UKC

Chris Sharma has climbed a stunning new route on a giant granite boulder below The Chief in Squamish, B.C, Canada and has not only named it but given it a grade too.

Dreamcatcher takes a sloping hand rail across a forty degree overhanging wall which starts with a sidewards/backwards double dyno and finishes on microscopic crimps and another massive dyno.

Read more at:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to UKC News:

Who cares about Grit - it's nothing special .... get real

In reply to UKC News:

Couldn't find anything on the link to sharma/mclure "grade debate". Just a promo of people falling into water.

In reply to UKC News: Sounds quite a hard route!

PS The US use of 'send' ('Josh sent the route', 'No sends were witnessed') really irritates me. Grrrr

In reply to Marc C:

Load of crap ain't it. nasty American debasing of the English lingua

In reply to UKC News: And there was i thinking that UKC isn't a member of the sheffeild mafia. oh well... you guys should really get up onto some lakeland mountain crags sometime.

In reply to nz Cragrat: Yep, nothing special about grit. Total waste of time- avoid.

In reply to Chewbacca:

What like Dove, Flat, Raven Threshwaite, Scafell, Napes...climbed on all those in the last 6 months.

Not my news item BTW!

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Folk suffering from a sense of humour bypass?

In reply to nfa:


This comment is also misleading: McClure beat Sharma at the Petzl Roc Trip at Squamish. The Roc Trip format has a loose competition element with points awarded for various kinds of on-sight, red-points etc etc. At the Squamish event Steve McClure 'won' by onsighting or making a fast redpoint (not sure which) of a 5.14a (clearly very impressive) whilst Chris Sharma and some others were focused on trying to get the first ascent of this futuristic project, which he has now done, but three months after. To compare these achievements seems pretty meaningless.

As an aside, if anyone reading about Sharma's "stunning new route on a giant granite boulder" has a mental image of the Pebble or even the Bowderstone, think again. Each face of the Cacademon boulder is wider and taller than, say, the whole of Cratcliffe. It would be a major crag in its own right if it didn't have a 1500' wall just behind.

In reply to tobyfk:

Mick Ryan and his Ministry of Truth strikes again ?

In reply to Simon Lee:


Generally I like Mick's writing. But I am confused about his role with this site. He doesn't get a mention on the 'team and contributors' page?

In reply to Simon Lee: news seems fairly slack at the moment...

'two english men have climbed 8b+ after several attempts...'

In reply to tobyfk:

Its the spurious reportage given status by being in the news section that gets on my tits

In reply to Simon Lee:


Absolutely. August's 'unknown punter trips over large boulder in Irish bog' marked a definite low-point I thought ...

In reply to tobyfk:

On the contrary - the eco-vandalism involved in cleaning the boulder was very newsworthy

In reply to Simon Lee:

Indeed (lichens all around the world are boycotting guinness in protest). Though you must have learnt that from another website.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Dude, learn to click on the links then you'll learn the news behind the news, and I'm sure you are interested hence your comments. Like many if you had clicked on the Petzl Roc Trip link (this is the interweb....interactive and all that...two-way rather than print one way) you would have read,

"Steve McClure’s send of Patience 5.14a on his second try at Cheakamus on Saturday secured him the top position going into the bouldering element on Sunday. Sean McColl and Said Belhaj also performed well on routes, putting them far out in front of the pack. The women's field remained more grouped as several women shared "sends" of the same routes. As a result, women's overall point totals were generally lower than the mens, opening the possibility that a strong bouldering performance could win it for the women.

Also, keep in mind that Sharma worked his new project TLC (5.14d?) on the Kakademon Boulder (which he bolted with Trotter and Jordan Wright last Tuesday), but as he was unable to complete it clean, (we assure you it wasn't for lack of effort) he received no points"

Sheeeezzzz

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan:


Jesus Mick, could you be any more American?



P.S: When's climb like a girl part V out?

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Being a sucker for this sort of stuff I already knew all that. However, I can't find this on the (annoying) x1sports site:

check out the outakes in Mike Week's DVD Depth Charge, where Chris Sharma is involved in a heated grade debate primarily with Steve McClure.

Did you in fact mean the out-takes on the DVD itself? (Of which I am guessing you have a freebie preview copy?)

In reply to nz Cragrat:

No, Grit is special

In reply to Mick Ryan:

So why don't you write about the news behind the news rather than some rubbish loosely or misleadingly connected or entirely unconnected to the news ?

In answer to your topic - "McClure better?" - Hard to tell - and it is kind of an old fashioned and dare I say it unfashionable question anyway, outside serious competition climbing

Said what? Somebody's gotta send that to the b3ta funny names thing.

In reply to Simon Lee:

There's a good mix of News at

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

Alpine, new ascents, bouldering, Himalaya , sport, trad, events, media on media, celeb stuff, good works by climbers, access, BMC......some dry, some spicy, informative, thought-provoking, some of interest to all, some to a few. Some with links for you to explore if you wish, some without.

In reply to UKC News:
Link to photos of Sharma on the route, for those interested.
http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/initial.html

In reply to Billy De Kid:

Thanks - amazing-looking route.

jcm

In reply to Matt Wilson:

''P.S: When's climb like a girl part V out?''

Please dont encourage him, it was bad enough once.

However, more on Bishop etc would be rather pleasing