UKC

If a climber wanted to tick a progressive list of 20, three starred crack climbs anywhere in England, Scotland or Wales, what might it look like??

Starting difficulty: severe
Finishing difficulty: F7a+ fitness and crux difficulty

In reply to al siddons:

As a low grade punter may I suggest Heather Wall as a starter at Severe.

In reply to al siddons:
The file: higgar
any of the millstone ones
goliath: burbage south
anger and lust: pass of ballater
killing moon: Miekie point

theres loads more that i cant think of now

In reply to al siddons:

There're a series of pillars outside my department which contain smooth vertical cracks about 10" wide. I have no idea what they'd be, gradewise (given that there's no protection, I'd guess HVS or so) but they're great for practising armbars.

In reply to al siddons:
The Pin: Shelterstone Crag

In reply to Wibble Wibble: You could but its only HVD

In reply to D Berry:

I thought someone might say that. You're right: The bottom 2m are Hard, and the rest is V Diff.

In reply to al siddons:

Monolith Crack on the Gribin Facet gets 3 stars in the Paul Williams guide - and worth every one of them imho.

In the Peak, The File is great at VS, the first pitch of Valkyrie at Froggatt (HVS) is fun and Fern Crack at Stanage has some interesting moves. All get 3 stars in at least one guidebook.

In reply to al siddons:

Little known gem - The Tower of Babel, VS 4c, Dovestones Main Quarry; 120ft of superb grit jamming!

In reply to al siddons:

Grond. Oh, Yes.

In reply to stuartf:
Sadist

In reply to al siddons: I'm no crack expert (!), but would have thought you'd have to have Matinee (HVS - The Roaches) and November (E3 Cloggy) in your list.

In reply to al siddons:

It seems to me like stating the obvious, but in terms of the Peak district's 'must do' routes, it would have to feature The File (Higgar Tor - VS 4c) and Regent Street (Millstone - E2 5c). Bond Street (also at Millstone) is another, slightly more contentious contender, at HVS 5a.

In reply to Marc C:

Nah, November isn't really crack climbing, just climbing up a crack (if you follow the distinction!).

jcm

Round the corner from millstone to Curbar for a quick thrash up the pea pod.

In reply to TC:

That CERTAINLY isn't crack climbing!

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:

JCM: Any suggestions, prithee?

In reply to al siddons:

I don't really speak to people who give cracks French grades, but go on then, since you ask nicely.

Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress (Stanage) [not many good pure cracks at severe. Maybe Outlook Crack instead?]
The Crank (Ramshaw) [or half a hundred other grit VS hand-jamming cracks]
The File (Higgar) [ditto]
Broken Crack (Froggatt) [ditto, bit harder]
Bond Street (Millstone) [bit longer and harder]
Matinee (Roaches) [much harder - hands and a bit wider - steeper]
Medusa (Stoney) [semi-offwidth hideousness]
Delstree (Hen Cloud) [all sorts, delicate non-cracky bit but then hands, laybacking, wider]
Masochism (Ramshaw) [THE gritstone HVS hand jamming testpiece, with a thrutchy top pitch for good measure]
The Vice (Stanage) [The OTHER gritstone HVS hand-jamming pitch, steep and with a sting in the tail]
Octo (Cloggy) [hands, fists, tiring]
Indy 500 (Lundy) [hands, goes on for a long time. Not that pure crack climbing, actually]
Embankment 3 (Millstone) [fingers]
Regent Street (Millstone) [fingers but harder]
Ferdinand (Craig y Bustach, North Wales (is that what it's called?) [hands, fists, steep, sustained]
Jetset (Lundy) [hands, very sustained, very pure crack. More fun if soaking wet]
Bender (Lundy) [wider, technical, steep]
Ramshaw Crack (Ramshaw) [hands to fists to offwidth in a roof. A total must]
London Wall (Millstone) [fingers, very pure]
Chemin de Fer (Dumbarton) [fingers but not nearly so pure, I gather]

Not a very good list, but the best I can do off the top of my head. How could I leave Goliath and Right Eliminate out? Mostly quite pure cracks, though, at least. And makes me realise how geographically limited my knowledge is. We could do with at least one layback crack, though. I can't really think of a classic Brit layback in the mode of Ice Cream Crack or lots of other US ones - fortunately. Crew Cut maybe, but has anyone got a good one?

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:

Nice work - thanks for that, and especially for the qualitative bits in square brackets.

