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If you could climb 1 route again as your last ever route......

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J2 10 Jan 2005
Which route would you repeat? and why?

As in, uve got no time left to live and you choose to do one final route before you leave this life.

Substitute Problem, Hill, Mountain for Route to suit your style
Hotbad Peteel 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

dovers progress at burbage for my own reasons
Pete
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Mt evererest from the bay of bengal, it would take months, Id climb slowly and have a big party along the way.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Hotbad Peteel:

care to elaborate?

Id go for a solo on Traf Wall at Birchen, my first S lead, my last big milestone, for a mountain Id do Helvellyn via Striding Edge.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

REPEAT route, Nutter :p
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Helyvellyn, striding edge? why?

Its Ok, but it is way to busy and eroded, get yourself up to skye and you'll see the difference.
 Rampikino 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

Hope.
Hotbad Peteel 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

just a route that means alot to me. Its not really very significant and I don't really want to elaborate but i've done it twice now. The first time I cruised it and then spent a few years treying to do it again and just getting freaked out by it. I'd be happy to be able to wander up it as the last thing I ever do. Theres a few routes i'd do if I had nothing to lose. Maybe something like long johns slab or even something a bit harder and blder, but I haven't done enough routes to be able to call them repeats
Pete
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

Ur missing the point, its routes etc youve already done!! Helvellyn was my first ridge as a nipper, has a lot of family memories etc.
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: ohh missed the again bit in the title, not that I havnt done everest from the bay of bengal or anything.

In that case probably some of the easy mountain routes Ive done, observatory ridge on the ben, curved ridge, pinnacl ridge, sgur nan gillian, or something like that.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

this ones crashing and burning!!

was hoping for some inspirational stories etc etc
Bruce Allmighty 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: ruddy'ard* was arwsome.










for those of you who arn't a kippling groove is known as ruddy'ard
 Chris the Tall 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
South Face of Sass di Ciampic in the Dolomites

a) because it's the longest route I've ever done (500m)
b) because it's really good
c) because we made a complete cockup with the route-finding and I'd like to do it properly before I die
d) because it would be a nice place to die (a thought that did occur to me during our epic on it)
Maggot 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Black and Tans, I just really enjoyed it.
OP Anonymous 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Hmmm, that's tough, the mountains continuously amaze with with their general aceness so picking out one thing to repeat is tough...

Mountains: either An Teallach or Sgurr Nan Gillean via Pinnacle Ridge.

Climbs: either Main Wall on Cyrn Las/Diffys Ddu (definitely the most exposed positions I've been able to climb with my meagre skills or Technical Slab at The Roaches just because I was really afraid but did it anyway without gibbering and then arrived at the top just in time to watch a beautiful sunset. Or perhaps the Old Man of Stoer because it was such an adventure and a damn good route too.

Scrambles: The Chasm Face on Glyder Fach because it's amazing and I quite like caving secretly.

Victim of Mathematics.
 Dave Stelmach 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: East Face Route on the Old Man of Hoy. The most atmospheric route I've ever climbed, and to see if my fag packet is still under the stones on the top.
DaveC at Work 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
It would be one of two and they are rather different.

Hairless Heart, Froggatt. The moves to leave the ledge on Great Slab are gritstone slab climbing at it's very best. If it's the last thing I'm going to do then I won't be so worried about falling off as last time either!

The Axe, Cloggy. Just the most gob-smacking piece of climbing I've ever done. The exposure is awesome and the protection is only just adequate. The climbing itself is hard, but not that hard! Would have to remember to take a change of underwear for afterwards this time though.
epik 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Thought maybe my first E1 in Scotland, maybe first proper ice climb in Utah, lots of route in Canada i'd like to go back and do but actually think last night would be spent at Cratcliffe Bouldering (lots of problems)! I know its boring but nothing beats a warm summer evening spent up cratcliffe with a few mates chilling out and doing some good problems! Its still my favorite place and if it had to be a route id go and do requiem again on cratcliffe main crag (that tree (second belay anchor) makes the best picnic site in the country)!
 Jus 10 Jan 2005
In reply to DaveC at Work:

Hey, you've done the Axe - we must talk about Cloggy next time we're out and about together.
 BrianT 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: A toss-up between Rock Idol and The Rip, at Pembroke. The Rip because it's possibly the best jamming crack I've ever done, and Rock Idol because, well, JUST LOOK AT IT, ffs!!
 Al Evans 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: For me it would have to be Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow for personal reasons.
 Marc C 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Oxine (Clogwyn y Wenallt) - or,for prolonged pleasure, The NW Arete of Mt. Sill (California Sierra)

Route not yet done? Figures in a Landscape (Joshua Tree)
DaveC at Work 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Marc C:

> Route not yet done? Figures in a Landscape (Joshua Tree)

Exquisite choice! It's as good as it looks you know.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Al Evans:

I fancy a go JJ one day!!
 Dave Garnett 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Probably the voie normale up the Spitzkoppe in Namibia. Not difficult, but long and amazing surroundings. Dying on the top would amount to a Zoroastrian air burial too!

