Here is my 2 peneth. Grades are a funny thing. They are always only a guide, yet many people seem to take them as gospel. They appear to be some peoples only driving force, as well as a means to bitch and belittle others achievements. Overall, in my opinion, people should not get too hung up on them.
Equilibrium is hard, and it is dangerous. Neil G's 9 falls were off the low crux, Neil B's fall was off just above this and he brushed the pads. There is another set of hard moves another meter or so up the arete with the last hard move being a slap to a good pocket way above where anyone has fallen off. I didn’t downgrade it purely because I didn’t think I needed to. It took me around 4 days effort (longer than any other Grit route so far), and felt like a step up, both physically and mentally from the other Grit routes I have done. I also chose not to use Bouldering pads as I feel that even a single pad, would make a huge difference to a fall from the upper arete. Granted, the climbing was technically a long way below my limit, but that doesn’t really mean anything in relation to the grade of the route. When I climb bold routes, I know there is very little chance of me falling off. Climbing at your limit, in a dangerous situation is pretty crazy and, forgetting about your own life, I think disrespectful to your friends and family, who may be left to pick up the pieces, literally.
As for the other proposed E10's:
I have not been on, or even seen in the flesh Dave’s hard routes north of the border, so cant comment on them. From pictures and video, they look hard.
I have looked at Divided years from the floor, and my friend has tried it, commenting that he thought it was probably E7/8, hardish but very safe. However, with all routes in mountain locations, the remoteness needs to be taken into account, when proposing a grade.
Breathless looks like quite tricky climbing. There is also a "new" peg near the top (apparently not there on the first ascent) which would make it slightly less bold. Again, this info comes from good friends; I have not actually been on the route.
Rewind used to be a sport route called Blue Sky Lightning (fr8a). It follows an obvious line of weakness through a large roof. Very suspect rock, with hard to place poor protection (sounds inviting doesn’t it!) Mark claims to have lead the route on pre-placed gear and then later on to have climbed the route ground up, placing all gear on lead. The only trustable gear comes near the top, falling before this will probably lead to a 90ft groundfall into boulders!!!
Dr Doolittle probably has not been repeated because it is a complete non-line. I tried it a few years ago, solely after the E10 experience (I was young and number hungry). The climbing is not that good with the line wandering all over the wall, almost like it takes the path of most resistance. The protection is also pretty good. Overall, it is probably a poor E8/9
BlindVision, is essentially, a V10 boulder problem, to a ledge (big enough to put your harness on, have a picnic, dance, sleep etc etc), to an E7. I cant see how this link-up could be considered any harder than E8ish. This has probably not been repeated since cold dry days are precious and there are far better lines to try.
Hopefully this will have answered a few questions, and no doubt created a few more. If anyone wants to contact me, you can email me through UKC or through my blog @
http://pearsonclimbing.blogspot.com
Take it easy
James