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Climbing in Wicklow

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 Nic M 10 Sep 2005
Hi Folks,

Am going to a wedding in Ireland in October, convieniently newar Wicklow. Anyone got any recomendations as to crags, routes etc?

Do you need insurance to climb in Ireland?
 BenTiffin 10 Sep 2005
In reply to Nic M: There is a guidebook to the place. I went there years ago and climbed at a place called Hollywood - the village even had the letters on the hillside above it.

Anyway, the crag was about 15m high and located on the west side of the mts, having driven over a mountain pass from the rathdrum area.

Hope this helps

Ben
 Doug 11 Sep 2005
In reply to BenTiffin: I climbed at Glendalough some 20 years ago, good granite crag, mostly single pitch, maybe a few 2 pitch routes in a nice setting overlooking a lake. At the time it was the considered to be the best crag in the area by the locals, worth a visit if in your in the area anyway.
In reply to Nic M:
Climbed at Glendalough a couple of weeks ago - very nice views, but a fairly long walk in (hour or so, bit of a slog).
The climbing was nice - a bit vegitated in parts.
sloper 11 Sep 2005
In reply to cantthinkofaname: The bouldering at glendalough is superb.
 Chris Fryer 12 Sep 2005
In reply to Nic M: We climbed in Glendalough a few years back. Nice mountain routes on good rough granite, in a fantastic setting. Hollywood is OK for roadside evening stuff too.
Clauso 12 Sep 2005
In reply to Nic M:

Glendalough is the prime location for climbing in Wicklow. Good quality cragging and bouldering in a scenic location.

Hollywood does not offer as much climbing as Glendalough. It's really a minor crag and is currently experiencing access restrictions. Last I heard, the new owner had banned climbers from his land. Ireland does not enjoy the benefit of the enlightened countryside access that the UK does.

Take a look at the Wicklow section in the online crag guide on www.climbing.ie. The guide includes route descriptions. The news section may have an update on the Hollywood situation.
 GrahamD 12 Sep 2005
In reply to cantthinkofaname:

Glendalough is not a slog by mountain crag standards - mostly on a well made level path with just a bit of a pull up to the crag at the end. Superb spot - lovely climbing.
Clauso 12 Sep 2005
In reply to GrahamD:

I did a double-take when I saw the walk in to Glendalough being referred to as a slog, too!

... I wonder what cantthinkofaname would make of some of the Scottish approaches?
 Chris Fryer 12 Sep 2005
In reply to GrahamD: One of the most beautiful walk ins I have been on. Flat and easy, with amazing scenery.
In reply to Clauso:
I guess it took us about 45 mins, I just remember that last bit being a bit tedious.
Sometimes I just want to park and climb...

I intended to do tower ridge last year though, and I guess
that was quite a walk in with the gear we had, but I didn't
mind then, as the main goal was to climb ben nevis. Unfortunately, the weather became crap, so we went up some gully instead, faffed around on the top with a compass for a while (zero visability, although I gather that's fairly usual), and then escorted a group of people in jeans and trainers down the mountain....

shurug 13 Sep 2005
In reply to Nic M:

how convenient to Wicklow? Going by ferry? Good quarry just south of dun laoghaire...dalkey quarry, worth a visit if you have the time
 Paul Winder 14 Sep 2005
In reply to Nic M: At Glenalough Quartz Gully, Prelude-Nightmare and Sarcophagus are all excellent with the last being my favourite.

Quartz has a fine middle pitch, Prelude-Nightmare a small and exposed final stance and Sarcophagus has an absorbing main pitch (lace-able though the first ascentionist only had one sling!)

Watch out for the midges!


highwayman 14 Sep 2005
In reply to Paul Winder: perfumed ponce
 Paul Winder 15 Sep 2005
In reply to highwayman: hey up punter, how's the golf?

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