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The winner of the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature will be announced on October 7th. So whose going to win? This is the line up.
Learning to Breathe, by Andy Cave
On Thin Ice, by Mick Fowler
The Villain: the Life of Don Whillans, by Jim Perrin
Broad Peak, by Richard Sale
Mountain Rescue Chamonix - Mont Blanc, by Anne Sauvy
Only Jim Perrin with his biography of Menlove Edwards has won before.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Only Jim Perrin with his biography of Menlove Edwards has won before.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to UKC News:
A thread about literature with a grammatical mistake in the title. Oh the irony.
A thread about literature with a grammatical mistake in the title. Oh the irony.
In reply to Craig_M: I imagine the Anne Sauvy book is a translation of her 'Secours en Montagne' - has a book in translation ever won the BT before ? (have any been in the final round before ?)
In reply to UKC News:
Andy Cave'd be my bet.
Fowler isn't a very good writer imnsho.
Perrin's won before and 'The Villain' is a bit flawed imnsho
Don't know the Sale one
Sauvy is just too frightfully 'luvvy' (or something). Bit like a female Perrin.
Hmm. Might well be Sauvy or Perrin then...
Andy Cave'd be my bet.
Fowler isn't a very good writer imnsho.
Perrin's won before and 'The Villain' is a bit flawed imnsho
Don't know the Sale one
Sauvy is just too frightfully 'luvvy' (or something). Bit like a female Perrin.
Hmm. Might well be Sauvy or Perrin then...
In reply to UKC News:
Based on my not having read any of the books on the list and only having read reviews of three of them, I'd plump for Andy Cave. Then again, it does depend rather on who is doing the judging, and if they're all Jim Perrin's mates, he might squeeze through.
Based on my not having read any of the books on the list and only having read reviews of three of them, I'd plump for Andy Cave. Then again, it does depend rather on who is doing the judging, and if they're all Jim Perrin's mates, he might squeeze through.
In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run: I'd second those feelings
In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run: Another vote for Caves book. Funnily enough I found the pre-climbing part more interesting than the climbing bit! But a very readable writer, and a subject ironically close to the awards history i.e PB and JT.
Iain
Iain
In reply to UKC News: should be Cave, will probably be Perrin...
In reply to scawf vu:
Andy Cave's book is the only one on the list I've read, although I've read a couple of Anne Sauvy's other books (one collection of short stories, the other a sort of documentary about Chamonix) & didn't think much of either.
Isn't Perrin's book due out in paperback soon ?
Andy Cave's book is the only one on the list I've read, although I've read a couple of Anne Sauvy's other books (one collection of short stories, the other a sort of documentary about Chamonix) & didn't think much of either.
Isn't Perrin's book due out in paperback soon ?
In reply to UKC News: having read the Cave, Fowler and Perrin books I think it will be an incredibly close run thing, all are truly exclent books and it is unfortunate for the authors that they have all come out in the same year because all are deserving of winning. But I would say Learning to breath by Andy Cave. It was one of the most facinating books I have ever read, esspicialy the stuff about the miners sticks and the minning comunities
In reply to UKC News: Having read four of the five (not the Anne Sauvy) I would go for Cave. Fowler - enjoyable but not superb, Perrin flawed and won before. Sale - very workmanlike and a good reinterpretaton. Cave is actually quite literary(?)although I am sure on page 219 when he congratulates Brendan on a superfluous lead he would have preferred to have said superlative.
In reply to Pedro50:
Actually more likely to have been a spellcheck correction which crept under the editor/s nose.
Ands
> Cave is actually quite literary(?)although I am sure on page 219 when he congratulates Brendan on a superfluous lead he would have preferred to have said superlative.
Actually more likely to have been a spellcheck correction which crept under the editor/s nose.
Ands
In reply to Ian Hill:
A very wise prediction - but I still think Cave will get it.
> (In reply to UKC News) should be Cave, will probably be Perrin...
A very wise prediction - but I still think Cave will get it.
In reply to tony:
Your remark is gratuitously insulting to the integrity of the judges. Steve Dean is the Chairman (I think). I know him well and will vouch for his integrity.
As 'one of Jim Perrin's mates', though not a BT judge, anyone with integrity would regard a fiddled result (for a mate, or anyone else) as acute disrespect for that person - as well as being wrong, period.
Many years ago, Joss Lynam admitted to an anti-Irish bias re the BT judging because he was Irish and the contender was an Irish mate. I argued against any bias, but at least Joss was, typically, doing his utter best to be fair-minded.
Show the BT judges some respect!
Mick
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> and if they're all Jim Perrin's mates, he might squeeze through.
