UKC

going to stanage tomorow and fancy trying a few e1s so i thought id ask the all knowing ukc ..
whats the best e1 on stanage ?

In reply to pauldr:

Morrison's Redoubt?

In reply to Rid Skwerr:
Tippler / The Link

Morrison's Redoubt / Mississippi Variant Direct are really both one move wonders plus a bit of nice climbing, but not proper 3*.

Going to Mississippi Buttress and ticking all the E1s in the area is a great day out!

In reply to Pythonist: cheers 4 that .. did mississippi var last week that was brilliant

In reply to pauldr: Easter Rib is a harder bottom half. Make sure you have a 00 friend for the crux.

I'm told Kelly's Overhang now gets E1. Flying Buttress direct in a similar vein.

Ben

In reply to pauldr:
Jeepers Creepers. Fantastic problem!

In reply to Smelly Fox: thats been downgraded to hvs now i think

In reply to pauldr:
The Unprintable
The Vice

In reply to pauldr: flying butress direct, without question

In reply to pauldr:

Good question, actually. Kelly's Overhang, Flying Buttress, Jeepers Creepers, The Vice and the Unprintable are all HVS - way too hard to be E1 - and none of the others mentioned would make the top ten (have these people actually been to the edge, I ask myself?).

My memory is probably going, but I offer Desperation and Anniversary Arete. Oh, and Dark Continent.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'd have though the Tippler, Dark Continent, Left Unconquerable, Desperation and Namenlos would make my top 5 E1's at Stanage.

In reply to craig h:

A pretty good short-list. I'd give it Left Unconquerable.

Mick

In reply to craig h:

Namenlos is never E1, but I had of course forgotten The Tippler and LU. So put Anniversary Arete (you done this? rather fine, and lonely compared to most of the edge) in and we might be getting somewhere near a consensus (?!).

I also have a soft spot for Pedlar's Rib. Anyone know the story? Who was the pedlar - or was it that Pedlar's Slab was done first and named for the usual pedalling at the bottom?

jcm

In reply to Mick Ward:

Millsom's Minion - great climbing up a fine buttress, good gear where needed, low in the grade - a corker!

Chris

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Pedlar's Slab - FA Barry Pedlar - amazing eh?

Chris

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Anniversary Arete is good, but Tower Chimney is better, and I would replace Namenlos with this good honest tussle.

I also have a soft spot for Pedlar's Rib and the Slab, both are feel good routes.

In reply to pauldr:
Hmm - 'best'

Easy (for the grade)- Easter Rib, Millsoms Minion
Pumpy - Flying Butress Direct, The Link, The Unprintable
Bold - Acheron, Namenlos
Plain Classic - The Tippler, Left Unconquerable
Hard - Dark Continent, Desperation

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Haven't done it - mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!

Mick

In reply to pauldr: It's a long time since I've done any E1s at Stanage and my memory is a little hazy of those I did before but here's my thoughts.

I agree with the above posters on Millsom's Minion, The Tippler and Left Unconquerable. All very fine routes. I'd probably put LU at the top.

Where's Anniversary Arete? The name is ringing a bell, but I can't place it.

One that springs to mind that hasn't been mentioned is Count's Buttress, I seem to remember enjoying it very much.

In reply to pauldr: kirkus corner, seemed quite good from what i recall

In reply to El Greyo:
In the great wasteland between High Neb and the plantation, rarely visited.

Nice route, but there's something a bit awkward and off-balance about it to make it 'the best' in my book. Boringly, I'd say Left Unconquerable also, of the ones I've done.

In reply to pauldr:

Left Unconquerable
Tippler
Wuthering

Haven't done (to my shame) Flying buttress Direct, but looks fantastic.

J

In reply to Chris Craggs:

My vote for the best would be for Millsoms Minion with Left Unconquerable and The Tippler coming in a close second.

Also, worth honorary mentions not yet quoted are: Pigs Ear, Missisipi Variant, Incursion & Serenata..

Some cracking routes...

In reply to Derbyshire Ben:

I would say Orangutan and Left Unconquerable are pretty excellent. Although LU would get my vote if it came to crunch.

Headbanger E1 5c would be my first choice (by a long way) for best E1 micro-route. Flippin' awesome!

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Isn't Pedlar's Rib HVS, or is that Pedlar's Arete?

In reply to galpinos:

Pedlars Slab?!

In reply to pauldr:
The Tippler.

In reply to Yorkspud:

The slabis HVS 5c, then there's the rib/arete to the left. I climbed it on the left stepping right at the end (as described by my second/guidebook reader) and was under the impression this was HVS 5a. I'm now keen to find out if it's gone up to E1 (which would be a bit ridiculous).

In reply to pauldr: Vice and Unprintable both harder than Quietus,so not E1.When did anyone last see an ascent of Unprintable?Dangler is done more often than Unprintable because it's easier. PM

In reply to pauldr: I know it's a bit obscure for Stanage but I have to go with the suggestion of anniversary arete...proper moves above gear