UKC

Really want to do this route , any good? I have heard that the crux is the finishing moves . is it deckable? and how is the gear?

thanks
ioan

In reply to IOAN D: I want to try and work this as well. Had a good look at it the other day. I think that you would probably miss the deck just about. Maybe double up a single rope to reduce rope stretch. It would be a nasty fall sliding down the slab though.

Maybe worth putting a mat on the boulder at the bottom incase you fall to the left and bounce of it.

Only the finishing moves looked particularly difficult, but there was a decent hold at the top to enable a "thank god" lunge to be made.

In reply to IOAN D:


Why do you really want to do this if you are not sure if it's any good or not? Apparently not 'deckable' but close I'd imagine. The last move is the crux and easier for the tall.

In reply to IOAN D: ive got a video clip of this, but i cant remember where i got it from. perhaps beardown productions?

In reply to Oli: yes i have seen photos of it and its one of those thank god jugs! Planning to go and try it end of this month, hopefully a cool day! it will be my first time to burbage as well . how is the landing on it, i guess a typical gnarly gritstone one!!

In reply to alpkid: Its the very last part of a Gritstone Year by beardown, after the credits. (How sad is it that I know that?)


Meanwhile has anyone got any beta on it, before it stops raining?

In reply to IOAN D:

The gear is some good cams in the HVS crack. They are pretty low however and you wouldn't want to fall off! The crux is at the top, you have to make about two moves off a poor pocket and reach for a massive jug. Probably easier if you are tall, I am 6 2 and found it pretty steady - I was seconding though! Seemed alot easier than Pebble Mill.

Stu

In reply to IOAN D: If you fall straight down ok. But if you fall to the left, see earlier reference to bouldering mat. As the boulder to the left will reduce the fall zone by about 2-3m.

In reply to alpkid: beardown have got vid of Equilibrium which is a nice vid. The guy doing it makes it look really easy.

And careful Oli. If you stick a mat down then some will have you up on breaking climbing ethics charges.

In reply to Oli: Makes me want to do it more!!! so i guess the moral is DONT FALL OFF!!

In reply to willhunt: I don't care tbh. I'm going to be headpointing it anyway, so it can't get any worse.

In reply to IOAN D:

With regard to the landing there is a large pointly boulder at the bottom and a horrible gully thing to the right, both potential landing places! I wouldn't plan on falling off. I hope you plan to onsight it?

In reply to stu: i solo'd this a fair few years back.the crux is pretty much the last move to a good jug at the top and there is a trickyish step up move just below the last move.i think E5 6a is more realistic a grade.from the top it is deckable imo but it depends on the speed of your belayer.you wont really hit the boulder to the left unless you slide in to the start crack and lurch off leftwards but still it wont be a nice fall!


rich

In reply to beastofackworth: I think overall, its a do not fall off, but if you do you probably won't die...

In reply to stu: yeah way easier than pebble mill and not as scary imo.you can get gear inthe top of the crack too.i originally tried to lead it and got a cam in the bottom of the crack and a hex and about 4 wires in the top of it which seemed pretty good.i kept bottling the lead so solo'd it instead lol


rich

In reply to willhunt: What in your mind is best sticking to ethics and wrek your body in a fall or sticking a mat down and extending your climbing career? Its only a route in the end ,plenty more better ones out there. and as long as you get up it clean, ground up doesnt make any difference.

In reply to beastofackworth: Ah. Was that your comment on the RF database?

Good effort to solo it.

In reply to stu: yes hopefully i am a purist when ground up onsigting routes is in question. hate redpointing

In reply to Tyler:


Very good point.

In reply to IOAN D:

Good man! the moves are very onsightable, even I flashed it whilst seconding and I can't even do The File!

Good luck

Stu

In reply to IOAN D:

Headpointing! Grrrr.

In reply to IOAN D: Trust me Im no purist. So long as your having fun on the route then you can do as you please imo. If you look at my guidebook then Im only a top roper at the min. Going to do trad in the summer.

In reply to willhunt: That should say logbook

In reply to willhunt:

Why mention it then?

In reply to Oli: like i say oli i dont think its more than E5 as its really only 1 move and soloing it and leading it arent really any different apart from maybe psychologically having a rope.

you wouldnt really want to fall of though cos the slab will spit you backwards away from the good flat landing area.dont think a mat would help that much unless its the one under the wave at the foundry.

think i commented on the route in the rf database.

think the hardest grit route i have lead is an E4 but below that my next hardest is an E2 then a few E1,s but i have on sight solo'd a few E4's and E3,s.all my harder grit routes have been solo's as my gear placing is poo lol



rich

In reply to Oli: ahhh. Dont have a go. I just remembered reading something in preposterous tales where they refused to stick a mat down becuase apparently it was "not a boulder problem". imo if theres groundfall potential then mats are a bit of a must. Have fun doing the route and dont do yourself in!

In reply to stu: yeah its easier than the file.its easy to onsight on a top rope but dont know anybody who has onsighted it leading/soloing but its not really that hard.would say its easier for the tall.


rich

In reply to beastofackworth: Excellent. It will be a first 'hard' route/project for me, so nice to know that it is a bit soft touch and easier for the tall.

I've done the file, does that mean that I'll piss it?

In reply to willhunt: theres no point thinking about how ethically good you are when laying in a hospital bed with 2 broken legs is there?lol

ive no problem with mats,headpointing ect.
you climb a route the way you want to as its your life on the line


rich

In reply to Oli: well i pissed life assurance and i cant touch the file lol
tbh mate dont use it as a long term project cos you will do it the day you toprope it if your good in the head and trust your feet.
one tip if your gonna top rope it first-try the last move in different ways i.e.static right hand,lunge right hand and finishing with left hand.pretty sure i did static with right hand but was lunging on top rope.
will come and belay you if ya like,i can run fast btw lol


rich

In reply to beastofackworth:

I would think it has has quite a few onsights? The mate who I seconded onsighted it. As you say, onsighting on a top rope is very different to doing it on the lead!

