UKC

How to train for F9a+

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 Tom Briggs 29 Jun 2006
Over the last couple of weeks, Steve McClure has been doing some grim link-ups at the Tor (see news), as well as repeating Progress (now F8c+) at Kilnsey and Northern Exposure (Dunning's F8b+ he previously on-sighted). It's all in the name of training for his desperate project at Malham. Got Steve!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Adam Lincoln 29 Jun 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Whats the proj at Malham?
OP Tom Briggs 29 Jun 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Sorry, that should have said "Go Steve!"
Simon22 29 Jun 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:



Bored of doing laps on Mecca! That easy for him eh!

Where is his Malham project?
OP Tom Briggs 29 Jun 2006
In reply to Simon22:

A "mental thing" above Overnight Sensation.

Ste also has a project at Kilnsey, which is the extension of Northern Exposure. Northern Exposure is Dunning's "1/2 route" on the North Buttress, not the route above Sticky Wicket (apologies for that confusion!)

Though Ste has just become a father, so maybe that'll slow him down?!

John Cook 29 Jun 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Steve Mac only on-sighted the top half of Indian summer. As Im sure he will tell you he ran laps on the bottom half of the route prior to his ascent. This does make a difference although it is still a mega effort.
cheers
 Matt 29 Jun 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

What happened to gaskin's desparate project he was trying there for the last years - has everyone given up on it?
In reply to Matt:

Ben Roof 8b route grade?? Er whatever.....
OP Tom Briggs 29 Jun 2006
> (In reply to Matt)
>
> Ben Roof 8b route grade?? Er whatever.....

Traditionally, Powerband was given F8b and that's only 13 moves long. Not sure about Ben's Roof, but I guess that's about 10 or 11 moves. The meat of a route such as Pump up the Power (F8a+) is about 8 moves, so it seems Font/V or routes grades all make some sort of sense.

In reply to John Cook:

I doubt doing a F7b whether or not he has it wired even warms the blood vessels in Steve McClure's arms. But whether Indian Summer is F8b+ a la Mecca is another question (that has been posed by those who might climb at that level i.e. not me!)



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