UKC

Winter Climbing- where to start

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zakmacro 27 Aug 2012
Im a winter virgin (bar a few days hill walking in the snow last winter) and would like to do some "proper" winter climbing/mountaineering this winter. Im a seasoned summer walker and scrabbler and fairly competent climber

Can any one recommend a decent route/centre/instructor to brake me in?

Thanks
 Cameron94 27 Aug 2012
In reply to zakmacro:
Get some books about it, find a friend who's a vetran of scottish winter climbing who can help you and build up gradually gaining experience and crag sense. Ask around on here or join a club if you don't have a partner, there's always someone willing to help out

happy climbing
 HenryC 27 Aug 2012
In reply to Cameron94:

What he said. The MLTUK book on Winter Skills would be my first buy and then find someone willing to go out and do some easy stuff to start off with.
In reply to zakmacro: if you are over in north wales this winter (assuming we're getting one this season) I'd be happy to take you up some classic winter walks and/or climbs.
 abr1966 27 Aug 2012
In reply to zakmacro: Post on here mate asking who is free and when. There are often aspirant instructors on here offering free instruction for their logbooks....it'll be busier on here towrd the winter.

I'll be up in Glencoe for a couple of weeks in February with family but will be keen to be getting out for a few days at least!

In reply to zakmacro:

What about a winter mountaineering course with someone like Alan kimber or Martin Moran? I'd reckon it would be worth it to help learn the mountain craft type skills you need, particularly bombproof navigation in poor condition and avalanche awareness. On easy winter climbs, the actual climbing is usually the least serious part of the day; being able to stay safe in that environment is more important

Either that or more winter walking with some easy almost-scrambling eg striding edge, halls fell ridge, carn mor dearg arete, bearing in mind even these can be serious in winter; half way along the CMD arete is a long way from home if the weather turns nasty

Late in season is a good idea too, march /April can still have a lot of snow and much longer daylight hours

Worth the effort though, my best days in the hills have all been in winter...

Cheers
Gregor
 EZ 27 Aug 2012
In reply to zakmacro:

I got a lot of value from the UKC/Plas Y Brenin joint effort big winter climb weekend last November. It was very informative and from being in a similar place to what you describe, I felt able to start going out and having a pop at it. They are doing it again this year and I heartily recommend it. Good food, good accommodation and I felt good value for money as well as just the amount of reassurance instruction that I needed.

Have a look at Plas Y's site for details.
 Offwidth 28 Aug 2012
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs and EZ:

Good call. Winter climbing isn't cheap and I think anyone who can afford to do it can afford a good start with a guide based event to deal with some key safety issues. The benefit of a local guide is that if you are cheeky and ask loads of questions you can get loads of local knowledge in a short lump that could take months, if not whole winter seasons (and all that petrol and effort) given the fickle UK weather to gain on your own.

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