UKC

Lisa Rands climbs grit E8

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 Tyler 12 Oct 2004
In case anyone hasn't seen this already, very impressive.

http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5144
 Skyfall 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

Flip me.

Shame it wasn't on-sight but has anyone on-sighted it? I doubt it. Would be pretty cool to see a woman on-sight it.
LurkingPaul 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

think i might have seen the ascent..!

from 300 yards away..!
 Simon Caldwell 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:
Yeah but what's she ever done on grit?
moonboy 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
well done lisa, it's good to see that girls really can climb above vs
 Adders 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler: really impressive! wow ( in awe, ads )
LurkingPaul 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

was stood on top of elder arete and saw a figure in red cruising the arete.....

 Clare 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

brilliant stuff, even more impossible heights to dream of (the achievement, not the route height...)
DaveH 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

End of the Affair...wasn't that a Dawes first ascent?
OP Tyler 12 Oct 2004
In reply to DaveH:

Yes
 Skyfall 12 Oct 2004
I have stood at the bottom of EOTA and contemplated, you know, setting off up it. I used that age old climbing excuse - "nah, unjustifiable in the circumstances" - it being a bit breezy and me being crap, like.
trolly 12 Oct 2004
In reply to JonC: ive done it
 SC 12 Oct 2004
In reply to trolly:
I could do it if I really wanted to, I just cant be bothered
OP Tyler 12 Oct 2004
In reply to SC:

No you couldn't, you are obviously way too shit.
 SC 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:
Yeah thats true! Seen me climb have you?
trolly 12 Oct 2004
In reply to SC: i really wanted to and did
 danm 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

First E8 by a woman? I thought that was Airlie Anderson on Beginners Mind, way back, or has it been downgraded? As for E7, what about Glenda Huxter on The Bells, The Bells? Or don't they count cos they ain't on grit?
 Skyfall 12 Oct 2004
In reply to trolly:

we're not listening - tra la la la....
 curlymynci 12 Oct 2004
In reply to danm:
> (In reply to Tyler)
> Or don't they count cos they ain't on grit?

That's the one.....
 MattH 12 Oct 2004
In reply to curlymynci:

Read the original news items morons.
It is the first Grit E8 by a woman.

MattH
 curlymynci 12 Oct 2004
In reply to MattH:

Eeeez wot I ment - idioht. :op
 Michael Ryan 12 Oct 2004
In reply to MattH:
> (In reply to curlymynci)
>
> Read the original news items morons.
> It is the first Grit E8 by a woman.
>
> MattH

Matt, that is no way to talk to potential customers.

Now apologies this instant.

Second, be realistic and accept that reading and comprehension skills are generally low, and sometimes people just skim read.

Mick

 Michael Ryan 12 Oct 2004
In reply to curlymynci:

it's "ijit" shirley!
me. 12 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler: Just shows grit is way over rated.
Anonymous 12 Oct 2004
In reply to danm:

I think Beginner's Mind has been downgraded, actually. I think this is actually the first consensus E8 by a woman, though I might be wrong (anyone?). Fine effort.

jcm
OP Tyler 12 Oct 2004
In reply to me.:
> (In reply to Tyler) Just shows grit is way over rated.

How? It's not that I don't agree with you but I don't see how this proves it.
MarkHG 13 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:

Maybe I'm mistaken or imagining things but I'm sire I've seen a photo of Lucy Creamer on End Of the Affair?

Mark
 Peter Walker 13 Oct 2004
In reply to MarkHG: You have. On a top rope, though.
trolly 13 Oct 2004
In reply to JonC: but you were listening la la la
MarkHG 13 Oct 2004
In reply to Peter Walker:

That must have been it - thanks Peter.
 Peter Walker 13 Oct 2004
In reply to MarkHG: And if you want a "heated debate" about that very photo.....

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=3314&v=1#47065
 Aly 13 Oct 2004
In reply to jcm: Is The End Of The Affair now considered 'solid E8', or still 'bottom-end E8'?
Anonymous 13 Oct 2004
In reply to Aly: You'll be able to comment next week won't you?
 cornishben 14 Oct 2004
In reply to Tyler:
I liked the quote on climbing.com

American Lisa Rands has climbed End of the Affair (E8 6b) at Curbar Edge in England, perhaps the boldest single-pitch rock climb yet by a woman. The route, established by Johnny Dawes in 1986, takes on a striking arête and is considered solid at the grade – which roughly translates to poorly protected 5.12-plus or 5.13-minus. The crux comes near the top and is essentially unprotected. Rands said this sequence felt like a V7 boulder problem at her height, and involved a strange body-tension and balance move where she had to smear with her right foot, pull with her left leg around the blunt arête, and let go with her right hand as she stretched up with her left for a sloping pinch on the arête.

Does this mean she climbed it no handed?? let go with her right and then moved her left hand up.. Dawes would have been proud
In reply to cornishben: He'll have to go back and hop up it now!
 Fiend 14 Oct 2004
In reply to cornishben:

Doesn't sound like the normal sequence at all but I can imagine how a move like that would go with both hands off during the move.
 Aly 14 Oct 2004
In reply to Anonymous: Have to see if it stops raining first!

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