UKC

Identify the route?

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 AndyRoss 18 Nov 2004
Hi, I'm trying to identify a route in a photo taken by a member of my club, and that we're using for a calendar photo. The picture is at:
http://andrewross.fotopic.net/p9234189.html

We know the route is at the Llangattock Escarpment, and that its probably around HVS or E1.

Cheers
Andy
scaramanga 18 Nov 2004
In reply to aoh45:

Nice shots, but I'd double check the title of the one called "Sgurr Am Basteir" on this page before you go to press

[http]://andrewross.fotopic.net/c344908.html

(had to bracket the http as the dumb UKC web design says it's not a valid link)
OP AndyRoss 18 Nov 2004
In reply to scaramanga:
Yes, I know about the spelling mistakes in the file names. I have checked spellings of everything and got them correct in the calendar. But thanks for pointing it out.
scaramanga 18 Nov 2004
In reply to aoh45:

I'm thinking it should just be "Am Basteir" or "Am Bhasteir", without the "Sgurr". I could be wrong though...
 Simon Caldwell 18 Nov 2004
In reply to scaramanga:
According to the OS, the main summit is Am Basteir, the northern top is Sgurr a Bhasteir
OP AndyRoss 18 Nov 2004
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Indeed, it was the northern top.
scaramanga 18 Nov 2004
In reply to aoh45:

I therefore stand corrected.
 Wil Treasure 18 Nov 2004
In reply to aoh45: I can't think of the name I'm afraid, but I'm pretty sure Tony Penning did the first ascent, and it's E1 5b? The flowstone wall on the left is Cry Havoc E2 5b, can't think of the name of the the crack, but if he's on the route I think, he's followed the crack to the bulge then out right onto the arete? That gonna drive me mad thinking of the name.....

Wil T
 Wil Treasure 18 Nov 2004
In reply to aoh45: Aha got it: Edge of Time E1 5b
But if he's actually going up the crack it's Passage of Time, also E1 5b.

Wil T
 GrahamD 18 Nov 2004
In reply to katonka:

Whats the climbing actually like ? I've always been put off going there but this photo looks brilliant.
 adam carless 18 Nov 2004
In reply to scaramanga:
> (In reply to aoh45)
>
> I therefore stand corrected.

Is that allowed on forums? I thought things like changing your mind, reaching agreement, and all that kind of nicety in discussions was frowned upon online.

Or is this some cunning and insidious form of trolling designed to confuse and upset people?
OP AndyRoss 18 Nov 2004
In reply to aoh45:
Passage of time would make sense.
Thanks
Jamie Wakeham 18 Nov 2004
In reply to GrahamD:

Bloody horrible, I'm afraid. The rock is about as solid as cheddar* and the gear is less than confidence-inspiring. I believe Paul was quite unhappy about the two poor micro-nuts below him when I took this the shot... I ended up nigh-on soloing a VS I'd been tempted up (solely 'cos the holds all looked good) because everything I tried to put gear into fell off.

The moves themselves were nice, though - steep and positive stuff, with a lot of sidepull-y things going on.

Jamie

* The cheese, not the gorge...
 GrahamD 18 Nov 2004
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Shame - thanks.
 LankyPaddy 18 Nov 2004
Nice photos for the calender - Feb is my favourite, just amazing
 Wil Treasure 18 Nov 2004
In reply to GrahamD: The few routes in the photo are actually quite good, but the top-outs are steep loose mud (and a couple of lumps of loose rock!) The white streak on the left is where the E2 Cry Havoc goes, and that is a genuinely good route, steep juggy climbing with good pro (but you have to work for it!) and i think there's even a tree belay at the top of it. As for the rest of the escarpment....there are a couple of good ones, but mostly very bold and hard, and the pro never goes in where you think it will. A friend of mine took an 8m fall onto a micro-nut when a lump of turf came out an HVS she was leading, the nut held somehow (only rated to 2kN)! In a bit of a state now though.

Wil T
 Paz 18 Nov 2004
In reply to katonka:

I'm sorry, neither you or Jamie are putting me off. It looks brilliant. I was only just thinking yesterday I ought to go there. have you got any more kerlangatock photos Andy?
OP AndyRoss 19 Nov 2004
In reply to Paz:
Jamie took them, not me. I wasn't even there.
Andy

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