In reply to Wibble Wibble:

I'd say it's Diff. Never understood why it's graded so highly. Said this before - it's the same standard as Arrow Crack at Harrison's (2a), or even easier.

In reply to Anonymous:

Way out of my league, but how would things like controlled burning score ?

In reply to al siddons: The only two peak classics are of course the Vice at Stanage End, and Roof Route at Rivelin.

In reply to al siddons:

Isn't there a pretty viceous finger crack to the right side of on Crag Pant Ifan ? finger licker maybe ?

In reply to stuartf:

Monolith Crack is not really crack climbing in that you get inside it (a desperately narrow chimney IOW!).

The File, obviously, and the first pitch of Valkyrie, but Fern Crack, not really, because it involves such a range of climbing techniques.

Other very pure contenders off the top of my head: obviously many of the Millstone ones, the very short Crank at Ramshaw, and Count's Crack at Stanage.

There is a brilliant Severe at Brimham I did last year that was very pure and heavyweight for grade - reminiscent of an offwidth crack in the Alps (will have to look at guidebook.)

The top pitch of Sabre Cut (not that you jam that much on it)

The huge crack at Whatstandwell.

Forked Lightning at Heptonstall (not that I've done it ..!)

In reply to GrahamD:

I actually haven't done CB, but even before the rockfall there were many who said it wasn't quite as good as its reputation, and having once abseiled down it to recover an abseil rope stuck under the boulders by a friend in a moment of incompetence, I can say that it is certainly true that the crack is a bit gritty. Everyone I know who has done both agrees that Jetset and Bender are better, although having said that CB still looked pretty damned good to me from a position some six feet out from the rock.

jcm

In reply to Nick Selmes:

Well, there's Altar Crack at Rivelin - very pure: laybacking or jamming or a mixture of both.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Forked Lightning of course, and how, how, how did I overlook Sentinel Crack?

Not sure about top pitch of Sabre Cut easyish trhutching and not that character-filled IMHO - Valkyrie first pitch, maybe, but very short.

How is Great Crack these days? I did hear that whole quarry was now a jungle.

jcm

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:


I did that on saturday and while its a great route up a crack, its not "crack-climbing". Ok you can use offwidth techniques quite a bit in places but you certainly wouldnt offwidth it alway up - would you? My offwidth-ing is crap and it did seem hard for the grade but I found most of it was laying away of small holds in the depths of the crack and smearing or using small holds for my feet on the left wall.
I agree about Heather Wall being Diff by the way. I we're looking at low grades Id nominate Answer Crak at Dovestones as a Layback.

JCM: Is Broken Crack really harder than the File or the crank? I 2nded it ages ago and fell off but im certain I could do it without much trouble now (I couldnt jam at all then and had only been climbing 3 months), whereas the file has been on my to do list for ages, just the name seems intimidating. Maybe if the weathers good on sunday ill give it a go.

In reply to Si dH:

BC is certainly harder than the Crank - harder than the File, no perhaps not, on reflection, or not much, at least.

BC was a very arbitrary choice: there is nay number of grit cracks of roughly the same characteristics, for example as someone said Count Crack.

Agree with you about Sabre Cut.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:

Great Crack is very much in the shade these days, though apparently still stays in quite good nick. But the whole quarry now is v overgrown, everything looking very green and unclimbed (mind you, haven't taken a look for a year or so, but it's probably worse now)

Yes, Sabre Cut shouldn't be on the list. It's fine bridging really, with hidden sideholds on the crack and very little jamming.

On your v.good list I would take issue only with RH RH crack, or whatever it's called. Because, brilliant and classic as it is, it is not pure crack climbing at all, mostly climbing on rounded horizontal breaks. (But I still regard it as a kind of Desert Island rock climb, a la D I Discs)

What about Wellington Crack at Ilkley (has anyone mentioned that??)

The Foil on the Cromlech? I can only go by appearance, but it looks pretty pure.

The Grond, also, has been forgotten.

In reply to Si dH:

I'm not convinced Broken Crack is harder than the File or the Crank. I've always rather liked it. It comes in stages, not so relentless as F or C, but perhaps a bit more complicated, subtle etc.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Agree about RHRHBD, I didnt use the crack much at all either time ive done it.
How about South Chimney Layback at Almscliff as a Severe jamming testpiece? You certainly can't climb it any other way, as much as ive seen people try and do as the name suggests...