>
> and if they're all Jim Perrin's mates, he might squeeze through.
Your remark is gratuitously insulting to the integrity of the judges. Steve Dean is the Chairman (I think). I know him well and will vouch for his integrity.
As 'one of Jim Perrin's mates', though not a BT judge, anyone with integrity would regard a fiddled result (for a mate, or anyone else) as acute disrespect for that person - as well as being wrong, period.
Many years ago, Joss Lynam admitted to an anti-Irish bias re the BT judging because he was Irish and the contender was an Irish mate. I argued against any bias, but at least Joss was, typically, doing his utter best to be fair-minded.
Show the BT judges some respect!
Mick
In reply to UKC News: Perrin's book is nothing less than brillient. If politics does not get in the way he should breeze the award....
In reply to UKC News: Warning:- Pedant Intervention!
Not 'Whose going to win?'
But
'Who is going to win?' or abbreviated 'Who's going to win?'
Thanks
Not 'Whose going to win?'
But
'Who is going to win?' or abbreviated 'Who's going to win?'
Thanks
In reply to Dee:
nice one...
The Ukc blokes cant do that gramar stuf but ey can driv a tractor!!
;0)
nice one...
The Ukc blokes cant do that gramar stuf but ey can driv a tractor!!
;0)
In reply to UKC News: I've read Cave and Perrin. Cave's book was more entertaining but probably won't read it more than once. Jim Perrins stuff is a treasure to be savoured with repeat readings.
In reply to Ands:
Thinking about it a bit more, and I am not sure of the exact B/T criteria (can't be bothered to read them at this time of night), I would say that anytime a Perrin book is entered he should win because he is head and shoulders the best writer, however Cave has written the more rounded, more complete book, because it is less ambitious,less contentious and has a begining, middle and end. Altogether a vintage year though.
> (In reply to Pedro50)
> [...]
>
> Actually more likely to have been a spellcheck correction which crept under the editor/s nose.
>
Absolutely, but that is why they have editors and proof readers, who should also have pointed out to Perrin that Mark Spitz only won 7 gold medals.
> [...]
>
> Actually more likely to have been a spellcheck correction which crept under the editor/s nose.
>
Thinking about it a bit more, and I am not sure of the exact B/T criteria (can't be bothered to read them at this time of night), I would say that anytime a Perrin book is entered he should win because he is head and shoulders the best writer, however Cave has written the more rounded, more complete book, because it is less ambitious,less contentious and has a begining, middle and end. Altogether a vintage year though.
I haven't read Fowler's book, but I wonder whether he took just 6 ice screws on the obviously-big-ice-line on Siguniang, so that they had a better story to tell?!
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
In your opinion. A number on here, myself included, think it is a fine book beginning to end.
Iain
> (In reply to Pedro50)
>
> Cave's excellent book has a very good beginning and end, but no middle.
>
> Cave's excellent book has a very good beginning and end, but no middle.
In your opinion. A number on here, myself included, think it is a fine book beginning to end.
Iain
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Less is more?
> I haven't read Fowler's book, but I wonder whether he took just 6 ice screws on the obviously-big-ice-line on Siguniang, so that they had a better story to tell?!
Less is more?
In reply to UKC News:
I've read all the books save for the Chamonix one !
For subject matter Perrin's is the most revealling but I got the feeling it was somewhat a labour for him to do and not as incisive and brilliant as Menlove (ie what was Whillans thoughts and feelings when his dad died - something which I thought Jim Perrin would have touched on given his previous reflections on Menlove) BUT a fantastic book nonetheless and given the authors prominence who the hell am I to argue ?
Andy Cave - utterly fresh and brilliant - nuff said !!
Broad Peak - Great read but subject matter not really as relevant in this day and age but it was nice to see the author seeking credit for the real hero's on Broad Peak and exposing one previously esteemed mountaineer in a different light (well for me anyway)
I think Cave will win but in any other year any of the above would have won.
PS. When is Jonny Dawes book coming out ???
I've read all the books save for the Chamonix one !
For subject matter Perrin's is the most revealling but I got the feeling it was somewhat a labour for him to do and not as incisive and brilliant as Menlove (ie what was Whillans thoughts and feelings when his dad died - something which I thought Jim Perrin would have touched on given his previous reflections on Menlove) BUT a fantastic book nonetheless and given the authors prominence who the hell am I to argue ?
Andy Cave - utterly fresh and brilliant - nuff said !!
Broad Peak - Great read but subject matter not really as relevant in this day and age but it was nice to see the author seeking credit for the real hero's on Broad Peak and exposing one previously esteemed mountaineer in a different light (well for me anyway)
I think Cave will win but in any other year any of the above would have won.
