UKC

In his third short thought-provoking article for UKClimbing.com Arno Ilgner explores 'expectations' and how they may hold you back rather than propel you forward.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/

You can read two of Arno's previous pieces at the Articles section of UKClimbing.com

Why are you taking a risk?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=136

Feeling Safe is Dangerous
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=128

"Whitesides Mountain, North Carolina -- Volunteer Wall (VI 5.10, A4-, or 5.12a). Whitesides is the crown jewel of southern rock. This routeoffers atmospheric ambiance on steep granite. A Climber's Guide to NorthCarolina, by Thomas Kelley."

Looks well cool. I can't have been the only one pondering the grade...

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

Thoughtfull - yes

But "They looked for ways to engage the challenge. In other words, they used present experience to look for things they could do that would help them understand whether or not it was possible." is an overlong way of saying they pre-inspected it!

A little to much like management spiel for me but that may explain why I hnever achieved my full inorganic medium scaling potential.

In reply to Paz:

The "Original Route" goes at 5.11a or 5.10 A0. It's about ten pitches, with a short 5.11 section (that has bolts every 4 feet) and a short 5.10 section. The rest is 5.8 or easier. For most leaders, the crux is the first pitch. It's 100' of 5.7 slab, with the only pro being a single rusty bolt about 70' up.