In reply to al siddons:
Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow VS
ROck Idol at Pembroke E1
Cenotaph of course
The Crack on Gimmer VS

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

God yes, what happened to Grond??

Actually there are too many HVSs and E2s and not enough E1s, is the truth.

Foil: not really, not crack climbing at all. Too many face holds (not that I could hold on to them)

RHRHRH whatever - kind of agree. There aren't any good Severe cracks really.

WC - yes, good call.

jcm

jcm

In reply to Mike Hall:

Nah, Cenotaph is a corner, not a crack at all. So is Rock Idol. JJ - perhaps, in a nasty-polished-limestone kind of way.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:

they have cracks going up them don't they?

In reply to Si dH:

Well, my memory of Sabre Cut is from 1968. That pitch had virtually no gear, was v intimidating from the bottom, but the incredible thing I remember was that you put your hand deep inside the crack and found this incredible hidden sidehold/continuous flange, and then just walked up it - any onlooker might have thought you were brilliant at jamming but you were just shuffling your hand up this edge for 40 or 50 feet, feet bridging out on quite good stuff, or has my memory exaggerated just how nice it was?

In reply to Mike Hall: so can be defined as a corner crack along with lots of others mentioned above

In reply to Anonymous: what about F route on gimmer, not that I've done it yet

In reply to MattG:

great route but it is in a bit of a corner at the top so don't know whether it counts

In reply to Anonymous:

Quite a challenge. Are there any Severe cracks that qualify?

Angular Chimney on the Gribin Facet? I recall that being v hard of the grade (I think "V Diff" - in which case about HVS compared with Heather Wall at Froggatt). Lots of arm jams, off-width fist jams etc ... or, again, has my memory got it wrong??

In reply to Anonymous:

Aladdin Sane is surely a better crack climb at E2, fingery and not polished apart from the very bottom bit.

Slate has some of the best and purest cracks, although the very best, Stiff Little Fingers, is sadly no more.

On grit, no-one's mentioned Bob Hope. I haven't dared even approach it yet!

In reply to Mike Hall:

F Route should definitely be in the list, because there's a lot of jamming on it, and the crux depends on quite hard jamming (IIRC)

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
the route that really made me think I needed to learn to jam properly was the Rasp (Higgar Tor) - had a desparate time & I was seconding

& I never could get up Majorie Razorblade on either end of the rope (Dunkeld)

In reply to Mike Hall:

Strange .. but I wouldn't include Jean Jeannie somehow. Again because I think you do very few pure jamming moves on the route.

Cobweb Crack on the Cromlech is much more of a jamming route, isn't it? Done it twice but can't remember it v well.

Lorraine on the Mot had some very fine, clean, pure jamming pitches on it, if I remember rightly.

In reply to Doug:

Well, I seconded the Rasp and just failed to reach the finishing hold, i was so pumped. I remember that, although there was a lot of jamming moves, there was also a lot of v strenous and reachy jug hauling, so not sure how jamming technique would help much.

In reply to al siddons:

Sandy Crack in Northumberland has to be in there.

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Oh, and Comes the Dervish - Vivian Qy too

In reply to al siddons:

Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow VS defo

Instead of sabre cut do dives next but then on both of them u really dont climb the crack much

Mortician on black crag in borrowdale is amazin for HVS

In reply to al siddons: Has anyone done Left-Hand Crack E2 5c at Dunkeld in Scotland? It looks AMASING but I'm not quite good enough to do it yet. Think it gets 2 stars.

In reply to Anonymous:
Jetset (Lundy) - Good
Bender (Lundy) - Good

The Great Divide (Lundy) [sustained, gently overhanging, elbow-hand - even better]

In reply to Gordon Stainforth & John Cox:

See my post at 16.43, you pair of dorks.

In reply to al siddons:
great crack in robin hood quarry nr whatstandwell is a great route, about 50 ft of hand jamming but it needs to have been really dry b4 you can climb it

In reply to Cosmic John:

Yes, sorry mate, noticed that later. But you were still the only person to mention it.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Sabre Cut still has no gear
I got some half-decent stuff fiddled in on the bottom half, but then my nut jus tabove half height fell out and I was probably looking at decking until I finally found another small nut placement in a slot at the top. The small crack in side the big one takes the odd placement but is mostly rubbish and flared. It certainly helps for your hands but I wouldnt say it was that good - Id much ratherhave a decent jam! If you had several size 5 friends sabre cut would be ver ysafe, i took a friend 4 in hope and it was too small the whole way up (got it in one small narrowing where it soon walked and fell out).
Dives is also a nice route as someone said (did that just before sabre cut) but doesnt even have a crack in it really.