 Skyfall 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Barbarian - because I had the biggest fight of my life on it and have to get back on it someday to do it cleanly and I might as well do it before the lights go out. And my climbing partner has to come with me to relive the experience too! So I clearly have to die before he does, or maybe the route would get both of us in one go....
 Chris the Tall 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Al Evans:
With or without the monkey ?
rob sykes 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

eliminate a on dow. climbed it on a lovely may weekend, we were the first on the crag. two mates who i didn't know were even there followed us up it, then two more friends arrived, again we didn't know were there. best of all we still got the solitude as there was a good gap between us all. climbing was superb - i got what i considered to be the two best pitches, weather stayerd fine and we ended up in 'the sun' for a well earned pint.

if there's any flexibility as to when i'm meant to shuffle off this mortal coil please could we squeeze in the last bit rather than proceeding direct to death. thanks!
simmo 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: i wouldnt want to think like that, just wanna keep living till i die, cos we're all a long time dead

however there's a few on the ticklist, but and the end of the day we just do this for me, so what does it matter

to all good luck with it:+)

ps if i do them i'll try and put a couple of photos in

peace

simmo
 John Alcock 10 Jan 2005
In reply to BrianT:
Wow another person who's actually found and done the Rip. What a fun climb especially on days when Scareys is overrun. Bit of a shame it has so many rests.
For me:
Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis (solo). I first soloed it back in the 70's, when it was a ribbon of continuous water ice. There was no one else on the mountain. It's not hard by modern standards but full of memories for me.
Mind you I'd probably need a chopper to get to the bottom these days.
In reply to J2:

Does it have to be a route I've led as that would limit it to 2 climbs. Otherwise I'd repeat Middlefell Buttress in the same gorgeous conditions as the first time. It was the first multipitch climb I did and I loved it once the ground has stopped appearing to be wibbling below me every time I looked down.
 Smelly Fox 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
Probably the Needle on the Shelter Stone Crag, Cairngorms. 9 fully contrasting pitches of E1. Classic!
 mark s 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: b4xs at hen cloud.probibly the most out there feeling ive had on a route.plus my belayer said he was nearly sick with worry.
 LakesWinter 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Ummm, route; probably the Aonach Eagach in winter, I did it a couple of years ago when it was totally frozen and plastered under a clear blue sky, it was amazing. I won't repeat in the near future though coz i don't want to spoil the memory.

Rock climb, um not sure, maybe Bamford Rib, but that's probably coz it's the last good route I did, in reality the South ridge of the chappelle la gliere, coz it's the best route I've ever done, without a doubt, if you're only going to do one more it had better be good!
 link 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

North face of Tryfan Wales. Its easy peasy but i love that hill to bits.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

doesnt say lead or led anywhere
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to link:

not done that for ages..... maybe soon.....
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to MattG:

how hard / tricky is the AE ridge? possible solo on good conditions above and under foot?
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: its a good scramble, depends how confident you are, soloable, but it does send a few to the hospital each year so best be careful. Ive soloed it a few times now, once when it had small sections of ice, but it generally gets stripped pretty quickly.

J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

can u get any conditions reports beforehand? Whats it likely to be like late Feb to Early March? Prefer snow to rock

Any other solo challenges in that area?
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Under snow its a serious proposition, I think grade II. but with the length a very serious one.

Im not sure I'd solo it, probably would want to rope up, its hard to catch in winter nick, each time I have done it in Feb/march time it hasnt been in "winter" condition.

Id have thought keeping an eye on here and SAIS reports will let you know what condition it will be in.
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
"Any other solo challenges in that area?"

