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Experience is the best teacher. You can read books and go on courses to learn how to climb and get better, but there is no substitute for learning from your mistakes and successes. Matt Owen recounts a tale of climbing with two friends in the Peak and some lessons learned. Perhaps you will be able to relate.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=169
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=169
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
Gear ripping, again. Such a big issue in recent years.
It's good to post something that people can learn from, but I think THAT (i.e. the cruciality of placing good gear, whatever you're using it for) should have been highlighted as the main lesson.
I hope Evin is recovering well, and that things go safer in the future.
Gear ripping, again. Such a big issue in recent years.
It's good to post something that people can learn from, but I think THAT (i.e. the cruciality of placing good gear, whatever you're using it for) should have been highlighted as the main lesson.
I hope Evin is recovering well, and that things go safer in the future.
In reply to Fiend:
I just spent a good 30 seconds peering at that first picture wondering
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
Hold up, I'd better read the rest of the article.
I just spent a good 30 seconds peering at that first picture wondering
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
"cookie or beard"
Hold up, I'd better read the rest of the article.
In reply to Fiend:
Somewhat charitable. I too am glad his friend is OK, but it would appear to me that the main lesson is that some people are not suited to climbing, or that some people will write any old shite to get in print.
Crack and Corner? Sounded more like an ascent of the Eiger.
G
> the main lesson.
Somewhat charitable. I too am glad his friend is OK, but it would appear to me that the main lesson is that some people are not suited to climbing, or that some people will write any old shite to get in print.
Crack and Corner? Sounded more like an ascent of the Eiger.
G
In reply to Graham:
I'm almost tempted to write that you win today's prize prat award at UKClimbing.com Graham. But I'll hold back, as I haven't had a coffee yet and I'm sure I can come up with something more cutting with a bit of caffeine in my blood.
I'm almost tempted to write that you win today's prize prat award at UKClimbing.com Graham. But I'll hold back, as I haven't had a coffee yet and I'm sure I can come up with something more cutting with a bit of caffeine in my blood.
In reply to Graham:
Polished horror which is slippery enough to start in the dry; hardly a route to boost confidence on a cold damp day. Main lesson might be appropriate route selection.
> (In reply to Fiend)
Polished horror which is slippery enough to start in the dry; hardly a route to boost confidence on a cold damp day. Main lesson might be appropriate route selection.
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
I'll look forward to it, but mind what you swallow along with the coffee.
G
I'll look forward to it, but mind what you swallow along with the coffee.
G
In reply to Graham:
1,000 mg of Vit C and two cod liver oil capsules Graham. S'OK I've calmed down now. I know you were just joking.
> (In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com)
>
> I'll look forward to it, but mind what you swallow along with the coffee.
>
> I'll look forward to it, but mind what you swallow along with the coffee.
1,000 mg of Vit C and two cod liver oil capsules Graham. S'OK I've calmed down now. I know you were just joking.
In reply to Graham:
When I first read this I thought the main lesson was don't live in London if you want to climb a lot but having read the thread I'd say the most telling thing is that some poeple will whinge about anything. Did someone force you to waste time reading it? Did you pay an extortionate amount to have it on your PC? Prehaps we should get rid of any climbing content on this site and concentrate favorite tractor type threads.
When I first read this I thought the main lesson was don't live in London if you want to climb a lot but having read the thread I'd say the most telling thing is that some poeple will whinge about anything. Did someone force you to waste time reading it? Did you pay an extortionate amount to have it on your PC? Prehaps we should get rid of any climbing content on this site and concentrate favorite tractor type threads.
In reply to Tyler:
Thanks Tyler.
The last three weeks we have had three great articles by real people, with no sponsorship issues, talking about real experiences, all written from the heart and with a passion for climbing. All three carrying valuable lessons of achieving goals, learning and getting out there and doing it at whatever level you climb at.
They were sharing their experiences with others and I am proud that UKC gives a voice to all and not just a select few.
Mick
Thanks Tyler.