In reply to Si dH:

OT, but Better Things is absolutely brilliant, and the top pitch of Curfew, even better still (in fact I can't remember quite such a good finish to any climb.)

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Agreed, the exposure on the top pitch of dives/better things is great, theres a nobvious wide bridging move on it then you look through your legs and see your car...wow. Where's curfew?

back on topic, lower grade cracks - prow cracks variations (the nasty offwidth by chalkstorm) at the roaches has me completely stumped. HVD and I couldnt even second it properly, fell off trying to offwidth so ended up laybacking at at least 4c.

In reply to Si dH:
Although I wouldnt give prow cracks 1 star, never mind 3.

In reply to Si dH:

It's an E1 to the buttress to the right, but it finishes up the arete just right of the final groove of Better Things in an absolutely superb position on lovely pockety holds c. 4c.

In reply to al siddons: Birch Tree Wall Black Rock VS 5A
Left half my hands in that one.
All the best Rob

In reply to al siddons: Laugh Knot White Ghyll HVS 5A. Amen corner on B route Gimmer I think its like vdiff 5a.
Procrastination Cracks Glyder Fawr vs4b Continuation Crack on Continuation wall above Idwal Slabs.hvs 5a
All the best
Rob













pr

In reply to Si dH:


I think i did point that out at the end of my post. But hay what a climb. No matter how hard you climb routes like this remind you that you u dont have to climb hard in britain to enjoy some awesome routes and the pass really has some of the best lower grade routes

Also like to thank everyone else whos posted for giving me such a huge wish list of good carck routes. ohhhhhh so little time so many good lines

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

He didn't mention jamming just cracks, you are correct you don't need to jamm JJ, also I didn't jam F route either though i love jamming, I remember that to be more laybacking

In reply to Rob Platt:

Yes, good call. Very pure, though most of the difficulty is in the first 15 ft, then it eases a bit with perfect jams, but is still quite strenuous.

In reply to al siddons:
Did anyone mention the classics at Ramshaw?
Ramshaw Crack, Browns Crack, prostration, dons crack, the press etc etc etc.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:Thats where I left the skin.
All the best
Rob

In reply to Dave Garnett:

>Aladdin Sane is surely a better crack climb at E2, fingery and not polished apart from the very bottom bit.

You mean Cracked Actor, presumably. Aladdinsane is a hideous Medusa-style affair, only nastier, and I'm not sure I've spelled it right either. CA is not really a crack either - as you say fingery on face holds.

Slate - OK, now here is one; The Mancer direct start. Anyone done that? Or Dinorwig Unconquerable - how does that measure up? Not The Mau Mau - too many holds.

jcm

In reply to Frank Cannings:

A man who should know! (Haven't done it - Golden Gate looked more inviting!)

In reply to Cosmic John:

I know - I was saying how on earth could I leave it out after you reminded me.

In reply to smellyfox:

I did mention Ramshaw Crack - the rest of them; not that pure, except Brown's Crack. Masochism as I said, and Imposition is another good one there. Hanging Crack at Dovestones deserved a mention.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:
also the stunnung "crank" at a more amenable grade!
(Ramshaw)

In reply to al siddons:

Plum Line & Calamity Crack @ Running Hill Pits
Bob Hope & Gate Post Crack @ Dovestones Quarry
Parkers Eliminate and Crews Route @ Hobson Moor
International and Frisky after Whisky @ Kilt Rock
Minions Way & Desperation Crack @ Brimham
Post Mortem & Gimmer Crack - The Lakes

There are just too many and some single pitches on multi-pitch routes would meet the requirements

In reply to al siddons:

Not done either, but Minion's Way at Brimham (HVS) gets 3 stars - overhanging hand jamming to start, and then it looks like laybacking above that. Also, Gimmer Crack's supposed to be quite good, although I've not done that either and have heard that it's not really crack climbign.

I mentioned Monolith Crack, because it's called "crack", and gets 3 stars. And it's a great laugh.

