UKC

It's hard to ignore a "stream of real and imagined females and bizarre situations in which they are to be found in the fantasies of a middle aged mind." says Graham Gedge.

One way to banish these demons is a perfect day on Buachaille Etive Mor in winter following in the footsteps of Harold Raeburn. When you've got Big Game along, sharpened tools and good conditions it's all systems go.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=166

Thank you to Bill Maxwell and Chris McDaid for their excellent photographs.

With extra historical notes and useful links.

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: Nice article but 'the Buckle' ? arrrrgh

In reply to Doug:

I just sent Mick a mail suggesting we change that, too late!

In reply to Horse: If you make any changes you might want to look at "but he is sick of the site of the Alt a Mhullin "

I guess it changes a lot with conditions but sounds as if it was different when you climbed it from what I remember - from memory (going back to the late 70s) I only found two real pitches, a steep steep some 2 -3 metres high and the 'junction pitch which was 'mixed' with thin ice with rock showing through here & there. Memorable as it was my first winter route on the mountain & the first time I'd soloed anything as long/serious

In reply to Doug:

I think it does vary. The day we were on it the conditions were just about perfect all the way up the snow was nicely frozen and no doubt one could have run it it in about an hour. We took a more leisurely pace, had a right laugh and generally enjoyed ourselves. There were only two real pitches and both were quite short and although a bit lean and well used there were no rocks poking through the ice. For us bumbling mid grade climbers they were enough to make the really worthwhile.

I found it quite an atmospheric route passing through some good scenery and as you get higher up the vista outside the gully comes into play. This is most notable on the top pitches when you can see out of the gully and look over to see all the high peaks. Fantastic day out but we were blessed with perfect conditions, I wouldn't want to be in the thing in fresh snow or when the wind was pouring spindrift down it.

In reply to Horse:

Too late? Wot with modern tecknollogy?


Chris

In reply to Horse:

A lot more snow on it when we did it in the 60s. Only one really steep bit and step cutting on that was a bit hairy. Pegs were de riguer then, no decent ice screws available as now. Ten point crampons too with wooden axes.

It would be interesting for people to do it that way now and see how fast they could do it.

In reply to sutty:

Dear sutty

Two hours from hut to summit, climbing with a wooden shafted ice axe. We would have been quicker, but we stopped at the belays to roll a fag.

Norrie

In reply to Doug:

changed

In reply to Norrie Muir:

We were novices then Norrie, it was one of our big routes of the time. Also, we had not learned the advantages of squaries to help us get up things then.

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

1/2 only

In reply to sutty:

Dear sutty

I never was a novice, I was only young. I liked the route, so I have done it a few times since.

Norrie

In reply to Horse:

Nice article Horse!