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easiest E1 in Britain?

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epik 10 Nov 2004
Following on from "how hard is E1" i was wondering what the easiest E1 in the UK was? my vote goes to

"94 Crackers 6m E1 5b Black Rocks
The short wall, slab and arete to the right of the central groove, passing a handy sapling."

I reckon anyone with an ounce of strength could do this one though that may be because the sapling is now more of a tree but it still says E1 in the guide even if it does feel more like VS at most!

Any other realy soft touch E1's out there for all aspiring extreme leaders?
 MeMeMe 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

3ps?
 James Rowe 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

'Prest on Up' at Twistleton I recommended to be downgraded to VS from E1! Though that does depend on your view of limestone fricton slab moves, but it really did feel like a VS when I did it and the conditions weren't that good.

James.
 ScottMackenzie 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

hmm black icicle at shepards crag is pretty easy, loads of holds & bomber gear, quite short and a tree once u get off the face & round the corner.

scott.
 SidH 10 Nov 2004
In reply to MeMeMe:
yer, gotta be id have said. sopme guy on a recent thread said hed fallen off the top and not hit the deck, well if thats the case its low-end HVS surely.
 SidH 10 Nov 2004
In reply to SidH: taking my view as a seconder-only of it with a pinch of salt, of course. Although my climbing partner didnt agree E1 either.
 gear boy 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: all the ones that got upgrade from hvs in gritfax guide!
sloper 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: probably the one on Dental Slab at Rhylstone, it felt about VS at the hardest!
 gear boy 10 Nov 2004
In reply to sloper: a yorkshire E1 at VS, what has happened to the world?!!
epik 10 Nov 2004
In reply to gear boy:
> (In reply to epik) all the ones that got upgrade from hvs in gritfax guide!

but they were still HVS this one at BR's is easy in the, walk along and accidently do it in trainers without realising, type sense!
 Chris Fryer 10 Nov 2004
In reply to sloper: I assume you mean hotline on Prsident's Slab. About as difficult as putting on a hat.
sloper 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Chris Fryer: That could be it!
Geoffrey Michaels 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

Rubberface in Glen Nevis can't be E1 surely. Not much gear but the climbing is easy.
 GrahamD 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

Can anyone name the really soft E1 on the left hand side of the main face of Bird Rock ? one steep move which is barely 5b with overhead gear.

Failing that, Greenacres at Curbar.
 LankyPaddy 10 Nov 2004
Technically ?

Californian Arete - its 4c ! (ok granted its death on a stick)
 Fiend 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

All E0.
Bruce Allmighty 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: crust hounf head end quarry north cumbia. it ill be dry at the moment.
 gr 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Bruce Allmighty:
Westering Home, Reiff. v soft touch!
 sutty 10 Nov 2004
In reply to sloper:

If Hotline is the one you did when I was there it did look to be fairly easily done by you, but more like HVS form other people doing it. A two move wonder wasn't it?
 Barra 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Fiend:

Here we go again...

<rolls eyes>

Luv Barra! xx
 Chris the Tall 10 Nov 2004
In reply to gear boy:
> all the ones that got upgrade from hvs in gritfax guide!

I think most of the silly upgrades were in the BMC guides

Pedlars Arete and Greengrocer Wall, for example.

sloper 10 Nov 2004
In reply to sutty: but weren't to other people who did it HS/VS leaders? (no disrespect intended, after all I had my moments on Monument Crack!)
sloper 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Chris the Tall: Indeed Peddlars Arete (the one int he middle is soft for VS, in fact it's even easier than Nuke the Midges)
In reply to epik:
Namenlos @ Stanage, no real hard moves, a bit run out at the top but bomber gear if you do (somehow) manage to fluff it.

FH 10 Nov 2004
In reply to sloper:

Hot line is easy but not as easy as woodbine at Brimham.
 notgnarly 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Duncan Disorderly:

Like TopOut did in nearly decking out on it
Tobs at work 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Duncan Disorderly: have you been on it recently? the nut placements on the ramp are rather worn these days. the friends in the break are bomber but that is a long fall...
 Stuart S 10 Nov 2004
In reply to gr:

> Westering Home, Reiff. v soft touch!