In reply to al siddons:
the crack [crystal palace]severe
the crack [brixton wall]very severe
corronation crack [hight rock]5c
the strand [anglesey]E2

In reply to al siddons:

Also Hanging Crack and Answer Crack @ Dovestones Edge, how could I forget them. They are as good as anything at these grades in the UK.

In reply to stuartf:

How about Integrity (MVS) on Sron na Ciche (Skye) - although again it follows a crack rather than being a "pure" crack-climb. Stunning situation though - it's certainly a route on my ticklist. I've been at the bottom of it twice, but both times the person I was with was to tired to give it a shot, and one time it was already quite late.

In reply to al siddons: Back again. The Bruvvers hvs 5a? and King Bee Crack hvs both Holyhead Mountain.
All the best
Rob

In reply to al siddons: Constables Overhang E5 6B (and at least 7a in anyone's money) Wilton 3. A short technical wall leads to a very very fierce overhanging finger crack. Good gear, but very powerful and pumpy. F.A. Hank Pasquill 1973.
Must have been one of the hardest routes in the country at the time, and much under-rated.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

>(and at least 7a in anyone's money)

I bet it is. Not that I've ever done it, but I once walked underneath it, raised my hat, and walked away again.

jcm

In reply to brixton climber:

Interesting that you should mention Coronation Crack at HR, because that is about as pure as it comes, but most mere mortals of course will be on a top rope. Also brilliant, Marquita and Lucita (also 5c), and the appalling Beanstalk ""5b"". At Harrison's, Witches Broomstick, also 5c.

In reply to stuartf:

Integrity is a fabulous climb, more on account of its line and position, rather than its climbing. I definitely wouldn't describe it as a 'crack climb' as such, even though there's a lot of crack climbing on it. Mostly slab climbing and bridging, aided by the crack.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Coronation Crack, of course, is one of those specialist High Rocks things that shocks a few people with its gnarliness at that grade.

In reply to andy farnell:

Not one I'll be attempting any time soon. I'm starting at the easy end of this mega-list, and that'll keep me busy enough!

Anything at Millstone or Lawrencefield partic
Regent St,Oxford St,Coventry St,London Wall, Billy Whizz

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Krankenkopf Crack [sort of easier Vice]

jcm

In reply to al siddons:

You must have a go at Coronation Crack. Far more basic, reasonable, fundamental etc, than the horribly thin and technical thing by the same name at Harrisons. And there's a secret to it ... makes it much easier. Email me if you want some hints.

In reply to Anonymous:

Krankenkopf is stupendous, and totally classic. A wonderful piece of really thuggy, quite old-fashioned, climbing for its height. Great your comparison with the horrible Vice. That will put SE sandstoners in their place!

In reply to stuartf:

Dear stuart

I remember it as a good route, when I did it in 1967.

Norrie

In reply to al siddons:
I havn't done most of these - some of them are best admired from a distance.

Balluster Crack - Ravensheugh
Ravensheugh Crack - Ditto
Sandy Crack - Sandy Crag
Muscle Crack - Raven Crag
Fern Crack - Stanage
Integrity - I seem to remember lots of jamming.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

I suppose it was only Severe then though. It was Severe when my dad did it, and that was probably a few years after you.

In reply to Anonymous:

What about Mulligan's Wall? Really fantastically fierce - still given just straight 5c (I wonder). I've never got up it, but have done the wonderful variation called Bludgeon, where you break out of it near the top and traverse right. Makes an unusually long route (by SE S standards) . A lot of very good 5c climbing on it.

In reply to al siddons:

Monolith Crack
The Trap
Chequers Crack
Cave routes
Citadel
WInking
Lockwoods Chimney
Grond
Neb Direct
Fingerlicker
Last Tango in Paris
And so many more

In reply to andy farnell:
Well done andy I thought Wilton was'nt going to get a mention.
Falling Crack Wilton 2
KP Wilton 1
plus some of the horror shows at pembroke

In reply to Anonymous:

Don't forget Initiation at Egerton

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Interesting, I thought general consensus was that Mulligan's was easier than Bludgeon, however the crack section is the same on both routes and is really only a couple of esential crack moves. Yes The Vice at Stanage is a great fight and, to me, felt harder than Krankenkopf, a superb route though.

Other great SS cracks include Curling Crack at Stone Farm [short and easy but very good], Long Layback at Harrisons [someone asked about laybacks], Lucita, Marquita and Coronation at High Rocks [as already mentioned] and a grade or two up Boysens and First Crack at High Rocks

Having done Controlled Burning last year, shortly before the demise of its upper section, I thought it a superb crack climb, in spite of its gritty nature.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Think I've ticked all the High Rocks candidates over the years, including coronation crack, which deserves its stars for its sustained nature as well as for its intricacies.