The last three weeks we have had three great articles by real people, with no sponsorship issues, talking about real experiences, all written from the heart and with a passion for climbing. All three carrying valuable lessons of achieving goals, learning and getting out there and doing it at whatever level you climb at.
They were sharing their experiences with others and I am proud that UKC gives a voice to all and not just a select few.
Mick
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
Yep, got rather scared on that crack and corner at the weekend. And in the dry...
Thought it would be easy after the first move. Went for what I thought was a chalked up jug. Then realised the 'chalk' was snow....and the 'jug' was a little crimp...
Didn't fall, but was glad of the bomber cam below me!
Yep, got rather scared on that crack and corner at the weekend. And in the dry...
Thought it would be easy after the first move. Went for what I thought was a chalked up jug. Then realised the 'chalk' was snow....and the 'jug' was a little crimp...
Didn't fall, but was glad of the bomber cam below me!
In reply to Horse:
Hardly a route to boost confidence on at any time!
> Polished horror which is slippery enough to start in the dry; hardly a route to boost confidence on a cold damp day
Hardly a route to boost confidence on at any time!
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
I'd have thought the main lesson would be to choose a crag appropriate to the weather :-|
I'd have thought the main lesson would be to choose a crag appropriate to the weather :-|
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
Good read. Its good to relate to real life, close to home stories.
Good read. Its good to relate to real life, close to home stories.
In reply to chadz4:
I reckon they could have avoided incident if they'd have gone with a proper guiding company!
I reckon they could have avoided incident if they'd have gone with a proper guiding company!
In reply to Horse: a route for rock climber as opposed to wall monkeys
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: Yeah quite funny. The last time I climbed it on new years eve it was pissing down, windy and freezing. We had to do combined tactics to start it and I was almost sick my hands were so cold. It was good fun!
In reply to Tyler:
Southern Fairies. A bit of polish and rain ?. Next time they should check out Stoney (it's marginally closer to London is it not) ....
Southern Fairies. A bit of polish and rain ?. Next time they should check out Stoney (it's marginally closer to London is it not) ....
In reply to Horse:
It wasn't raining and it wasn't too cold. Maybe the lesson is where to stop to place gear. If he'd waited for the massive ledge just above and left of the belayer's head in the accompanying photo, the whole chain of problems (false start, fall, stuck nut, fracture) wouldn't have happened.
> hardly a route to boost confidence on a cold damp day. Main lesson might be appropriate route selection.
It wasn't raining and it wasn't too cold. Maybe the lesson is where to stop to place gear. If he'd waited for the massive ledge just above and left of the belayer's head in the accompanying photo, the whole chain of problems (false start, fall, stuck nut, fracture) wouldn't have happened.
In reply to Witkacy:
If you are going to start arguing the toss at least get the quotes right.
I didn't say it was raining but the article did say, quote:
"...cold damp and miserable...."
and what did I say?
There are several references to things being on the chilly side for example:
Quote "...my hands were freezing..."
Quote "...my fingers were frozen like claws.."
Maybe I am wrong but I had the impression the author was trying to convey the idea that it was a cold day or at least he was cold. I have had another look but couldn't see any reference to the climbers breaking out in a sweat or reaching for the sunscreen. Perhaps you know better?
Certainly not a route I would like to do on a "cold damp" day.
If you are going to start arguing the toss at least get the quotes right.
I didn't say it was raining but the article did say, quote:
"...cold damp and miserable...."
and what did I say?
There are several references to things being on the chilly side for example:
Quote "...my hands were freezing..."
Quote "...my fingers were frozen like claws.."
Maybe I am wrong but I had the impression the author was trying to convey the idea that it was a cold day or at least he was cold. I have had another look but couldn't see any reference to the climbers breaking out in a sweat or reaching for the sunscreen. Perhaps you know better?
Certainly not a route I would like to do on a "cold damp" day.
In reply to Horse:
Been a hard week has it?