Have you done ring of Steall from Glen Nevis? I havnt actually done it but its meant to be a classic grade 1 scramble.

ballachulish horseshoe is a good route, only just scrambling in sections but great views as its so far west.

cheers
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

not done much at all, tell me more about the Ballachulish HS....
 Jenn 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Does it have to be one that I've done before? If so - OSITC - If not, but still has to be with in my ability - Horned Crag Route - if it doesn't have to be within my ability - any one of these: http://www.peakware.com/encyclopedia/unclimbed.htm
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Jenn:

OH!!! my goal is to climb unclimbed peak!
 Jenn 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Cool beans
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Jenn:

Nice phrase!
 Pete 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: The Moon on Yellow Wall at Gogarth. I had wanted to do it for years and everybody I knew had done it. In the end I did it with someone I had met for the first time that day. As if the whole experience was not atmospheric enough, on reaching the bottom of the abseil I realised had left one 9mm climbing rope at the top. Had to prussik out and get it. More scary than the route! In the end the route went well and it was a mega day. Like to do it again without forgetting the rope first! But perhaps do the Cow first.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Pete:

One day if am ever good, Id like to go back and something there, looks awesome place and I kinda like the idea you HAVE to climb to get out
 Phil1919 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
The Arrow St Govans Head, although an onsight first attempt would be the way to go out.
 Mr Harry 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Well, havent done that many climbs in my lifetime, but my all time favorite would be Tody's Wall @ Froggatt. Don't know why i choose that one. Just really like it. Has a bit of everything. Hardish crux move, some jamming, bit of a slab you dont want to be falling on.

One climb i want to do again, but didnt reach the top of (so close) is also at Froggatt, Three Pebble Slab. The F*cker!Think my next climb will be at stanage. Looking at the Right Unquonkerable. (badly spelt i know.) Looks awesome!
 Pete 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: It is certainly awesome with an air of total commitment. You know that you have to do it. One I have always fancied with the same air of commitment is America on Carn Gowla, but never had the nerve at the same time as having the form!
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Pete:

Seen so many pics, its cool cos only climbers really get that view for real! seems a measure of being a resonable climbe to have a Gogarth lead under ur harness!
Iain Ridgway 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Its a great horsehoe, I think best accessed out the back of the school, then climbing the ridge up to the first munro, follow the ridge out west to the 2 nd munro, Its down point is the lower slopes have been deforested, some people access from the glen between the two making it an out and back trip, but for me the best return is to drop off at the col out SE back to the glen you walked up.

The great thing is its quite far west so gives you excellent views into the mainland and along the west coast.

Its basically a walk with a slight scramble up the last bit IIRC, did it almost 10 years ago now, in blue skyes, beautifully corniced, well worth a day out.
J2 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Iain Ridgway:

Big Thanks for that, have copied this thread into my exped folder. Will have a look at it for pre-Glencoe Picnic
AnthonyB 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: It has to be Joe's direct start onto slab recess, at Froggatt it's a great lead and has everything.
 craig h 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Plum Popper @ Pule Hill, a route I did a few years ago and it's probably where I would like my ashes scattered anyway. So if anyone fancies a BBQ post route as long as I get that last beer or 2!
 Jenn 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
> (In reply to Jenn)
>
> Nice phrase!

Thnaks - but I can't claim it as my own.
 sutty 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Just come to me, repeat traverse of Chamonix Aiguilles, then carry on to do the Mere de Glace watershead.

That would be some last route.
 BrianT 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Jude says "3-pebble slab".
 Simon 10 Jan 2005
In reply to BrianT:

I'd have to do something at Froggatt - and it would have to be Sunset Slab......

Would I be allowed to masturbate just before the flake??

;0)

Si
 Greenbanks 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Gashed Crag (Tryfan)
Eagle Front (Eagle Crag)
Saxon (Scafell)

All for sentimental reasons....
ruairi 10 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

There are so many unclimbed peaks all over the world they're not actually that hard to do. Many are acutally not technically very hard, just haven't been done because a) people don't know about them b) They're relatively remote c) Weather's shit or d) You'll get shot doing them or any combination of the above.

Anywho, route I would like to repeat as a last route. Hmm. It would be one of: Chequer's Butress, Froggat as it's the only time I've walked up a grit route of any grade (no way is the HVS 5b! - but my 6'3" height might have something to do with that). Any of the new routes I've done - all have great personal memories in their own way. Or perhaps, best of all, The Arete followed by Original Route in the Avon Gorge, solo. Untaxing climbing (Except for 'that' mantleshelf), and just about the only thing in the world I've ever soloed.
ruairi 10 Jan 2005
In reply to ruairi:

That was James Jackson. Not Ruairi, BTW.
 Dave C 10 Jan 2005
In reply to Simon:
> (In reply to BrianT)

> Would I be allowed to masturbate just before the flake??


Only if you clean up after yourself!
Maggot 11 Jan 2005
In reply to Dave C: It'd make for a great kleenex advert
 Andy Farnell 11 Jan 2005
In reply to DaveC at Work:
>> The Axe, Cloggy. Just the most gob-smacking piece of climbing I've ever done. The exposure is awesome and the protection is only just adequate. The climbing itself is hard, but not that hard! Would have to remember to take a change of underwear for afterwards this time though.