Agree that it's soft touch for E1, but only cos the gear is so good. Personally, I'd give it HVS 5c - I find the moves themselves rather gnarly.

For an easier guidebook E1 5b, try Fungus Face at the Pass of Ballater. One moderately tricky move that's substantially easier if you're tall, and the rest is a path. Not much gear, but you scarcely need it. HVS 4c.
 Chris Fryer 10 Nov 2004
In reply to sloper: I have pointed a dozen or so people at it over the years and concensus is that its pretty piss.
999thAndy 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:
Any other realy soft touch E1's out there for all aspiring extreme leaders?

Alone in Space on Goat Crag Borrowdale.
or
Bicycle repair man Staden


 Bern 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:
Calisto, E1 5a, St Govan's East, Pembroke. A very gentle saunter with good gear too.
Dru 10 Nov 2004
In reply to The Sultan of Loch Quoich AKA the racist bigot:

HVS for sure!
In reply to notgnarly:
Didn't he miss the friend placement? The donut)

In reply to Tobs at work:
Did it this year, nut on the way up seemed marginal but the climbing was never hard and after the bomber gear in the initial crack that friend went in so sweetly I felt it din't need much else.



Tobs at work 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Duncan Disorderly: I reckon your feet are 3m above the friend before the top of the ramp - that's a 7m fall - that's a big enough fall for E1 don't you think (i do agree that the gear is bomber and you aren't actually going to deck out but it is scary enough....)
Tobs at work 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Duncan Disorderly: but yes, as E1s go it is stupidly soft...
pete theobald 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Tobs at work:

Theres an e2 to the left of business boy @ bamford. Its got 3 moves being maybe 6a. It gets E2 but its easy/ Finger lock, finger lock top mantle out. More like HVS

P
 Stig 10 Nov 2004
In reply to pete theobald: Surely the easiest E1 in the country has to be Open Book at Egerton. E1 5b? More like VS 4c tops.

Not Fozz 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Stuart S:

>Personally, I'd give it HVS 5c - I find the moves themselves rather gnarly.

I've seconded it and can happily say crux not 5C as I did moves first shot whilst climbing like a pound of mince, much like i have for last 4 or 5 years.

As always, its all in the feet
 Stuart S 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Not Fozz:

Your fingers must fit into the pods in the crack better than mine then! I fell off it at my first attempt to lead it, and only succeeded a few years later with much huffing and puffing, at a time when I was pretty solid at E2.

What does a climbing pound of mince look like, btw?!?
Not Fozz 10 Nov 2004
Alii 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

Many Happy Returns - Anglezarke
In reply to 999thAndy:

Umm - I thought Bicycle Repair Man was quite full weight for E1 (about two whole grades harder than Cemetery Gates, for example), but I've never been any good on limestone.
 Adam Lincoln 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

The Arrow - St Govans
The Crease - Bamford
Cameo - Wilton 1
 AndyJug 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Gordon Stainforth & 999thAndy:
Yeah I thought that it was certainly worth E1 when i did it a couple of months ago (although failing light probably didn't help)
 GF 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: Louie Groove on Ramshaw.....still class it as my first E1 lead though.
 Dale Berry 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: Thought Cactus on Beech Butress @ Curbar is by far the easiest I have done; the only E1 I've seriously considered soloing.
 craig h 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

The Tolken @ Pule Hill is the one, why it got the grade in the first place is unknown, VS5a and well protected excellent to do at the start of the season to say you are back in the extreams.
Enock AOL Time-Warner Brotherz 10 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: TPS at Froggat
 Duncan Bourne 10 Nov 2004
In reply to Enock AOL Time-Warner Brotherz:
I was just wondering when that would come up
 Mike C 11 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:
Peeping Tom at Baggy Point. Make sure you lead it as the crux is a downclimb from decent pro before a long, poorly protected traverse, as for the second, well, it's a bit different.
 220bpm 11 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

Dead Ringer at Limekilns is a doddle for E1 5b.

Big ledge at a third height, bomber wires and nice jugs.
Its steepish limestone tho so a wee bit pumpy.

