UKC

Dave Brown of Hot Aches (http://www.hotaches.com/) reports on a significant ascent by Scott Muir at Drylands, near Innsbruck, Austria

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

"The ascent followed just two sessions of working the moves and was in ‘comp style’, ie. no heel spurs on axes"

Wouldn't heel spurs be more useful on your heels than your axes?

In reply to Glen:
I think it means no heel hooking your axes i.e. no cheeky rests.

Stu

In reply to Glen:

Only goes to show just how contrived a passtime it is.

In reply to GrahamD: oh for gods sake dont be so cynical. Surely he deserves credit for doing it good style? good effort by the lad. Good to hear the brits are holding there own at a sport that definitely isnt ours. Nice one.

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: F*cking good effort Scotty boy. First M13 by a brit?! Maybe see you in Scotland this winter.

Ben

In reply to Ben Wilko: thats more like it!

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

why is this news worthy, but dave mac's new font 8b at dumby doesn't get a mention (bar a passing comment in the forums)?

ben moon's 8b gets written up why's it more special than dave's problem?

just curious with all that's been said on this site the last two weeks regarding the standard of climbing journalism and it's biasis, esp regarding the elite.

iain

In reply to catt:

Don't want to distract this thread from Scotts achievement but thinnk it's worth pointing out that there is no bias, this is free site that publishes what it's given. Do you really think UKC has roaming reporters at all climbing venues ferreting out news? Are you really trying to say that Dac MacLeod doesn't get his share of coverage in the climbing mags?

In reply to catt:

Hold your horses dude. It's not even 6am where I am and I'm busy writing reports.....Dave's is next OK.

Mick

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

The article title is misleading as it should say, 'Scott Muir Repeats Europe's Hardest SPORT Mixed Climb.'
Well done to Scott anyway.

Davie

In reply to catt:

Dear catt

Don't worry, when Dave takes young Scott up some hard trad route this winter, we will all hear about it.

Norrie

In reply to catt: course its bloody newsworthy, the lad repeats the hardest route of its kind in europe in very quick, good style. I'm pretty interested in that!

In reply to Tyler:

well done to scott as well, i'm happy that he flies the flag for us. but i just asked a couple straightforward questions.

in answer to yours.
1. no off course not. i never inferred that at all.
2. yes he does. i didn't insinuate that either.

In reply to I am the God of Strathyre:

Dear God

Give the Yank a break, at least it is not a boulder problem for a change.

Norrie

In reply to GDes:

I'm sure its a fine physical achievement but I still find it a very contrived activity. I wouldn't have a clue what constituted 'good style' (seems to define what you can, or cannot, aid with ? )

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

great. everybody chill out! i think you took my tone the wrong way.

i didn't say scott's climb wasn't news worthy. i asked a question, prompted by comments made on the various ben heason / rich simpson threads, about climbing journalism and coverage. maybe i worded it badly but then i don't care much for english. no offence was intended to anyone.

iain

In reply to Norrie Muir:


Less of the Yank Norber, I'm English. Although like a Yank I will add that my grandfather Ryan was Liverpool Irish, my other grandfather a Culligan from Cork, and my grandmother a MacLeod.

In reply to catt:

Dear catt

One thing about young Scott's climbs, they are well documented.

Norrie

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

And my old man's a dustman.

Davie

In reply to Norrie Muir:

absolutely, which is a good thing. i don't doubt scott's climbing ability one little bit.

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: well done Scott superb effort. Goes to show we dont actually need bolted mixed venues in the mountains of scotland in order to climb europes hardest mixed routes.

In reply to Erik B:

Hear hear. Scott's good enough at getting the sponsorship so he should be able get funded to keep up his international profile without resorting to Hilti' ing the Highlands.

Davie

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

So you're British, rather tha English....

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: good to see aid climbing coming back into fashion...

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
whats with the chalk bag in the photo???!!!!

In reply to Erik B:

I couldn't agree more. Well done Scott.

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
>... my grandfather Ryan was Liverpool Irish, my other grandfather a Culligan from Cork, and my grandmother a MacLeod.

Hmm, two grandfathers, but only one grandmother, are you sure you're not from Norfolk.

(that was todays entry in the "how many people can be offended by one question" category).

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
I'm English. Although like a Yank I will add that my grandfather Ryan was Liverpool Irish, my other grandfather a Culligan from Cork, and my grandmother a MacLeod.

Dear Mick

You are more English than the Queen by the sound of it. So, if, your not a real Yank, are you a wetback?

Norrie

In reply to Ian Hill:

excactly what i thought.
glorified aid climbing in the cold.

In reply to mark s: idiots. is that what scottish mixed is too then? you bloody punters.

In reply to GDes:

Dear Ged

Some people think by top roping a route into submission, it is rock climbing, so they have a higher sense of righteousness than us.

Norrie

In reply to Norrie Muir: you'd almost think they were a bit narrow minded wouldnt you?

So Norrie, I know you dont approve of bolted mixed routes in scotland, and have a definite trad ethic, but whats your view on continental style mixed like this? impresive but not your cup of tea? I come from a strong trad background and onsighting is what i'm really into (mainly rock rather than mixed, but thats not the point), but i can still see that this is a fairly impressive feat. Just interested in your opinion

In reply to GDes:

Dear Ged

I admire young Scott's dedication to get to that level in Sport Mixed Climbing. These type of climbs should be climbed where it is acceptable - mainland Europe and North America. By nature, I am not easily impressed, that does not mean what young Scott is doing should be dismissed. I look forward to him putting up the hardest Sport Mixed Climb in the world, where it matters - mainland Europe and North America, so it gets it right up the locals.

Norrie

In reply to Norrie Muir:

i agree, its always good to get one up on those bloody continentals. However from an outsiders point of view its mildly interesting when he puts up a route like that in scotland, where it annoys the locals even more! having said that, i'm against bolts on scottish mountains.

cheers

Ged

In reply to GDes:
There is a big difference between annoying locals by stealing their hardest routes and annoying them by turning your back on ethics. This is a great achievement by Scott and from a personal point of veiw it's nice to see Scots (one 't') pushing the grades whether it be traditional or sport.

In reply to GDes:
However from an outsiders point of view its mildly interesting when he puts up a route like that in scotland, where it annoys the locals even more!

Dear Ged

Unless you know something I don't, Scott's Fast and Furious in Newtyle Quarry, which is nearest to what he has done abroad, never received any criticism worth bothering about.

If, you are thinking of Crossroads, then it can't be compared to Game Over.

Norrie

In reply to mark s:


my hairy bottom. where do you stand then on routes like prore and other snowed up rock routes done in ideal condition, i.e. cracks free of ice to make it easier to protect and hooking, torquing etc? Bolts don't mean Aid climbing. your argument should take us all back to step cutting.
whilst I can see it's a bit contrived as a sport it is climbing and as a means of getting to some of these huge continental icicles it looks amazing. I do what I enjoy and others do their thing and I'm happy with that.

very impressive and well done to Scott Muir.

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: What ?! Are they bolting ice routes on the continent and in Amerika now ? What is the point ?

Where has the committment gone ?

In reply to IPPurewater:
1 Wind up
2 Stupid

Please tick the apropriate number!

In reply to IPPurewater:
And before you say anything ....2 p's...

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

Well done Scott.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

I think you'll find the Queen's more German than English...

Good effort Scott.