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a first E1

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 carriegold 03 Jun 2006
I'm going on a coaching course in a couple of weeks and have been asked to compile a list of leads I'd like to do. Either Peak grit or limestone. I have the rock fax books so I can use the lists in the front of those but wondered what you folks out there thought were nice first E1 leads....

ta
C
 andi_e 03 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: Cent (but that's not in rockfax- it's next to a route that is... It's to the left of Boyd's Crack (p. 101, Eastern Git))

My first E1 was Kirkus's Corner. A boulder problem crux leads to some run-out padding, brilliant.
OP carriegold 03 Jun 2006
In reply to andi_e: oh no not Kirkus's Corner! <sob> tried that as a second abt 3 years ago and just couldn't do the move that Chris Craggs is doing on the front of Eastern Grit.

<runs and hides in shame>
 andi_e 03 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: Really? That's the easy bit, you've already done the crux by then!

When I did it, i bridged up the groove just right of CC on the fornt cover.
OP carriegold 03 Jun 2006
In reply to andi_e: sorry - it was the crux that I had problems on.

Like the Cent idea tho - can just abt recall that one - series of horizontal breaks? say 3?
 IOAN D 03 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: The best thing is when looking for your first climb of a higher grade than you are used to climbing is if it is a well protected climb and that the climbing is not super steep and strenuous. For instance a slabby gritsone climb"three pebble slab" at froggat- but usually they have not mutch in the way of protection and can be found quite bold for an introduction to the E grades. Long tall sally at burbage south is a common first E1 lead. Doing a first E1 on limestone in my opinion isnt the best thing to do untill you are quite confident on E1 ground elsweare as some of the protection can be quite fiddly and hard to find- but saying that it helps to develop your gear finding skills.
good luck

ioan
 Oli 03 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: Three Pebble Slab, purely because its really just hard HVS.
OP carriegold 03 Jun 2006
In reply to Oli:
> (In reply to carriegold) Three Pebble Slab, purely because its really just hard HVS.

have seconded it a few times - it's one of my fav routes of all time. have tried to lead it in the past but couldn't move above the gear. Head is in better condition these days.... it's top of my list
 CENSORED 03 Jun 2006
In reply to Oli: It's E0

 Oli 03 Jun 2006
In reply to CENSORED: Alright, I'll concede that it is well suited to E0.
 Alex1 03 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:

Do original route at high tor only HVS but awesome. (Then go and do a grit E1 for comparison)
 A Crook 03 Jun 2006
In reply to Oli:

yeh but bloody bold.
 Oli 03 Jun 2006
In reply to balti boy: Compared to Motorcade, which gets the same grade, it feels HVS.
 A Crook 03 Jun 2006
In reply to Oli:

never done it. Long tall sallt burbage north.

E1 if you are 6foot plus tall E2 if you are short as like me.

like the body bag bouldering mat by the way.
 Oli 03 Jun 2006
I didn't find long tall sally that bad, but as you say, it is easier for the tall/long armed.

Strange bag bouldering mat type thingy was a bivvy bag...
 Padraig 03 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:
"I'm going on a coaching course in a couple of weeks and have been asked to compile a list of leads I'd like to do. Either Peak grit or limestone. "

Have you compiled a list yet? I mean it's gonna be your first E1!! Shouldn't it be something YOU wanna do??

P
OP carriegold 04 Jun 2006
In reply to Padraig: still working on me list - have been climbing a number of years so have a pretty good idea of what's out there but just wanted opinions to see if there was anything i'd overlooked. So far no one has disagreed with what was on me list.

ta
C
 Andy Hobson 04 Jun 2006
In reply to IOAN D:

Don't talk sh*te. Choose a climb that plays to your strengths. If slabs aren't your thing then there's not much point trying one as a first E1, is there?
 Andy Hobson 04 Jun 2006
In reply to Oli:

> Three Pebble Slab, purely because its really just hard HVS.

Middling to soft HVS actually. You haven't done many HVSs if you think this is hard. CMC slab is at least a tech grade harder and that's HVS.

 Skyfall 04 Jun 2006
In reply to Andy Hobson:

I'd agree TPS is probably around middle HVS but am not sure CMC is really a tech grade harder. I felt they were about the same. Sundowner (also 5a) felt tech harder to me than both.

 Oli 04 Jun 2006
In reply to Andy Hobson: CMC slab is supposed to be HVS with siderunners, I believe.