I agree, his hands were cold! Just pointing out that all the problems detailed in the article relate to that first low nut. Fingers like claws? He also says that first nut is 3m up, so clearly there's a touch of exaggeration.
Been a hard week has it?
I agree, his hands were cold! Just pointing out that all the problems detailed in the article relate to that first low nut. Fingers like claws? He also says that first nut is 3m up, so clearly there's a touch of exaggeration.
Thanks for taking the time to read the article and for all your comments.
Yes it was cold (maybe 5C plus windchill), it varied from dry to drizzle to rain and to snow. Not ideal conditions, but frankly I've climbed harder routes in worse.
For me the whole thing was a learning experience.
Though I should say that for me the main lessons for the day were:
The importance of conserving energy when climbing - the route was relatively easy, the way I climbed it made it difficult.
Correct gear placements - the friend would've taken a downward pull, it came out from an outwards one.
Retrieving gear - needs no explanation.
Thanks again,
Matt
Yes it was cold (maybe 5C plus windchill), it varied from dry to drizzle to rain and to snow. Not ideal conditions, but frankly I've climbed harder routes in worse.
For me the whole thing was a learning experience.
Though I should say that for me the main lessons for the day were:
The importance of conserving energy when climbing - the route was relatively easy, the way I climbed it made it difficult.
Correct gear placements - the friend would've taken a downward pull, it came out from an outwards one.
Retrieving gear - needs no explanation.
Thanks again,
Matt
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
Hand up who's never had a day like this?
He's not a professional writer; he's a climber who wrote about an experience he had at a climbing crag where he was, errmm... climbing. And we're reading it on a climbing site (most of us when we should be doing something else.)
Made me smile (in a grim "that sounds familiar" way) at any rate.
Hand up who's never had a day like this?
He's not a professional writer; he's a climber who wrote about an experience he had at a climbing crag where he was, errmm... climbing. And we're reading it on a climbing site (most of us when we should be doing something else.)
Made me smile (in a grim "that sounds familiar" way) at any rate.
In reply to Witkacy:
No.
I am more inclined to agree with the author with respect to the cold and damp.
No.
I am more inclined to agree with the author with respect to the cold and damp.
In reply to Witkacy:
Not much exaggeration (maybe a little).
The first gear placement you can see in the photo is not the nut in question- a wee physcological runner placed after the first fall.
The main nut is at least 3 metres up: Luca - the belayer is about 1.9m tall, the photo's taken from an angle below him, which makes the nut appear lower than it actually is.
But hey, you're absolutely right - big lesson in how to place your gear. But actually I'd tend to say more of a lesson in being aware of foot placements.
Not much exaggeration (maybe a little).
The first gear placement you can see in the photo is not the nut in question- a wee physcological runner placed after the first fall.
The main nut is at least 3 metres up: Luca - the belayer is about 1.9m tall, the photo's taken from an angle below him, which makes the nut appear lower than it actually is.
But hey, you're absolutely right - big lesson in how to place your gear. But actually I'd tend to say more of a lesson in being aware of foot placements.
In reply to MattOwen:
Fair enough. There's a dilemma of whether to gain the big ledge or stop to place the nut in a strenuous position.
Maybe the lessons are:
- warm up properly, especially the hands, which always take a while to warm up in the cold
- it's not worth risking injury to retrieve a stuck nut
Fair enough. There's a dilemma of whether to gain the big ledge or stop to place the nut in a strenuous position.
Maybe the lessons are:
- warm up properly, especially the hands, which always take a while to warm up in the cold
- it's not worth risking injury to retrieve a stuck nut
In reply to Lbos:
Evin did, quite painfully.
> (In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com)
>
> I didn't get the point of that at all.
>
> I didn't get the point of that at all.
Evin did, quite painfully.
In reply to KeithW:
Yes, its sounded familiar!
I thought it was an honest article by someone that was committed enough to drive up from London for the day, and acknowledge that they got somethings wrong.
If there was any regret that they had wasted a day in the hills, then it wasn't shown.