In reply to pigeonjim:

I'll second that. Thanks to everyone for your ideas. I love a thread that keeps on going

In reply to al siddons:

I tend to jam everything I can as I'm better at that than hanging on to holds so perhaps I see more climbs as crack climbs than others might.

For VS I would say that Cobweb Crack is one of the best I've done in the UK. Steep, exposed, and one continuous crack. I'm sure I used some face holds or in the crack holds, but also many jams.

Bulls Crack at Heptonstall (?) is also good. Much longer than most grits routes that are famous. Pheonix at Shinig Clough has a number of pure jamming moves and whilst it isn't as butch as things like the Crank, its longer, quieter and better positioned.

On granite... hmmm Leviathan at the Dewerstone is nice and quite a lot of fingers to hands IIRC. The one at Sheep Tor (?) that there is a photo of in the Devon guide is good as well... HVS can't remember the name.

I remember using the crack all the way up Integrity as well, so I'd say its a crack route... Trying to think of something else Scottish for some regional balance but nothing imnpressive springs to mind. Requiem is an obvious but I haven't done it and its a bit harder than 7a!!! Some minor local Glasgow classics come to mind - at Dumby Stonefall Crack Direct, at Craigmore Sabre and Stilleto cracks are good, Vampire Crack up on the Whangie but not likely to known further afield.

In reply to Anonymous:


You're right. Medusa is what contributes the polished start.

In reply to al siddons:

A couple of other contenders for consideration:

Cairngorm Club Crack on Clach na Beinn - Severe, and something of a full body affair

Black Custard, Pass of Ballater - E1 5b, and appeared in Steve Crowe's Magic Grades E1 list in OTE a wee while back

Not a bit fan of it myself, but a lot of people seem to enjoy Westering Home, at Reiff. E1 5b in the guide, and taking a thin crack up a steep slabby wall.

In reply to Stuart S:
Some of the other routes at Clach na Beinn might count too, long time since I've been there but isn't Bogendreip buttress mostly jamming ?

Lots of cracks on routes such as the Needle (eg 'the crack for thin fingers pitch'), although maybe not a lot of jamming per se

Scar at Baildon Bank. Lower section is a fine crack.

In reply to Doug:

Yeah, it was a case of which of the Clach na Beinn routes to mention. Crack o the Mearns is another obvious one, along with Maneater, Gnasher and Rough Rider.

But Cairngorm Club Crack is my favourite, which was why I plumped for it.

The Pin has already got a vote from higher up the thread, but the Needle would also be worth a look. The Magic Crack is another one (if you can cope with the crampon scars!)

In reply to al siddons: Shangri-La at Baggy has got to be in there, somewhere at the start (HS)

In reply to Wibble Wibble: High quality route and one i always do when i have the uncomfortable desire to climb with the masses. However, i'm not sure i'd rate it as a great crack climb in the purest sense. Has to be the file, Higg. at least, and i'm sure both sunset crack and

In reply to Mark Page: ....and heather wall both at Froggatt are great severe crack climbs.

In reply to al siddons:
Date Line at Pex Hill, E2/3 5c
Supercrack at Wilton E3
Both great test pieces for their grade
The Strand is a good E2 on Upper Tier, Maincliffe, Gogarth

In reply to al siddons:
Physche and Burn - that was the one I was thinking of - Crag Pant Ifan - technical 6b. I haven't a clue about how good it is but it does look stunning even from the road and it did get *** before the CC made the ridiculous decision to drop stars.

In reply to Gary Smith: Agree with dateline at E2 sustained climbing on fingerlocks, cobweb crack is no where near as good though.

In reply to Swirly: club crack on the cobbler, burn at both ends- cambusbarron, internationale- kilt rock

Top pitch of Void at Tremadoc is quite simply superbe.. as is Fingerlicker

In reply to al siddons:

Another one that I've seen that looks rather cool (but haven't got a hope of doing) is Superjam at Sennen - an awesome looking roof-crack. Has anyone on here done it?

In reply to al siddons:

Bob Hope is probably the nearest I've ever climbed in the U.K. to resemble an American crack experience i.e. feet and hands only in the crack.