Its the only one near me I know of.
 Wil 11 Nov 2004
In reply to James Rowe:
> (In reply to epik)
>
> 'Prest on Up' at Twistleton I recommended to be downgraded to VS from E1!

Can't agree - reckon the top moves are spot on at 5b and the gear / situation etc justifies the E1.

Ever done Atomic on the upper tier? - gets Hvs 5a - reckon that deserves E1 for the precariousness of a rather large block which constitutes the gear and holds!

 MeMeMe 11 Nov 2004
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

I mentioned it as the second post!
Leeds Ben 11 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:
WHAT About Lyndhurst at Crookrise. I only seconded it but the leader agreed it was a piece of piss. I thought the hardest bit was where it shared a move or 2 with Cat's whiskers, which is VS!
 Skyfall 11 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

> Any other realy soft touch E1's out there for all aspiring extreme leaders?

Yep, just about any E1 which I've led is a soft-touch, almost by definition...
Jo George 11 Nov 2004
In reply to The Sultan of Loch Quoich:
> (In reply to epik)
>
> Rubberface in Glen Nevis can't be E1 surely. Not much gear but the climbing is easy.

Easy climbing perhaps but if you fell before the first bit of gear deck out from quite a height - that's prob why its gone up from HVS to E1.

Jo George 11 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:
> Following on from "how hard is E1" i was wondering what the easiest E1 in the UK was? my vote goes to
>
> Black Custard - Ballater, about VS to OH then a quick move to top - pretty easy E1
OP Anonymous 12 Nov 2004
In reply to GF:

Yikes! I can't say I agree with Louie Groove at easy E1 - although I did hear that a runner placement has 'appeared' recently, which would make a difference, to be sure.

jcm
 Chris Fryer 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Leeds Ben: I thought the top roof was definitely the crux, slapping blindly on those slopers before you can get a foot up. Maybe cos I'm a lanky git. Gear under the roof wasnt too inspiring either.
 Dave Garnett 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Anonymous:

John

There aren't any functional new placements, there's a bit of a scrape where somebody might have made a half-hearted attempt. I agree with you, I don't think Louie Groove is easy for E1 without using a side runner (which is easy to do and makes it HVS).

Of course, it looks easy but, as we know, there are no soft touch E1s in Staffordshire
 Chris Davids 12 Nov 2004
In reply to gr:

How about Orange Wall, Reiff. It's the only E1 I've led but it felt very straightforward and I can't climb Peak HVS.
The climbing on Westering Home felt a good deal harder.
 HimTiggins 12 Nov 2004
In reply to 220bpm:

Most of the E1s at Cambussbaron are a soft touch. OK, some of them might be 5b, but you can generally get gear as and when you want to, so surely no E1. Nice place though.

I agree with you on dead ringer too, though as you said, it is quite pumpy.
 catt 12 Nov 2004
In reply to gr:
> Westering Home, Reiff. v soft touch!

maybe a little soft (must be if i considered leading it after a 2nd) but still challenging and surely not among the easiest in the uk.

now there is a very easy E1 5a at limekilns, cant remember its name. about 9m, and only 2 bits of gear but there both good and where you need them. the climbing though is as easy as the vs next to it.

i only speak from 2nd both these routes.
 IanMcC 12 Nov 2004
In reply to bullwinkle:
Isn't "Kiln Dance with Me" the easiest E1 at Limekilns?
 catt 12 Nov 2004
In reply to IanMcC:

that may be the one. it was on the block you need to abb off
Leeds Ben 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Chris Fryer:
> I thought the top roof was definitely the crux, slapping blindly on those slopers before you can get a foot up.
I can't rmember that bit - having the rope above me probably made a big difference, or maybe we were just off route..
 Chris Fryer 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Leeds Ben: I remember it only too well. You would know if you went through it. If you avoided it, probably only VS.
 Grover 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> (In reply to Anonymous)
>
> ... I agree with you, I don't think Louie Groove is easy for E1 without using a side runner (which is easy to do and makes it HVS).
>

Where's the side runner? Is it on the left or the right?

