UKC

I am planning a trip to the Pyrenees during the first week of August and have a few questions:
1. Is it possible to do the South-East ridge of Pica d’Estats without ice axe and crampons?
2. Is it possible to climb Pico de Aneto without ice axe and crampons?
3. Has anyone traversed the mountain ascending the Cresta de los portilliones and desending Arista Norte? Can this be done in August without ice axe and crampons, what grade would it be?
Thanks for your advice
Rangitoto

In reply to RANGITOTO:

You could probably do most of the peaks at that time of year without axe / crampons, depends on the route you take.

I have not done the Pico D'Estats so can't comment on that one.

Pico Aneto by the normal route is graded "Facil" easy. You could probably get away without axe & crampons as there will be a well trodden path to the summit across whats left of the glacier. Be prepared to join the queue to get across the Pente de Mohamed at the summit. As an alternative you could try the Via de los Descalzos which is the ridge that takes you up from the Coll de Coronas to the top. This avoids the steepest part of the glacier and is graded AD. You would need a rope and slings to protect yourself.

The Cresta de Portillones takes you to the summit of the Pico Maladeta it is graded AD and again you would need rope and slings.

To try to do the whole ridge to the summit of Aneto would be a major undertaking . You would probably be better off missing out Pico Maldito and re-joining the ridge at the Collado de Medio and doing the Pico de Coronas then down to the Coll de Coronas. There is some difficult climbing along the ridge at the Punta de Astorg between Maldito and Medio.

Try to get hold of the magazine Desnivel Nº225 this has a special on all the routes around Aneto. Or the book "3404 Aneto" you should be able to get both at Barrabes in Benasque.

JH

> 1. Is it possible to do the South-East ridge of Pica d’Estats without ice axe and crampons?

Very probably.


It's probably possible, but not very wise.

I have no comment on number 3, as I haven't done the route.

In reply to RANGITOTO:
I would take an axe for Aneto. The glacier is easy enough without crampons but I'd rather carry an axe than think as I slid off - wish I'd bothered!
If you set off early - like 5 or so you are likely to be the first on the top as the Spanish aren't early risers! I had the summit to myself for 45 minutes - it was FANTASTIC!

Ross

In reply to RANGITOTO:

Aneto - much the same as what's already said. Plenty of people were doing it in the middle of July last year without axe or crampons - but that would be a bit hairy for my taste. The last snow to the summit is steep, and if you did slip, stopping without an axe would very difficult, and you'd end up a long way down the glaicer.

You'd probably be OK with just an axe - or whilst we were there, a runner came up with trainers and crampons, no axe. Either approach (take measures to stop yourself slipping, or something to stop you if you do) seems an improvement over nothing!

We did the Cresta de los Portillones as part of a different day out (I think - if this is the ridge above the col you cross to reach the glacier on the normal route?) - no particularly hard climbing, a lot of unstable granite blocks with the occassional easy pitch. Didn't need crampons to get to the start/on the ridge. Can't say for the rest of the route.