Well worth seeking out and a great on-sight challenge being safe, technical and very strenuous.

In reply to al siddons:

Dunno how many stars, but there are a number of excellent cracks at Armathwaite in the HVS - E2 range offering differnt styles of climbing.

Cally Crack, Jelly Terror, Y Front and Codpiece are all worthy of note.

In reply to stuartf:

No - we went to look at it once on a wet day and it looked utterly desperate turning the roof.

In reply to someone higher up: no way is the top pitch of Void a crack climb; nor is Cobweb Crack, really. Bob Hope was a good call though, and the 20 feet of Winking Crack that are crack climbing are quite fun also. Strand isn't crack climbing either.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:

Anyone care to rise to the challenge of defining a crack climb? There are obviously several takes on what appears to be a straightforward question.

In reply to al siddons:

Would say crack climbing is climbing a crack.

A crack being a fracture in rock, not the rock itself, so is in fact empty space.

Therefore a crack climber would be someone capable of climbing thin air. Maybe a mime artist or someone experienced in levitation

Not sure this logic holds but would say a crack climb would be where the crack is integral to the climbing and starts at one point of a crack (begining maybe) and finishes at another point (the top perhaps). The crack would be more than just somewhere to stick protection in but not necessarily contain every hold or feature used in the climb.

Maybe the purer the crack climb the less features outside the crack you use.

Just my thoughts....

In reply to Cambridge:

A good, pure crack climb, surely, is one in which you are using the crack alone as a 'hold' (jamming or layback techniques), and that what's taking your full weight, or most of it i.e no conventional holds are used at all, and certainly no extraneous holds, outside the crack, particularly if it is less than vertical. That's why I said that Integrity is not really a crack climb (in this strict sense).

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Bob Hope is a good example af a crack climb, all finger(hand) holds, good footholds - except poor smears and gear are within the crack system itself.

I'm suprised people have missed all the Wimberry classic cracks from this list.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Presumably this means that chimneys classify as cracks, since you don't use holds outside them to climb them? It just tends to be full-body jamming rather than hand/fist/finger...

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Dear Gordon

You are right in the strict sence, however, within reason, it is a crack climb as apposed to a "walk" up the slab.

Norrie

In reply to craig h:

Bob Hope looks brilliantly pure (way, way beyond my ability). Yes, most of the Chew valley always gets surprisingly overlooked ... just what are Manchester climbers up to, I often wonder? Just one very good crack at Wimbery, though it is in a corner, is of course Route II. There's a wonderful twin crack MVS thing at Standing Stones, too. Very pure jamming.

Amazon Crack at Burbage N, quite pure too.

In reply to stuartf:

Yes, of course they are cracks, the only difference being that you are inside them - which is not, of course, what climbers typically mean by the term 'crack'.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:


Yes good call I'd forgotten about that one, sort of laybacking off jams all the way up I seem to remember.

Which would you say are the best ones at Stanage from HS to HVS? Ive got a vague plan on sunday to go and do as many jamming routes as I can there and then head over to Higgar to finish off.

In reply to Si dH:

Gosh, I really must get on with some work!

I really can't remember many good ones at Stanage.

Two that stand out at HVS (and very heavyweight) are Surgeon's Saunter and Terraza Crack. Fern Crack is v good, but much more than just a crack climb. Ditto Goliath's Groove.

At Higgar Tor you will surely do the File.

In reply to Si dH:

Avril (HS) is short & sharp. Valediction (HVS) is strenuous & hard. February crack (HS) is a corner, but I seem to remember jamming up it. Curving Crack (HS) is a classic offwidth, Hell Crack is fun if you haven't done it (and pretty easy at VS). You could try Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct, only using the crack...

Innaccessible crack is good, with both jamming & laybacking, Robin Hood's Cave Innominate is OK, you can try Harding's Superdirect finish if you're feeling brave. Fern Crack is also good, with lots of varied techniques required....

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:


The Chew's London Wall, shame it doesn't get the same traffic or status - but then again it's what makes the Chew special.

>There's a wonderful twin crack MVS thing at Standing Stones, too. Very pure jamming.

Twin Crack Corner, would be a polished horror if at Stanage, but for people who are willing to go a bit out of the way It's a hidden gem along with quite a few more here.

