UKC

Great routes in the lakes ....

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Removed User 13 Jun 2006
What would be your highlights... any grade?
 robw007 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:
central buttress, moss ghyll grooves - scafell
prana - black crag
bitter oasis - goat
but we live in sheffield so don't get up to the lakes much (enough?!)
 Fiend 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

My favourites:
(Sort of in order too!)

White Noise, Reecastle
Guillotine, Reecastle
Finger Flake Finish, Reecastle
Ten Years After, Hodge Close
Between The Lines, Hodge Close
Anvil Arete, Tilberthwaite
Aphasia, Sgt Crag Slabs
Glass Slipper and everything else, Black Crag
MGC, Sheperds Crag
Whit's End Direct, Gimmer

That's all I can think of. Need to do more evidently.
 Bob 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Saxon, Scafell
White Wizard, Scafell
Lord of the Rings, East Buttress
Bridges Route, Esk Buttress
Footless Crow, Goat
Gates of Delerium, Raven, Thirlmere
Nimrod, Dow
Astra, Pavey Ark
Bowfell Buttress (summer and winter)
Kipling Groove, gimmer
Hiraeath, Dove
One Step Beyond, Gowther Crag
Top Gear, Raven Threshthwaite
Eliminate A, Dow

And the list goes on.....

boB
 robw007 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Bob:
forgot about Astra and the Hodge Close routes - see don't go enough!
Removed User 13 Jun 2006
In reply to robw007:

"Don't get up there enough" .... my thoughts as well ... Just seems to be an area of the UK that I have little knowledge of, consequently few aspirations and therefore I seldom visit.

Thanks for the ideas, I'm hoping to be inspired !
 Fiend 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

I think too many climbers these days have forgotten that there is climbing outside of Peaks / Wales / Pembroke / Portland....
Removed User 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Fiend: Not necessarily a bad thing. I think you could climb all your life in Wales and still be finding new inspiring things to climb ... having said that it's good to spread things around a bit !
 stu 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Bob:

What's the gear like on One Step Beyond? I fancy giving it a go this summer.

Cheers

Stu
 Mikey_07 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

I'll slap you...every route in the lakes is great. With exception to Eliminate A on Dow Crag...that ain't great, That's f*cking devine. God himself must have put that one up.
Removed User 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Mikey_07: Sounds like you should get to Wales a bit more !!
 Alan Stark 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Where to start -- but particular favourites of mine have to be (in no particular order)

Overhanging Bastion, Zig Zag and Direct Route
Troutdale Pinnacle, The Shroud
Fools Paradise
F Route
Eliminate A
Corvus
Eve
Spinup
Rake End Wall
Gordian Knot
Delilah
Gillercombe Buttress
Gadzowt and Merry Monk (Lazonby -- ok its Eden valley but a great wet weather alterativve to the Lakes)
Bowfell Buttress
C Ordinary
The Crack
Samson

i could go on.........
 Mikey_07 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Never been to Wales...I prefer scotland.
In reply to Removed User:

Moss Ghyll Grooves
Tophet Wall
Haste Knot
NW Arete/Kipling Groove
F Route
Overhanging Bastion
 Tony the Blade 13 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

GFI... my one and only ever in the world E3 6a (it was when I did it, but was subsequently down graded to E2 6a)
 Andy Hobson 14 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Murray's Route (S)
Eliminate A (VS)
Bowfell Buttress (VD)
Kipling Groove (HVS)
NW Arete/F Route (VS)
The Red Edge (HVS)
Whits End Direct (E1)
Laugh Not (HVS)
Gordian Knot (VS)
Pluto (HVS)
Overhanging Bastion (VS)
 NickJH 14 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:
And some more:

Cruel Sister E3(Pavey Arc)
Capella E1(Pavey Arc)
The Cayman E2(Napes)
Eqqus E2(Gimmer)
Philistine E1(High Crag)
Eagle Front VS(Eagle Crag)
Palestinians E1(White Ghyll)
Murrays Super Direct E2(Dow Crag)
Banzai Pipeline E1(Greatend Crag)
The Bludgeon E1(Shepherds Crag)
Aaros (Shepherds Crag)
 stewart murray 14 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Not forgetting ...
The Centaur and Mickledoor Grooves - Scafell East Butress
Oxford & Cambridge Direct - Grey Crag, Buttermere
Engineers' Slab - Gable Crag
South West Climb - Pillar
 KeithW 14 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Agree with all who suggested Eliminate A - I did it last Saturday in the sun (though it was blowing a hoolie near the top). Sustained, varied and just hard enough, for me.
 cathsullivan 14 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User: I particularly enjoyed Giant's Crawl (Dow Crag) and Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (Black Crag, Borrowdale).
 Skyfall 14 Jun 2006
In reply to cathsullivan:

