In reply to oakapple:
OK, beta alert....
Take a small cam, Friend 0. Take a Friend 0.5 in case I'm wrong. Stick this in a horizontal crack before the crucial traverse right before the black-streaked slab.
Also take a thin tape for the spike, and some tiny RPs.
A Friend 4 would actually be useful, as a weight to hold the tape in place.
I'm not really sure about your concept of Beta for the onsight !???!