UKC

Master of psyche, Nick Bullock has climbed Travesty (a summer E1) on Clogwyn Du, together with Mountain Guide Libby Peter (OK, quit the jokes about Nick being guided up it.... It goes at VIII 8 - that'll be the hardest winter route in Wales then. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: This is an amazing ascent - the most important Welsh winter route for the last 10 years!
Mick Pointon and Leigh McGinley had tried it in previous years, but never made it into the main chimney. It's funny, I saw Leigh this morning on Llanberis High Street and he was talking excitedly about the conditions, then I got home and there was a message from Nick on the answer machine.

There's more to come as well - there are still some major winter lines left to do on this awesome cliff.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Err.. "Clogwyn Du is the black crag at the top of the Glyders"

You mean Carnedd Ugain (Crib y Ddysgl) instead of the Glyders, right

Still though - well done to the team!

In reply to Jenn:


No it's the big crag in Cwm Cneifion below the summit of Glyder Fawr.

In reply to Simon22:

Ah - that would explain it!

In reply to Jenn:

I think there is more than one Clogwyn Du in the area so I'll let you off!

In reply to Simon22: Home of Hebenwi and Manx Wall. Very steep and atmospheric cliff.

In reply to Simon22:

Cheers

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Out of interest, does anyone know of any other female grade VIII ascents?

In reply to Glen:
Louise Thomas and Twid Turner on Scrabble in SCoNL VIII 7

In reply to Glen:

Ines Papert?

http://www.ines-papert.de

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

That site doesn't mention any Scottish grade VIII routes...

In reply to Glen:

or Welsh grade VIII routes for that matter.......

In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

Is there a separate grade system in use in Wales then?

In reply to Glen:


Not wanting to belittle anyone but the report does say she followed the crux pitch using aid and a back-rope, although obviously still part of a VIII team.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: still climbed it , got out and on with it, nice one libby

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

ines would have led the whole thing...

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Back in the 80's Chris Parkin led Flanders on the Black Ladders. It's 1000 feet long and was predicted in "Cold Climbs" to be one of the finest winter lines in Britain. Chris never got any credit for it (or his many other lines on the Ladders). If anybody manages to repeat it, I would be interested to hear what modern grade it gets given.

In reply to Steve Long:
I love the name too

In reply to Steve Long: I spoke to Chris today and he said that Dai Lampard had repeated it the day after he did it. For some reason I had got it in to my head that the original ascent occurred in the early 90s. Chris confirmed that it was late 80s and pointed out that they had not followed the summer route in its entirety, rather that they stuck sensibly to what looked like the easiest winter line.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Hey nick if your reading this thread, what I said still applies: I am opening a multidisciplinary centre in the middle of manchester on Deansgate to have Chiropractors, physios, rehab specialists a podiatrist and a GP. Youve got my card so if required give me a bell.

All the best, nice one with the new route!!

Iain

In reply to Simon Panton:

Small point - not 'the easiest winter line' - but 'the obvious winter line', quite tricky and a bit serious at times. Great day out with my top dog partner Dave O'Dowd who did his equal shear of leads on Flanders and Cannon Rib (winter)

Dia had tried Flandersthe day before us, then did it the day after us with Nigel Bonnet