if done slowly, if you read through the thread it reads a little like you’ll definitely snap a tendon. The body adapts to the stressed out on it, so load it carefully and it’ll be fine! Get the finger board up and do some hangs!

In reply to Herdwickmatt:
To caveat that when I started climbing more again after about 10years away from it, maybe 3rd session back I went to pull on a mono (something I used to be able to do) and my finger went pop! So take it easy but stress and strain isn’t bad