Not technically hard, but TPS is quite runout for an HVS.
 hoseyb 04 Jun 2006
In reply to Andy Hobson:

What Ioan was saying was to pick something your physically capable of (not too steep or streneous) and enough gear so you don't hurt yourself (Not too bold). Long tall sally seems a good choice. TPS may not be, especially If you've seconded it loads.

Some limestone is fiddly for protection, but not all, Try Nancy Whisky in Dovedale, a beaut of a route.

hose
 Cragdog al 04 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: ratline at birchen should fit the bill.
good gear, 1 5b move at the gear.
remember to pick a good one dont do a crap one just for the sake of it.
strapiombante would be good as well bomber gear just a bit strenuous. clean the finishing holds first.
 Pauline 04 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: My son did shivers arete ( seconded) on friday at Wilton 3! It looked ok...and it is an E1...buggrit hangs head in defeat!
 andi_e 04 Jun 2006
In reply to Pauline: I soloed that last night. Good route.
In reply to hoseyb:

Actually Yew Tree Wall nearby would be a very good idea - safe, easy and very pleasant. Harder for the weak-fingered.

On grit I always suggest Gullible's Travels or Easter Rib. I believe mine was Canoe, back in the day.

Cent is a single 5a move above a fall where a mere broken leg would be a very good result. Possibly not ideal.

jcm
 UKC Forums 04 Jun 2006
This thread was started in the wrong forum and has now been moved.
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 kevin stephens 04 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:

Left unconqurable would be a goot choice. Safe but feels committing

I believe one's first route of the next grade should be middle/top of grade for greatest benefit to overall progress
 Skyfall 05 Jun 2006
But why always grit ffs. So much more to go wrong it always strikes me. Like decking.

Can think of loads of E1's on volcanics which are better bets. Might face a bit of a fall but less nearly terminal.
 kevin stephens 05 Jun 2006
In reply to JonC:

not wrong, but read the OP!
 Mark Stevenson 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: For some reason the two most common first E1 leads on grit seem to be:
Long Tall Sally, Burbage North
Strapiombante, Froggatt

Neither are particularly soft touch. There are plenty of other good routes around. Namenlos and Nuke the Midges at Stanage are low in the grade. Flying Buttress Direct is fine if you like roofs or feel strong. Embankment 4 at Millstone is safe as houses.

Best thing to do is look at http://www.rockfax.com/databases/graded.php?area=1 then read the comments on the easier E1s

M
 Skyfall 05 Jun 2006
In reply to kevin stephens:

lol - yes, I did overlook that hey
 Skyfall 05 Jun 2006
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

You don't really want your 1st E1 to be a soft touch do you..?

But, yes, if you want soft touch and are ok on slabs, I would say...TPS and Namenlos.

Strapiombante is probably pretty desparate as a 1st E1 though very safe. I think I was on speed as I clawed my way over the top.

Long Tall Sally is just no way a good E1, despite what the old guidebook said. And I doubt it is done that much as 1st E1. It's quite technical and the gear is pretty cr@p in the upper half making it quite bold. Lovely route mind.
 Mark Stevenson 05 Jun 2006
In reply to JonC: Agree completely. They are both dreadful first E1s by any sensible measure. However, Strapiombante was my first E1 lead (second attempt) and Long Tall Sally was my first E1 onsight.

To be honest when it comes to grit E3s and E4s I've got absolutely no problems starting with the soft touches. I'm going to make dman sure I don't get on something is really more like E5!

Oh, TPS would have been my first E1 but I completely chickened out of making the move.
 hutchm 05 Jun 2006
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

Another softish touch Stanage E1 - Morrison's Redoubt - little boulder problem up to a break, stuff that full of gear and the rest is easy.
 John2 05 Jun 2006
In reply to hutchm: There are some good, not too difficult E1s at Staden Quarry - Bicycle Repair Man, Charas (used to be HVS).
 Cragdog al 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: yeah i think its best not to pick an easy one just so you have done E1 pick a middle way one with 3* that youll remember and play too your strengths
 Jenn 05 Jun 2006
In reply to andi_e:
> My first E1 was Kirkus's Corner. A boulder problem crux leads to some run-out padding, brilliant.

