UKC

Not exactly great weather in the Peak yesterday for flashing E8's!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Blimey. Good work.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Watched hard grit (again) over the weekend and LH fell off a good number of times so more power to his elbow.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Your very careful with the terminology - he "flashed" it. Could anyone who has seen Hard Grit claim on onsight? How much info turns an onsight into a flash?

"Bransby's solo was done in typical nonchalant style whilst out walking his dog"

I feel quite sorry for the dog.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
That is keen - it was hailing at one point at Stanage Pole yesterday afternoon.

In reply to TobyA: Don't, the dog onsighted it.

Ben H set the standard by claiming a flash for that Roaches route Parasomethigorother after watching HG.

Is Ryan tall? Does look like a tall person would find it easier (no I'm not going to try to proove that!).

In reply to Richard Bradley:

I very much doubt Ryan as ever seen it climbed on a video. He always used to turn off or look away with routes he didnt want to blow the onsight with. I think the reason he is saying flash is he probably got someone to show him the moves. Just a guess, i might be wrong.

In reply to Richard Bradley:

He's not that tall, probably around the 6 foot mark.

Effort yoof, just got all the lancashire E8s to sort out now!

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Christ, there was me thinking we were the only people getting any climbing done in the Peak yesterday inbetween snow storms.

How wrong was I? Bloody amazing effort.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Simon Moore reports that Ryan had just seen young Paul Smitten headpoint it.

Mick

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

Well, there you go then....

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Good effort, was out walking along the top of Curbar and saw some lads on it. Must have made light work of it as when I walked back they were packing up...

In reply to TobyA:

Well either way its a fookin good effort! better than most!

Watchin on video doesnt make it any easier! i still wouldnt onsight an E8 just coz i seen some hotshot walk it on video!

Easy j

In reply to justin c: spot on me ode fruit

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Well done Ryan one day I must release that video of your
climbing birthday in wilton when you where 8 I think

In reply to GeoffM:

Some more details from Nigel at UKBouldering.com

"F*cking hell this got all over the internet pretty fast

If you are at all interested here's kind of how it went: We went out to Curbar on Saturday for Smitton and Ryan to try this but the weather was pretty uninspiring. In a break in the rain Smitton flashed it on a rope, making it look pretty easy in the process. Despite doing it a few more times and seemingly finding it impossible to fall off, it was bagged as too wet. Probably for the best as Ryan wasn't feeling too hot, having been out to Urban Gorilla the night previous.

On Sunday I got to the car park in sheeting hail at about midday, at which time the boys were getting pissed wrapped setting up the top-rope. Smitton spent a long time drying the holds out post-rain and then headpointed it after a couple more ropes. Pretty impressive in baggy One-Sports with hardly any rubber on! He then recleaned the holds for Ryan. After warming up on the only other dry bit of rock, which happened to be the undercut flake on Rat Scabies (!), Ryan tied on and did it no problems whatsoever. He looked pretty pleased on top, but it wasn't unseemly and there were no raised voices - very British.

Style wise, Ryan had watched Smitton top-rope it several times, and Smitton verbally pointed out a couple of nuances regarding footholds etc. They both did it the jump way (should that be "Leap of Faith" way in Ryan's case?), see Irish Si on Consumed for a taste of it. You wouldn't catch many people doing an unpracticed jump for a sloper even on a well protected route, never mind when the consequences of the fall are so painfully obvious Bear in mind as well that it started to spit while Ryan was laybacking the arete!

Talking in the pub the night before we were both astonished that when, like most climbers our age, you've been brought up on the Hard Grit phenomenon, and you naturally want to surpass the efforts of previous generations, a route like this was still waiting for an unpracticed ascent 20 years after first being climbed. In a way Ryan couldn't believe his luck that he still had a chance to make a longstanding dream come true.

A fantastic effort! "

In reply to TobyA:

Flash is succeeding on it, first time you are on the route, regardless of how much beta and what level. Hence the word onsight was not used. An exceptional effort regardless. Are you not impressed by the fact that it was "only" a flash?

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
a quite stunning effort, after all when flashing a route, yeah you get some hints, but you do not know how each hold feels or even if the beta from other parties is going to suit you and your body positions

good effort lad, not on to something completely tricky!

Parthian anyone??

Anyone got any pics of it, or was it filmed by any chance?

In reply to mark s:
Why thank you son!

Hope your good mr shazzer!

Easy j