PS. When is Jonny Dawes book coming out ???
In reply to Allan McDonald:
Oh, I forgot.
Mick Fowlers book is also great but not as humourous as his first but I reckon will probably come second or a close third !
Oh, I forgot.
Mick Fowlers book is also great but not as humourous as his first but I reckon will probably come second or a close third !
In reply to Doug:
No, no translation has won before, although the award is open to 'works of fiction, non-fiction, drama or peotry in the English language (initially or in translation)', so the time will inevitably come one day - if not this year. Sauvy's book is very good, I think. It takes properly 'getting into' but is very intensely written and interesting.
> (In reply to Craig_M) I imagine the Anne Sauvy book is a translation of her 'Secours en Montagne' - has a book in translation ever won the BT before ? (have any been in the final round before ?)
No, no translation has won before, although the award is open to 'works of fiction, non-fiction, drama or peotry in the English language (initially or in translation)', so the time will inevitably come one day - if not this year. Sauvy's book is very good, I think. It takes properly 'getting into' but is very intensely written and interesting.
In reply to tony:
Hopefully the judges will have read more than just the reviews!
As for 'Perrin's mates'... clearly don't know much about the panel this year either.
I think the jury is more likely to shy away from handing Jim Perrin the accolade he probably deserves, only to realise that, on closer reading, his is the book people will still be looking at in five, ten, twenty years' time.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Based on my not having read any of the books on the list and only having read reviews of three of them, I'd plump for Andy Cave. Then again, it does depend rather on who is doing the judging, and if they're all Jim Perrin's mates, he might squeeze through.
>
> Based on my not having read any of the books on the list and only having read reviews of three of them, I'd plump for Andy Cave. Then again, it does depend rather on who is doing the judging, and if they're all Jim Perrin's mates, he might squeeze through.
Hopefully the judges will have read more than just the reviews!
As for 'Perrin's mates'... clearly don't know much about the panel this year either.
I think the jury is more likely to shy away from handing Jim Perrin the accolade he probably deserves, only to realise that, on closer reading, his is the book people will still be looking at in five, ten, twenty years' time.
In reply to Tom Chamberlain: If they are, it will, IMO, be because of the subject matter (i.e. Whillans). The book itself is very flawed - fragmented, often tendentious, and silent on many important areas.
In reply to Tom Chamberlain:
I was speaking to Steve Dean earlier this evening (he is a v old friend and climbing partner of mine, and lives nearby), and he said he has now read the top runners no less than five times each - that is how seriously he is taking it. He gave me no clue as to the possible outcome, but it is clearly an unusually strong year. At this rate I suspect the final decision will not be taken (in time-honoured fashion) until the meeting at 10.00 am at the Alpine Club on Friday. I shall be there, as usual, for the Award announcement at 12.30pm. Always a great event, and a wonderful gathering of climbing writers.
I was speaking to Steve Dean earlier this evening (he is a v old friend and climbing partner of mine, and lives nearby), and he said he has now read the top runners no less than five times each - that is how seriously he is taking it. He gave me no clue as to the possible outcome, but it is clearly an unusually strong year. At this rate I suspect the final decision will not be taken (in time-honoured fashion) until the meeting at 10.00 am at the Alpine Club on Friday. I shall be there, as usual, for the Award announcement at 12.30pm. Always a great event, and a wonderful gathering of climbing writers.
In reply to Marc C:
Let me assure you, Marc, that not all the judges are 'Perrin's mates'.
Surely the areas Perrin was silent about, you must be relieved about, because most of the book's critics feel it is quite dark enough already?
PS. Leo Dickinson rang me at lunchtime in connection with the 25th anniversary photo exhibition I am compiling for the Kendal Mountain Film Festival this year, and he told me he has plans to make a film about Whillans based on a lot of material he shot over the years, including a long, previously unseen interview with Don. He wants to concentrate absolutely on the humorous, anecdotal side, and make a really entertaining documentary. He spent about an hour telling me some of the stories he has.
Let me assure you, Marc, that not all the judges are 'Perrin's mates'.
Surely the areas Perrin was silent about, you must be relieved about, because most of the book's critics feel it is quite dark enough already?
PS. Leo Dickinson rang me at lunchtime in connection with the 25th anniversary photo exhibition I am compiling for the Kendal Mountain Film Festival this year, and he told me he has plans to make a film about Whillans based on a lot of material he shot over the years, including a long, previously unseen interview with Don. He wants to concentrate absolutely on the humorous, anecdotal side, and make a really entertaining documentary. He spent about an hour telling me some of the stories he has.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: I don't really want to say any more about this book. The areas I'm referring to are e.g. DW's relations with his parents and his r/ship with Audrey. The latter is a good example of what I perceive as selective interpretation - Audrey describes their marriage as 'not always a bed of roses'...JP gives this a dark interpretation...in contrast I was quite surprised at how touching DW's letters to Audrey were, and I think many of us married folk would (hand on heart) say their lives together weren't always a bed of roses and mean nothing much by it!