Ohhh - I really want to try that one! The gear for the crux seems great - I like nuts!
 simonp 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:

I would also recommend Strapiombante. It's an honest E1 which should be q. safe. Long Tall Sally is actually quite insecure with fiddly gear and TPS is not one to try unless you're absolutely sure you won't fall off. Dark Continent and L. Unconquerable are both good one's too. Easter Island on Ilam Rock is a good outing on the Limestone.
Anonymous 05 Jun 2006
In reply to simonp:
Dark continent looks nails. Are you sure it's a good 1st e1?
 hutchm 05 Jun 2006
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to simonp)
> Dark continent looks nails. Are you sure it's a good 1st e1?

It's 5c! I'm sure someone can find a non-soft E1 5b...

 simonp 05 Jun 2006
In reply to Anonymous:
> Dark continent looks nails. Are you sure it's a good 1st e1?


Looks can be deceptive! The crux is actually a good rockover move with gear by your waist, although it's quite a long reach. Similar in style and only slightly harder than Ginny Come Lately (Good Friday).
 slacky 05 Jun 2006
One route that hasn't been mentioned which I enjoyed when I led it was Death, Night & Blood (E1 5c with direct start, which is really just a boulder problem, 5b otherwise).

Wouldn't recommend Cent myself, as to my memory it was more a solo, albeit relatively easy for the grade.
 GrahamD 05 Jun 2006
In reply to simonp:
> (In reply to carriegold)

>Easter Island on Ilam Rock is a good outing on the Limestone.

For quality of climbing, George is a lot better.

 Oli 05 Jun 2006
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to hoseyb)
>
> On grit I always suggest Gullible's Travels or Easter Rib.

Gullible's Travels wouldn't be too bad, but I don't remember the gear being that good before the crux move. It is only one move though.
 Si dH 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:
If you just want a very soft-touch peak E1 then Left Edge Slab at Rivelin is the easiest I've done. However, the following were better and quite easy for the grade:

Namenlos
Pegasus Rib
Millson's Minion
Mississippi Variant Direct
Kirkus' Corner

All good rotues and you could do them all in a day
Iggy_B 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold: Limestone seems easier than grit, St Paul/Peter (?) at Stoney is very straightforward.
 Mal Grey 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:
Cent was my first E1, almost by accident. A bit of a one move solo really, quite bold but not techinically difficult. Not a particularly brilliant route.
I nearly fell off Long Tall Sally due to reach & major hangover. A little lacking in gear high up but an excellent route.
Namenlos was my 2nd E1 & first one "planned" (cent was spur of the moment). Its relatively straightforward but feels quite bold. The difficult moves aren't sustained.
If you don't like slabs with little gear I'd steer clear of all of them!
 Mark Stevenson 05 Jun 2006
In reply to various: As always, it's interesting how people find routes...

I onsight soloed Blood Night and Death but didn't solo Left Edge Slab on two trips to Rivelin despite climbing Left Edge both times. I need to remember that it isn't that bad and to do it next time I'm there.
 JLS 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:

re: three peeble slab

Spend as long as it takes on the slab problems on the Lone Boulder at Stanage Plantation. With that behind you and clean sticky shoes 3PS will feel like a walk up stairs (only easier).

Long tall sally didn't feel too hard either but the crux of Kirkus Corner requires a bit of a cranking which my waist to arm ratio didn't allow me to get first go.

In short, I rekon working on gaining confidence in friction climbing is a short-cut to E1 climbing that doesn't require a lot of training... but I does feel like cheating a wee bit.
 robw007 05 Jun 2006
In reply to carriegold:
I always do Millsoms Minion and Easter Rib early in the year. However although the climbing is reasonably straightforward both have 'sequency' bits and run-out bits. Starting Millsoms (although the HVS Billiard Buttress starts up here too) and the bit in the middle on easter Rib are a bit run-out - but ok if you stay calm and work them out.
Not sure why the rockfax team chose to put Kirkus Corner on the front cover - good lead for the time but a rather unbalanced route and not particularly photogenic.
 robw007 05 Jun 2006
In reply to Iggy_B:
Yep - its a soft one. We love to do Rippemoff - its a great route - very cruxy on the first pitch but really well protected (peg above your head) and then a mega stance in the middle of nowhere - with a straightforward but beatifully positioned top pitch at 5a.
Also Dead Banana is a classic - once again cruxy but well protected (used to be HVS along with a few hundred others!).
Hey lets start a Stoney revival (on second thoughts lets not - its never busy and you get to choose to do any classic route on any day of the week!)
EmV 05 Jun 2006
In reply to IOAN D: Long Tall Sally is called that for a good reason. Don't touch it with a barge pole if you're under 6 foot.

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