Great choice, although I would say the gear is much more than adequate, very well protected in fact.

My choice would be Barabarella Direct at Trevallen, but this time without the 50 ft lob!

Andy F
 JMarkW 11 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Cuillin Ridge, did on the last day of my visit, when I though I'd lost my chance but thewaether came through in the end.

or

Italian Ridge on the matterhorn, Why? cos' its the Matterhorn.
 steveej 11 Jan 2005
Great Slab - Cloggy
OP Anonymous 11 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Walker Spur. Again and agian and again...

Great line, great mountain, great climbing, great history, great everything!!!
m0nkeyboy minus cookies!! 11 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:

Anything on the First pinnacle Rib on East face of Tryfan.
It was my first big mountain route. Climbed it in a three with my uncle and one of our best mates. Just a quality day out, great place, great company.

Anyone fancy it at the Feb meet if weather is ok?

Mb
MB 11 Jan 2005
In reply to J2: Would have to be Track of the cat at Roaches. What moves!
M
 stonewall 11 Jan 2005
In reply to andy farnell:

since its the last climb and Im gonna die anyway, Im going out in a blaze of glory. I'd solo something severely taxing on the Skye Cuillin, and if I made it to the top, I'd sit down, look out over the Hebrides (warm summer evening of course), make my peace and say goodbye.
 pillar 11 Jan 2005
In reply to J2:
Rock climb: Napes Needle on Gable
Scramble: Slab and Notch on Pillar Rock
grubbers ash 11 Jan 2005
In reply to stonewall:The scenario is some terminal condition, the most common one being cancer which I've got. An amble up a moderate is a massive expedition but fabulous in spite of disdainful looks from the hard lads and lasses. No big burn outs or kamikazi stuff. It's beautiful to be able to manage one more route and then, maybe another one.
 Dave C 11 Jan 2005
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to DaveC at Work)
> >> The Axe, Cloggy.
> Great choice, although I would say the gear is much more than adequate, very well protected in fact.


Really? I never felt in any danger when I was on the route but I remember running it out quite a bit in a couple of places. Maybe I just wasn't looking for gear as I remember being somewhat 'psyched' for it and it would not have been the only time I just climbed straight past good pro without even realising it!
Certainly when I was there it had a reputation for being a bit bold and a bit loose in places. I don't remember ever having a bigger buzz after finishing a route!

 sutty 12 Jan 2005
In reply to grubbers ash:

If you had a disabling illness then anyone who looked down on you is stupid and ignorant. if someone wanted to do some last routes then I would go and help them do them even if they were mod or diff and only thirty feet high.

come to that, anyone like to take me up one?

It is the company you are with, not the route that matters. the sitting at the top looking at the sun go down and thinking will it be the same next time that keeps you going.
J2 12 Jan 2005
In reply to grubbers ash:

My Mother was a reasonable climber until she got hit with Breast Cancer, after all the usual treatment and a lot of hope shes still with us 7 years on. Phew! She cant climb now due to the damage the radiation has done to the muscles in her side, this being one of the emotional and psychological issues that cancer has brought her.

It also affects her breathing a lot, she used to stop on stairs due to the pain of it. She worked to get fit and strengthen the damaged areas of her lung, slowly shes got fitter. We both got a thrill when she managed to fight her way to the top of Mam Tor from Castleton, sure for most its a little hill and an easy afternoon waslk, but at that time for my mum it was her Everest. She still hopes to be able to climb a route one day and is getting stronger and more able to recover all the time.

I can understand a little how much of a thrill and achievment that Mod is to you. I wudnt wish to be in ur shoes, but I am envious of that feeling you must have from being able to push the cancer aside, deny it the power it wants over you and have a great day in the hills etc.

If others are too ignorant to share in ur joy of the outdoors, be ignorant of them, they do not matter.
 Andy Farnell 12 Jan 2005
In reply to Dave C: I remember 15 or so pieces of gear in the 160ft of the route, which makes it pretty well protected in my book. Stunning line, amazing positions, fantasic moves, 3* with a cherry on top


Andy F
J2 12 Jan 2005
In reply to sutty:

Cool post Sutty!

Ill volunteer to help almost anyone do any routes, regardless if there ill or not, Helping people climb and realise there climbing dreams is one of my great passions in life. Id be even more willing to help those ill or with last routes, wud be a real honour and privelage.

Drop me a line when the weathers better and Ill hold the rope for you!!!!

(plz no one take the piss and ask me to come be ur belay bitch, read the sentiment in the post)
DaveC at Work 12 Jan 2005
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Dave C) 3* with a cherry on top


Oh yes!

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