Stu

In reply to IOAN D:

I did it as my first grit E6 when I was Uni when I was desperate to do an E6 but wasn't very good/strong at climbing really (I headpointed it). Although I would like to treasure it as I was happy when I did it at the time, it's not really that good a route to be honest. But then again if it inspires you then definitely go for it! Good luck!

PS. Someone has fallen off the crux (survives and not badly hurt) and gear is bomber in the bottom crack

In reply to stu: really buzzing to do try it it would be a great tick for me straight after my gcse's , its a prezzie of my mum a 4 day trip to the peak!! as i am from llanberis way i only get an odd day in the peak each winter, but its a brilliant place. I think its the mysterious feel about the moors and the dark rock??

In reply to beastofackworth: lol. Thanks for the offer. According the gritlist its F6b+ on toprope which seems reasonable.

Try various last moves for when you end up leading it and mess up the preplanned sequence and have to ad lib?

In reply to stu: Jordan onsighted it (on the beardown vid)

In reply to andi_e: In boreals too

In reply to Oli: im shite with french grades so couldnt comment but its not hard at all just 2 delicate moves well above gear.


rich

In reply to andi_e: yeah on the subject of his rock shoes.......what are they? they look to me like pink anasazi's with yellow laces? but you say they're boreals? he climbs alright in 'em anyway!

In reply to IOAN D:
If I were you I'd forget it. I wuldn't come all the way from lanberis to do it, its a one move route (and not even that good a move). There are much, much better routes to do in the Peak. Go to Stanage or High Tor and you will have a brilliant and much more memorable time.
Graham

In reply to IOAN D: i suspect you'll not even manage to get off the ground.

In reply to andi_e:
Give it a go mate, it's definitely one of the nicer big fall E6's. The moves aren't that hard once you've plucked up the courage to do them, if you're gonna headpoint it you'll piss the last moves.

In reply to Steve Ramsden: Not sure, some old school boreal ones.

In reply to andi_e: Well, he usually wears boreals nowadays, but they are in fact Anasazis with yellow laces...

In reply to andi_e: Well, he usually wears boreals nowadays, but they are in fact Anasazis with yellow laces...

You sad man...

Peak is looking a bit drier now so may get on it at the weekend or next week.

In reply to Paul P:


cos its E5!winks



rich

In reply to beastofackworth:

If it wasn't my only E6 onsight I'd probably agree with you on the E5

In reply to IOAN D: If you need to ask, don't do it!

In reply to Paul P: you should agree anyway cos it is E5 lol.what grade does it get in the new burbage guide?they still given it E6???



rich

In reply to beastofackworth: I don't want to know if it has been!

Hopefully will be getting on it tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

In reply to Oli: good luck for the onsight.

In reply to Jon Greengrass: Unfortunately I feel I will be ethically impure.

In reply to Oli:

Why bother?

There are plenty of good easier routes around if you can't do this one.


Remember there is always the choice to not do something.


Fiend.

In reply to Oli: believe me i've done it, its a one move wonder. theres heaps better routes to top-rope

In reply to Anonymous:


Because its a well overgraded E6 man. Sheez

The same reason that the Aardvark and the Ferret is so popular with Bristol sixth formers, knock it down to E5 and no one would touch it.

In reply to Anonymous: Because it looks quite a nice route, that is doable, but not something that I would probably ever be able to/want to onsight.

In reply to Oli:

Oh come on, there's no shame in picking a route because it's soft for the grade but don't try and kid on that you've chosen this one for any other reason.

In reply to Tyler: I didn't actually realise that it was soft for the grade until this topic/looking at the RF database. Not that being a soft touch is a bad thing...

i think I liked it because it looks easy from the bottom

In reply to Oli: have you done charlies crack?

In reply to Jon Greengrass: No, but I might do it beforehand and have a look at LA from it.

In reply to Oli: good idea its probably the crux.

In reply to beastofackworth: It's still E6 on Rockfax though

In reply to Paul P:

Yes and Banana Wall is E4.

In reply to Tyler: exactly,i though la was E5 and that banana wall was E3.what grade does were only here for the smear at rivelin get now?originally E4 5c,me and mate who onsight solo'd it thought about E1/2 5b max.



rich

In reply to beastofackworth: Where is only here for the smear? Its not in the RF guide.

In reply to beastofackworth:
E4 5c

Agree that the technical crux on LA is the start!

In reply to beastofackworth:

Only here for the smear E1/E2??! You gotta be joking! Maybe above a pile of bouldering mats... All grit routes grades are sans mat IMO

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: well we didnt use any mats and it felt piss and not particularly scary or commiting.would say E2 max,no way is it E4!!!


rich

In reply to beastofackworth: Where at rivelin is it? I only have the RockFax and i don't think it is in there.

In reply to beastofackworth:

Ok yes, I would agree that's it's not E4 (and if it is - then it's nice easy tick!) but I would say easy E3, hard E2. Harder and more dangerous that Long Johns, easier than Canoe, Kayak etc, but worse fall.

Whatever it is, it's great one to do if you're not up for doing a hard E4! And come to think of it, it does make "I'm Back" feel hard in comparison.

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: the day i os solo'd it i did the same on im back,the brush off,reprieve and boulder club.
im back is miles harder than wohfts and long johns slab is harder too imo!!


rich