UKC

RP?

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 JDSwain 01 Jan 2006
Just wandering what the hell RP's are and are Gyro balls worth getting?

John
 Luke01 01 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16: rp's are really good micro nuts that they don't make any more.
In reply to Swain16:

About 3 seconds on google found this: http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm

What's a gyro ball?
OP JDSwain 01 Jan 2006
In reply to 7lbs overweight: cheers, gyro balls are forearm exercisers
 Bob 01 Jan 2006
In reply to grit-addict:

Err, I think that they (Roland Paulick) do still make them it is just that they don't come up to the CE standard so shops here won't sell them anymore.

boB
 chris j 01 Jan 2006
In reply to 7lbs overweight:

> What's a gyro ball?

Google for powerball. Good fun for a couple of days until the novelty wears off.
 IOAN D 01 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16: RP's are the best micro wires of all, they fit in places that nothing else will fit. outstanding, bad news that HB went bust tho
 Moacs 01 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16:

1. Small brass micros that give the illusion of protection when you're actually going to die.

2. No. STFF

John
roblo 02 Jan 2006
In reply to IOAN D:

bad news that HB went bust tho

DMM have picked up HB's patents, see here for details

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=151802&v=1#2161565



NewCube 29 Jan 2006
In reply to roblo:

Re Gyros, check this out:

http://www.powerballs.co.uk/
 Martin 30 Jan 2006
In reply to IOAN D:
bad news that HB went bust tho

I was flicking through google the other day and came across this company http://www.hbclimbing.com/climbing_home.htm
is this not the original HB ?
 Alun 30 Jan 2006
In reply to chris j:
> Good fun for a couple of days until the novelty wears off.

Seconded - and almost completely useless as a specific aid for climbing training. There have been loads of previous threads on this that explain the reasons.
 Sean_J 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16: I got a Powerball for xmas, and play with it every now and then. My wrists don't make as many bad clicking noises as they used to, and my tweaked tendon is now much better. No idea how good they are for training for climbing though.
Nao 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Sean_J:
I've had a powerball for a while but I think it's more of a boy thing (the guys in the office loved it). Don't think it has significantly helped my wrist (broken a year ago).

I recently was bought a Metolius thingy http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/gripsaver.htm and that is meant to be better for the wrist, but I do find that it hurts a bit after using it.
 King Rat 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16:

RPs = Micro nuts, which hold about 3Kn, normal nuts hold12Kn or 14Kn I think. RPs will go in a crack that nothing else will, unless you start hammering pegs in. However 3Kn is a force, which you could quite easily build up in a fall. In other words on some blank faces they may be the only protection you can get but whether you would want to fall on them.

As for gyro balls, as far as I can see they are just a gimmick.
 Alun 30 Jan 2006
In reply to King Rat:
> RPs = Micro nuts, which hold about 3Kn

not quite right, they range is strength depending on size, the bigger ones are rated to 7 or 8kN, which will happily take a medium sized fall.
Lots of info far down the page here:
http://www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Mail_Order_Narrow_Crack_Protection_15....
James Davies 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16:

RPs are great and are still being made - these guys will post them out to you: http://www.chockstone.org/RockHardware/Order.asp
James Davies 30 Jan 2006
In reply to James Davies:

And do plastic hexes...
hill billy 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Swain16: As an alternative to RP's, Metolious astro nuts seem to do the trick. You can get them over here, but they are not rated for a fall
 Bob 30 Jan 2006
In reply to hill billy:

But they can/do hold - I have taken a 20ft fall (about fall factor 0.7) onto an RP#0 that held.

boB
 notgnarly 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Bob:
> is just that they don't come up to the CE standard so shops here won't sell them anymore.

The situation is slightly more complex than that.

RPs don't come with CE standard approval, they need to be tested first. You need an import licence for each batch of RPs that you want to sell. You can only get the import licence if the batch of RPs adheres to the CE standard. So the importer needs to test or arrange for testing each batch of RPs that they want to import.

This isn't economically viable now as people won't pay for the subsequent markup in the price of RPs with the range of other alternative micronuts now available
hill billy 30 Jan 2006
In reply to Bob: I bet that was exciting! I fell a few feeta bove a no. 2 wallnut and s**t myself

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