UKC

I 16 and go climbing with my mate whos 17 i wanna do my first E1 lead i no i am strong enough for sure i just dont no how to approach it anyone else got any advice
Cheers Rob

In reply to nofearnolimits:

Erm, it's like an HVS lead only slightly harder...
Just find something well protected and take it steady.

And dear god you mean 'know', feckin edukashun system nowadays.

In reply to MeMeMe: cheers i know i crap at spelling thats why i left school to do outdoor persuits instead. cheers for advice

In reply to nofearnolimits:

I'm 42 and started climbing less that 2 and a half years ago.

I mostly climb indoors, 'cos that's easy to get to regularly and isn't weather dependent (or time dependent, going on mileage)

I'm probably strong enough to climb E1, but certainly don't have the headgame for leading it - though do have my eye tentatively on a route or 2 - and want to get a solid background of leading Severes, HS and VS (at least) first...

You'd get better feedback if you give more detail of what routes you have already lead, and as you don't have an RT profile, we know nothing about you.

Even if it is as simple as an E1 on a grit slab is different than an E1 on overhanging Limestone...

Just 'cos you can do one, doesn't necessarily mean you can do the other...

In reply to nofearnolimits: You will be fine.
Just find a route with enough gear to keep it safe but too much so that it is interesting.
My first E1 wa sided triangle at Froggat felt just like a HVS to me but found that seconding Centoaph Corner much harder.
My main advice to you is to make sure that your first E1 is worthy of your time don't cheat yourself by going for a easy climb sometimes you have to struggle a little to get the prize.

Kev

In reply to nofearnolimits:

I don't think that I've ever witnessed such a spectacular butchering of the English language.

I 16 - For f*ck's sake...


As for E1s, something well protected is the obvious suggestion.

In reply to Alex Purser:

<hijack>

http://www.julienne.co.uk/PENCILFACE/MickeyMouseMan-96k.mp3
(about 2.6Mb)

</hijack>

In reply to Dominion:

<encouraging hijack>

Nice one. Coincidentally, was about to check.

</encouraging hijack>

In reply to Alex Purser:

</more hijack>
I told Ju about your pet peeve about HiS USe oF capitalisation, and you can work out whether he has done aNyTHiNg about it from this post!

Sorry!

</final hijack>

Wouldn't have really helped though.
Where is the link on the site?

In reply to Dominion:

Hehe. Noticed. Didn't really expect him to change it.
Spose he's got to keep his "devil may care" rock 'n' roll image
It just would't be rebellion if he caved in and changed it...

:-P

In reply to nofearnolimits: be confident in climbing 5B move[South sandstone,is the best training ground to assesse your grade],my third lead was cenotaph corner that how confident i was after less than a year starting climbing over there.remember that you have nothing to prove to anyone
E1 is just a number,and i think that most of the best climb are more VS/HVS.good luck

In reply to nofearnolimits:

Personally, I think if you have made the step from VS to HVS with reasonable consistency, you have already made the harder transition. Just pick an E1 that suits you and that you won't die on and try it.

In reply to GrahamD:

Yeah, VS-HVS is the biggest grade difference imo.

In reply to nofearnolimits:

Don't rush it, wait for a day when everything's going well and you feel confident leading VS and HVS.

I did my first E1 a couple of weeks ago, I had no intention of doing it that day but after breezing up an HVS before hand it just felt like the right time.

I put loads of gear in it and it was fine.

In reply to James Jackson:

Umm its all realtive to what you operate at - the steps should be similar in magnitude. If not then its individual grading anomalies.

In reply to Yorkspud:

I think VS - HVS is a bigger step than HVS - E1 for two reasons: Pyschologically, HVS is the first grade where it is common place for the crux to be significantly above runners. HVS is also the first grade that many people have to seriously work for. Many people seem to get to VS 4c without undue bother but the progression beyond that requires either significant practice or training.

Once these hurdles are overcome, HVS - E1 is just a bit more of the same.

In reply to GrahamD:

>HVS is also the first grade that many people have to seriously work for.

Moving beyond the beginner stage, in fact, perhaps?!

jcm

In reply to nofearnolimits:
I am just sixteen and i led my first E1 last summer. Whilst it was good, i wish i had waited for longer until i could have done it in really good style. i have done two now but couldnt just go up to any E1 and onsight it which is what i am heading for. Where you from?

Ed

In reply to boothy: i climb my first E1 yesterday first time i was really pleased

In reply to nofearnolimits:

Good effort mate.

In reply to Alex Purser:
Why does it matter how good his English is, you know what he's on about. You are just being rude for the sake of it.

In reply to Andy Ayres:

Well how you present yourself matters to some extent, if your grammar and spelling is poor it makes you look stupid. Of course you might not give a toss how you come over to a bunch of strangers on an internet forum...

Anyway, good one fearnolimits. What was the route?

In reply to Andy Ayres:

Yeah. He got it across, but just look at it!

The ability to string together coherent sentences is sadly becoming less and less important to many.
If he's not corrected, then he's just going to get worse. Next thing, we don't know what he's on about.
Problem.

In reply to Andy Ayres:

Wait a minute. He may have a fraction of an excuse.

In reply to nofearnolimits:

Rob. Are you English?

In reply to jcm:


It depends, doesn't it?

If you're 16 or 17 and been climbing for a few years, then probably yes.

If you're my age (42) and only started climbing a couple of years ago, then it might well be a pretty high target to aim for, with not much expectation of getting much higher.

You've obviously been climbing far too long if you can so sneeringly put down other people's ambitions. You seem to have forgotten (or just discount?) the joy that people can get from making a target, even if it's a low target by your standards.

In reply to Dominion:

I know plenty of 50+ year olds who climb E1+... Age is no excuse!

Anyway, I agree - enjoy what you climb whatever it is.

In reply to James Jackson:

...and how many only started climbing just before turning 40?

In reply to Dominion: I have a friend who started in his early forties about 8 years ago and even now he still regularly climbs 7a - 7a+.

In reply to Gfunk:
out of interest, which route was it ?

In reply to stonewall: it was carnage left at malham cove i was in the mood i cruised up it bring on E2

In reply to Alex Purser: Im english yeah JUST mates wounder with my crap english

In reply to nofearnolimits:

I don't think you're real.

In reply to curlymynci: what

In reply to nofearnolimits:

There's a bloke called 'ivo' who started a thread about meths earlier.
He seems foreign.
He also speaks far better english than you.

In reply to Alex Purser: i can vouch for the lad. he is english. hard to believe by the spelling though i do agree

In reply to big john:

'ivo' or 'nofearnolimits/Rob' ?

In reply to Alex Purser: Rob

In reply to big john:

Are you 'mate whos 17' then?

In reply to nofearnolimits: I spent ages at HVS scared of extremes but one day I tried an E1 and found it easier than some HVS (in my opinion) - once you get over the idea that E grades are different you will be surprised - after 4 years of HVS or less I was climbing E4 within 6 months - go for it and shock yourself as to how little differences there are. If necessary climb it on top rope but as a lead climb (placing gear etc)