Troutdale Pin Superdirect is probably the best route on the crag, IMHO Certainly superior to the Direct - but they are all good!
johni 14 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User: The mortician is fantastic
In reply to JonC: black crag is ok. lots of good *** from S-E3. done quite a few. none are particually specail except for troutdale pin, which is spoiled imo.

top routes in the lakes.

none! there all shite, the lakes is shit place to go to climb it is always wet you never ever evar want to got there especailly on bank holidays - garenteed rain!

agree with all the sugestion so far, that i have done.

except for gimmer crack which is pish!
Allister Clark 14 Jun 2006
In reply to The Great Pretender: yep all the routes are crap, stay away from the lakes, it always rains and every route hes -3stars






more for me to play on!!
 cathsullivan 14 Jun 2006
In reply to JonC: Superdirect is too hard for me just now. Will look forward to it though!
In reply to Allister Clark: i know shite! amazingly i was at black crag on saturaday and it was empty! was evferyone wathcing the footy?
Allister Clark 14 Jun 2006
In reply to The Great Pretender: i was on wallabarow, crag to ourself, nobody at ulpha bridge...brillant!
 Skyfall 14 Jun 2006
In reply to cathsullivan:

No worries, I worked my way up through them too. When you have done the Superdirect you will know you have arrived at HVS !
 slacky 15 Jun 2006
Agree with Eliminate A, superb route and setting.

Sargent Crags Slabs has some wicked routes on it Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a if memory serves) is superb.

Raindrop on Black Crag was great fun as well.
In reply to Removed User:

No one appears to have mentioned Adam - a top banana route - the best at Shepherd's IMO.
 sutty 15 Jun 2006
In reply to O. C. Curmudgeon:

I think so as well, hard enough but not too hard. Makes Conclusion look like a scruffy quarry type climb.

Another good short route is the Direct on the South Crag at Castle Rock, steep, good holds and keeps the interest for lots of the way.

On A buttress on Dow, Arete Chimney and Crack is good for lower grade leaders, as is Gordon And Craigs route. In fact most of the routes on A buttress are worth doing, a rare thing on a crag. The exceptions are well marked in the guide.
 Andy Hobson 15 Jun 2006
In reply to sutty:
>
> On A buttress on Dow, Arete Chimney and Crack is good for lower grade leaders

Forgot about that one - I dropped a quickdraw from below the crack and it didn't hit anything on its way down - can't be many routes at MS with that sort of exposure!

This thread is making me homesick for the lakes...
In reply to O. C. Curmudgeon: adam is rubish compared to eve, conclussion, areos and ardus.
 Andy Hobson 15 Jun 2006
In reply to The Great Pretender:

Shepherd's is rubbish compared to Dow.

I can't think of a single route there which doesn't have an infinately superior counterpart somewhere else in the Lakes.
 Carolyn 15 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:

We seem to be missing High Crag Buttress - fantastic belay stances, and a great climb. Though better not climbed as a group of 3......
 Fiend 16 Jun 2006
In reply to stu:

> What's the gear like on One Step Beyond? I fancy giving it a go this summer.

Pegs look good. As the guidebook says you're pretty close to the top peg on the crux. There's very little apart from that except...


<BETA>


A sliding nut backs up the top peg perfectly.


</BETA>


...anyway, will add that to my list, along with another obvious classic, and one of the few multi-pitch routes I genuinely enjoy:

One Step Beyond, Gowther
Prana, Black Crag
Pluto, Raven Crag
 Si dH 16 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User:
Well, my favorites from a week's trip (just returned) were:

Little Chamonix Vdiff, solo at sunset
Botterill's Slab VS
Mandrake HVS
The Mortician HVS
Preying Mantis E1
Central Buttress E1
The Go-Between E2

I enjoyed everything I did though
 Andy S 18 Jun 2006
In reply to Removed User: In no particular order:

Sky, Hodge Close Quarry F6b+
Night of the Hot Pies, Cathedral Quarry E1 5b
Do Not Direct, White Ghyll Crag E1 5b
Darklands, Cathedral Quarry E3 5c
Crocodile Crack, Great Gable HVS 5a

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...