In reply to al siddons:
Surprised that Emerald and Sentinel cracks at Chatsworth have not been mentioned. Have only done Emerald but clearly remember hauling up that top crack on ever fading arms. Also P1 of the Wasp at Tremadog (as the guide mentions - close to being a gritstone crack without actually being one).

In reply to al siddons: some of the best ive done.
crank -ramshaw
unfinished symphony-burbage
ramshaw crack-?
mau mau-slate
did tom thumb at cratclif yesterday,really good.out of the classic e2's there the only one worth e2.tried reticent mass murderer,fookin despo.
masachism-ramshaw

In reply to craig h:

what grade is the Chew's London Wall, btw?

In reply to al siddons:

E4 5C, I think...isn't it given 5.11 in the BMC guide?

In reply to al siddons:

E4 6a ***,
worth a trip to do all the 4 classic Bancroft E4's in the Chew

In reply to al siddons:

Tilly Lamp Crack, High Rocks - short and very sweet........

In reply to al siddons: Great Harry at Lawrencefield and the first pitch of Shadrach at Tremadog get my vote.

In reply to john horscroft:

Aha - the old war wound twitches. Don't remember this being much of a crack either. The sand-covered top-out is really what sticks in the mind.

As was said above, a crack climb means a climb where you use only/mainly the crack for progress, not one where you merely climb up a face with a crack in the general vicinity.

jcm

In reply to john horscroft:

Short and very hard. (I could make very little impression on it.) But as JCM says, it's not really crack climbing - some finger-jamming type holds but mostly it's just desperately fingery stuff around the crack, isn't it? And it all runs out anyway.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yes. Bit of a shock to the system unless you're familiar.

BTW, did you know that Giles Taylor did the first ever solo of Nemesis (the neighbouring and better known route, albeit nothing to do with crack climbing) last year?

Finale HVS++! at Shepherds?

Innominate Crack VS, Gable?

Both may not be the most pure of crack climbs but, well, if you don't use the crack you'd be pretty well stuffed.

In reply to JonC:

Innominate Crack used to be Mild VS. I did it twice in the 70s. Very little comment in my log book, and my recollection is that it was absolutely fine at the grade. But it is crack climbing.

In reply to al siddons:

No, I hadn't heard that. Someone else, obviously, with awesome ability.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

PS. Mind you, I thought it had already been done.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

He was definitely the first soloist.

In reply to al siddons:

BTW, great photo gallery. I'm a big fan on b/w and you've got some crackers here.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Why does everyone (incl your good self) immediately question or comment about the grade of a route. I'm merely quoting the current grade give in the FRCC Gable guide. The point is, it's one of the few Lakeland routes I can think of which says "I'm a crack, climb me".

In reply to JonC:

I wasn't querying anything, just pointing out how it's been traditionally graded until very recently (now that it's a rather less daunting prospect with modern boots and protection). I agree completely with your sentiments in your second sentence. It's a classic pitch.

In reply to JCM:

>I can't really think of a classic Brit layback...

Insanity @ Curbar ???

In reply to JCM

It's only relatively short (12m) but the name says it all. Long Layback at Simonside is a belter of a VS -- Northumberland of course --, best climbed as a bold layback. ( It's just too wide to jam unless you've hands the size of shovels, and it was certainly bold before cams and big hexes were invented!

In reply to Derbyshire Ben:

Anvil Chorus? Looks good, although I haven't done it.

In reply to al siddons:

for those wanting something to imagine progressing towards...entertaining vids of american crack gurus engaged in various levels of insane crack climbing at indian creek

http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/initial.html

go to extras, vids, parallelojams. 3 movies.

apologies for the slightly off topic digression.

In reply to al siddons:
Can't give a proper answer as I don't operate above E1/E2. But as an improper answer I can propose the following:
June Crack grade SI
Princess Margarets Crack VI
Princess Margarets Other Crack EI

Grading Note
SI = Slightly Improper
VI = Very Improper
EI = Extremely Improper

Indy 500 - Lundy
Lost Horizon - Baggy

In reply to al siddons: Golden Tower E2 5c and Gates of Perception E4/5 6a, both at Anglezarke.

Barbarella E5 6a, Trevallen, pembroke.

Andy F

In reply to al siddons:
Any of the three main cracks on Cracked Buttress at Brimham, from left to right VS 4c, VS 5a, VS 4b.

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:
And Australia Crack. What about Fairhead - its virtually all cracks and everyone a classic. Cullachain has to be the worlds best E25b.
Mike Hammill