Matt, I'm sure next time you and your mates come up this way, you will have an even more enjoyable time.
UKC, long may such small, personal articles continue.
Jeff C.
Yes, its sounded familiar!
I thought it was an honest article by someone that was committed enough to drive up from London for the day, and acknowledge that they got somethings wrong.
If there was any regret that they had wasted a day in the hills, then it wasn't shown.
Matt, I'm sure next time you and your mates come up this way, you will have an even more enjoyable time.
UKC, long may such small, personal articles continue.
Jeff C.
In reply to Witkacy:
Completely agree with you.
Completely agree with you.
In reply to MattOwen:
Lessons:
1) Put a handwarmer thing (about £1 for one that lasts all day i nan outdoor shop) in your chalkbag.
2) The best way to retrieve gear is to let your second hang about for ages until they get it. It wont have been lubricated by the time you set up an ab. If they cant get it out eventually, then either you're incompetant at placing it, or they are at getting it, or probably both.
3) Crack and Corner is a shit route.
Lessons:
1) Put a handwarmer thing (about £1 for one that lasts all day i nan outdoor shop) in your chalkbag.
2) The best way to retrieve gear is to let your second hang about for ages until they get it. It wont have been lubricated by the time you set up an ab. If they cant get it out eventually, then either you're incompetant at placing it, or they are at getting it, or probably both.
3) Crack and Corner is a shit route.
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:
Ha! I had a similar mini-adventure on that route this time last year; first climb of 2005. Fell off before I'd put any gear in, then found I wanted some big chocks and had to tie off whilst my belayer ran off to get some to throw up to me. Too much rope-drag meant I had to miss out the last moves, and when I got to the top I'd lost my belay plate and my second found it halfway up the climb.
If everything went right every time life would be boring. Thanks to Matt for sharing that, and for being self-confident enough to laugh at yourself. I like people who can do that and I hope the bloke's foot got better quickly.
And thanks Mick for publishing good stories by ordinary people.
Ha! I had a similar mini-adventure on that route this time last year; first climb of 2005. Fell off before I'd put any gear in, then found I wanted some big chocks and had to tie off whilst my belayer ran off to get some to throw up to me. Too much rope-drag meant I had to miss out the last moves, and when I got to the top I'd lost my belay plate and my second found it halfway up the climb.
If everything went right every time life would be boring. Thanks to Matt for sharing that, and for being self-confident enough to laugh at yourself. I like people who can do that and I hope the bloke's foot got better quickly.
And thanks Mick for publishing good stories by ordinary people.
In reply to Si dH:
Chalkbag???
Chalkbag???
In reply to Alison Stockwell:
Every man and woman is a star.
> (In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com)
> And thanks Mick for publishing good stories by ordinary people.
Every man and woman is a star.
In reply to Si dH:
It is not!
It is a route of great character with some brilliant climbing best easy route on the crag.
PS you only say it is shit because you are.
> 3) Crack and Corner is a shit route.
It is not!
It is a route of great character with some brilliant climbing best easy route on the crag.
PS you only say it is shit because you are.
In reply to MattOwen:
Yep, put one of those handwarmers in your chalkbag, makes a huge difference to climbign on grit in the cold, really good.
Yep, put one of those handwarmers in your chalkbag, makes a huge difference to climbign on grit in the cold, really good.
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Thank you, gave me a laugh.
Thank you, gave me a laugh.
In reply to Si dH: I had that idea earlier in the year. I was climbing something that should have been easy at stanage ( Leaning buttress crack), but my fingers were so cold I couldnt feel them and i couldnt tell if i was holding the jug or not. It almost got very messy. Thats when i had the ace idea of digging out my old chalk bag and putting some hand warmer packs in it. I havent tried it yet, but Im glad to see it works.
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: Nice wee story! That crack and corner was my introduction to gritstone not last summer but the summer before (on 2nd). I fell off at the start, got all muddled higher up and was nearly greeting by the time I got to the top, hehe!
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