 Dave Garnett 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Grover:

Left.
 Grover 12 Nov 2004
In reply to Dave Garnett:

That's nice to know. I didn't use anything out left so I keep my self respect
Mark Phillips 14 Nov 2004
In reply to catt: I led W Home last year. Reckon it's about bench mark E1.Definite technical 5b, worth E1 because those wires are pretty small.Quite short lived though, lovely route.I've done many easier E1'S.
 Michael Hood 14 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: Try Massacre at Stanage, current guide E1 5b, previous 89 guide HVS 5b, previous 83 guide VS 5a.

The true grade is probably VS/HVS 5a/b borderline but it didn't feel undergraded at VS 5a all those years ago. It's even got a flattish landing you can drop onto.

Another one is Social Fools (E1 5b) at Gardoms. Should it even get HVS? Do it and then try Nowanda next door.

Yet another one, Cent E1 5b at High Neb. Well it might just possibly be a one move wonder E1 if you scrupulously avoid putting any gear in the adjoining easy route but this is within reach without moving sideways at all.
Mark Phillips 15 Nov 2004
In reply to epik: 2 more suggestions just spring to mind. Monument Crack at Rylstone, not really that bad if you carry some BIG chocks, and Ocean Wall at Standing Stones, Chew Valley.Reachy at the bottom then ok higher up. Never would have thought grit would have provided what I remember as being soft touch E1's.
 JR 15 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

Bulbous Bow - Birchen Edge
 craig h 15 Nov 2004
In reply to Mark Phillips:

I would not put Ocean Wall as a soft touch, but then again grades are in a way subjective. Wits End is a far easier option here, 1 move wonder with exellent VS climbing above. Fallen Heroes would also be a better option especially if you had been pulling on coloured jugs all winter.
Wits End, if into safe fingery 5b problems would be a good 1st E1.
Ocean Wall is well worth a go as well, if at Stanage it would be a polished horror by now, on a par with left unconquerable.
jubawix 16 Nov 2004
In reply to Scott_M@c: your talking about the second pitch which is vs and any way its only hvs n dirty.
 Offwidth 16 Nov 2004
In reply to epik:

Technically something like California Arete
Adjectivally my vote is for Not Now John @ Bamford (more VS 5c than E1 5b)

Other adjectially softish ones not mentioned yet include

Ratline (PGE grade), Birchen.
Hugo De Vries, Turning Stone Edge.

PS beware of high extreme leaders views on this: they can often favour poorly protected E1's that feel like a path to them but not to those of us that stuggle on HVS.
 Coel Hellier 16 Nov 2004
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> Of course, it looks easy but, as we know, there are no soft touch E1s in Staffordshire

How about Slowhand? The climbing is no harder than on Bulwark (though more sustained) and the
last runner is a lot nearer as you top out. Easier than the top 10 HVSs in your guide's graded list.
 Offwidth 16 Nov 2004
In reply to Coel Hellier:

The easiest E1's were supposed to be harder than the hardest HVS's? I knew they missed something
Not Fozz 16 Nov 2004
In reply to bullwinkle:

>Most of the E1s at Cambussbaron are a soft touch.

pains me to say it - Not Easy Contract was my first and Malky the Alky my last E1 lead, but you're right. Just compare to others in the same guidebook, like Longbow.

Kipper 16 Nov 2004
In reply to Offwidth:

> Hugo De Vries, Turning Stone Edge.

I can't do this, and I've tried on 3 occasions. I know I'm crap, but feel I must be doing something wrong

Must try again, and harder.
 GrahamD 17 Nov 2004
In reply to Kipper:

How tall are you ? its very reach dependant.
 Offwidth 17 Nov 2004
In reply to GrahamD:

I'd say span dependant rather than height (I'm 5:10 but with a positive ape index)
Kipper 17 Nov 2004
In reply to GrahamD:
>
> How tall are you ? its very reach dependant.

About 5'8" in old money (and a not very good ape index). I get up the slabby bit to the wobbly/loose block, but can't work out what to do to get over the slight ovelap from there......

 GrahamD 17 Nov 2004
In reply to Kipper:

From memory, I think you have to reach a l-o-o-ong way up and right for a pocket. Of course, my memory could be playing me up.

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