PS Lep FDickinson's film sounds a good project.
PS Lep FDickinson's film sounds a good project.
In reply to Marc C:
I agree that Don's relations with his parents were inadequately covered. Re. his relationship with Audrey, I was mightily relieved just how carefully JP steered clear of that subject ...
I agree that Don's relations with his parents were inadequately covered. Re. his relationship with Audrey, I was mightily relieved just how carefully JP steered clear of that subject ...
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I'm not surprised Steve Dean has been re-reading so much. This year the books are not only strong, but hard to put in order because - apart from the two autobiographies - they differ so greatly in subject matter and in style. I suppose putting one forward as winner will always seem a shame for the others. Of course, there have been years with joint winners, but that always seems a cop-out!
I am also glad that JP managed to skirt (sorry!) DW's relationship with Audrey. Any more focus on that would have meant 'missing the point' of what a biolgraphy on Whillans should be about: the climbing for goodness sake!
As it is, I think JP doesn't say quite enough about DW's alpine climbing career. But it still stands out from the pack, to my mind.
I'm not surprised Steve Dean has been re-reading so much. This year the books are not only strong, but hard to put in order because - apart from the two autobiographies - they differ so greatly in subject matter and in style. I suppose putting one forward as winner will always seem a shame for the others. Of course, there have been years with joint winners, but that always seems a cop-out!
I am also glad that JP managed to skirt (sorry!) DW's relationship with Audrey. Any more focus on that would have meant 'missing the point' of what a biolgraphy on Whillans should be about: the climbing for goodness sake!
As it is, I think JP doesn't say quite enough about DW's alpine climbing career. But it still stands out from the pack, to my mind.
In reply to Tom Chamberlain:
Your viewpoint is clearly v close to mine on this. And yes, all these competitions are necessarily absurd, because the judges always have to compare unlike with unlike. But, as you say, they must NOT cop out and give a joint prize. They really have to decide which, on balance, is the greater book, which is the best written, best crafted, most important i.e. which of the five contenders really will stand the test of time. Everyone is delighted, though, that it really is such a strong contest, with such a good shortlist, this year.
Your viewpoint is clearly v close to mine on this. And yes, all these competitions are necessarily absurd, because the judges always have to compare unlike with unlike. But, as you say, they must NOT cop out and give a joint prize. They really have to decide which, on balance, is the greater book, which is the best written, best crafted, most important i.e. which of the five contenders really will stand the test of time. Everyone is delighted, though, that it really is such a strong contest, with such a good shortlist, this year.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I was neither relieved nor disappointed, but puzzled. One of the reasons given for the long delay in writing the book was that Audrey was still alive, and yet there was nothing in there that could not safely have been published before her death.
> I was mightily relieved just how carefully JP steered clear of that subject
I was neither relieved nor disappointed, but puzzled. One of the reasons given for the long delay in writing the book was that Audrey was still alive, and yet there was nothing in there that could not safely have been published before her death.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Just bought the Andy Cave book today. Looks very interesting.
But that obviously posed picture of him reading Solzhenitsyn's 'Cancer Ward'... what on earth was he thinking of?
Just bought the Andy Cave book today. Looks very interesting.
But that obviously posed picture of him reading Solzhenitsyn's 'Cancer Ward'... what on earth was he thinking of?
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
I allways feel that it is a bit of a cop out kointly awarding prizes to people
I allways feel that it is a bit of a cop out kointly awarding prizes to people
In reply to Jamie McPherson: That should read jointly
In reply to Jamie McPherson:
Actually the decision was very warmly received by almost all those present - almost a gasp of relief went round the room, and both the winners were very happy about the decision, fully appreciating that the other's book was equally worthy of the award. Jim Perrin was particularly magnanimous, saying that he was so happy that he had not been the sole winner, because he thought Andy's book was so good.
Actually the decision was very warmly received by almost all those present - almost a gasp of relief went round the room, and both the winners were very happy about the decision, fully appreciating that the other's book was equally worthy of the award. Jim Perrin was particularly magnanimous, saying that he was so happy that he had not been the sole winner, because he thought Andy's book was so good.
In reply to UKC News: As I said previously I thought Jim would cruise the award . Have not read Cave's book but as he shared this award with Jim it also must be a brilliant piece of work..Well done to them both
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